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11020372711 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11020372711
1 - 15 of 25

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Loud grinding noise when the washer was in use.
69 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from STARKVILLE, MS
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.

open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate

2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.

3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.

4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.

5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.

6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.

7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.

8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.

9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.

10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.

11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.

12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
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Washer making noise on spin cycle
20 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roy from MAYNARDVILLE, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer
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Clicking Noise When Agitating
17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chad from SAINT AMANT, LA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
- Shut off power to the washer
- Removed cap on top of agitator
- First, I tried using a ratchet set to remove the bolt that is inside the agitator at the baseplate. Tub would spin when I tried this method, so I used an air impact with long extensions. One press of the impact and the bolt loosened.
- Tied a pair of shoelac es together and stuffed them inside the seam around the agitator baseplate. I put the shoelaces half way around the baseplate. Get it in the seam then with two hands, each with an end of the shoelace, pull up on the baseplate. Success!!
- Installed the new agitator with base plate and then used the ratchet set to tighten the bolt. Didn’t want to take a chance on stripping the bolt inside the agitator with the air impact when tightening.
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Worn out splines connecting transmission driveshaft to agitator.
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from MILLBURY, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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The main knob insert snapped.
11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from HICKORY, NC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicat es the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
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replaced drain hose that was missing
12 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Delmar from EAST TROY, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys
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Water was dripping while the machine wasn’t running
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from VESTAL, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed two screws that held the control panel from the back with a power drill. Pop the control panel loose with a screwdriver from the top of the machine with the quick disconnects. After turning both the hot and cold water off I remove the hoses with pliers removed two screws with the power drill that hold the water inlet valve in plac e disconnected the wire harness plug And removed water inlet valve swap, the original harness to the new water inlet valve and follow the steps backwards to finish
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Water leaking at front left of washer especially after heavy loads
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kynrick from DENTON, TX
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected water and unplugged. Took off top and control panel. Replaced water inlet valve with new one. Simple plug and play connections. It was easy to see the old valve was bad with rust and sediment collecting on hot side.
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Lid would not lock, therefore, washer would not start.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patricia R from BROOKHAVEN, MS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I watched a YouTube video first. Followed instructions exactly and had washer going in 30 minutes!!!! Part that I ordered was an exact fit! Thanks to partselect.com!
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washer would start then stop with everything flashing
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lee from MURPHY, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
UNPLUG WASHER FROM WALL PLUG
Watch u tube on how to remove top and also cover on top circuit compartment
First find the service book taped inside front. PLUGand read to read codes
call up the error codes flashing
the code indicated a defective lid latch.UNPUG WASHER
went through testing the switch one of the cont acts was defective and intermittent.
UNPUG WASHER unpug J connect from circuit board remove wiring and connect from lid
new wiring harness goes back same as old one and mount new lid switch. done
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Washer not filling then timing out before load done
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from RICHMOND, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Turned off power and water. Removed hoses/Unplugged power. Removed screws to open and access control panel. Removed existing valve first by pinching off 6 wire connectors then screws securing valve to washer base. At this point, I replaced with new valve and reattached everything. I also added screen washers to both hoses as I suspect i t was built up debris in original valve impeding water flow through valve that led to problem…
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No drain
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hoa from Greer, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Take the old one out and put a new one in
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Washer won't fill with water, Error Code LF showing on display panel.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bill from CANADIAN, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Watched and followed You Tube Video . "Solved: The Fix for a Whirlpool Washing Machine that won't fill with water." The video is a little over 8 minutes long. At that start of the video he encourages you to watch all of the video for special instructions near the end of the video. You need to do that! I put 30-60 minutes, but actual time was 4 days as I had to order parts and wait for the parts to arrive.
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Washer hoses due for replacement
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from PINE MOUNTAIN, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.
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All Instructions for the 11020372711
1 - 15 of 25