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11020022011 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11020022011
46 - 60 of 525

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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washer wasn't spinning after rinsing but the motor was running
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from HANCOCK, MD
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I had taken the time to watch videos of this repair so when the switch arrived I knew what I had to do. Removing the screws to get the back cover off was simple as was installing the switch. No tricks here just watch the videos and your all set to do the job
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washer wasn't spinning on final spin
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from HANCOCK, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I found and reviewed videos on line to do the repair for my machine and when I actually did it the videos made it simple to do. Always look for videos of the installation for your machine or appliance and the job will go easy
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Making noise when spinning tub hit side of washer.
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ernestine from CARRIERE, MS
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Remove top of washer suspension
Rod goes on side of tub .
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top agitator would not operate
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Edgewood, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.
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Rotation cogs (4) worn out and the upper part of the agitator wouldn't turn with the lower agitator.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from LOVELAND, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Popped the cap off the agitator (pocket Knife) Look down in the center of the agitator. I saw I needed a 7/16 socket, 6" extention and ratchet. I used 1/4" drive. I took the retaining bolt out and lifted the upper portion of the agitator off of the iower portion and out of the tub. Set the part I took out on the dryer. I pulled the cone s haped part that houses the 4 cogs pieces out of the center of the upper agitator part. Once the coned shaped part was out, turned it upside down and placed it on the closed washing machine lid, then again used my pocket knife to lift the plastic retaining ring that securely holds the 4 cogs in place upward on the cone as to remove and replace the 4 worn out cogs with the new ones purchased in a repair kit. Pay close attention the direction the old cogs are facing, so the new ones go back in the same facing direction. It can be extremely easy to install the new ones backwards. I have to say at this point, I was quite disappointed with the retrofit repair kit I purchased. The new cone part the holds the cogs and goes down into the center of the upper agitator wouldn't allow the bolt that locks the whole agitator to the shaft to line up straight and wanted the bolt to "cross" thread into the main shaft. I took it all apart again and reused the original coned shaped part that came with the machine. I should have purchased just the 4 cogs for considerably less money. Reassembled the cone part and put it back together. Reinstalled the upper agitator in reverse order of removing it. Turned on the washer and it works like it's supposed to once again. Hope this helps the next person.
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The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Angelo from PORTLAND, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover wi th Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
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Washer gets stuck on Rinse and not complete the cycle.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from SEALY, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Found common diagnosis and instructions on internet. It is not difficult to replace.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.
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Gear stripped on main spline
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernard from ARIZONA CITY, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.
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Lid lock/latch stuck closed
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from BELMONT, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Watched a video
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When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • TERRY from WAUKEE, IA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
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Loose pulley
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from BAKER, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Tightened up the pulley as the video showed me that might be the issue.
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water would drip into tub between uses
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dale from MANDAN, ND
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplugged washer, turn off water to washer, removed water lines from washer, pull washer away from wall, removed about 5 screws from top access panel and remove, used putty knife to release clips from both sides of front control panel and lay forward, removed three screws from valve, disconnect hose from valve. Reassemble in reverse order . Not a bad idea to run a little water into bucket from both supply line to remove any foreign material that may have let lose from shut off valve before reconnecting to washer.
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heavy loads did not spin dry properly
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chet from CLEARWATER, FL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I followed the instructions provided by the video which I thought were spot on. Even to the size of the phillips screw driver.
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The washer stopped draining.All the pump motor did was hum.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Staten Island, NY
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Socket set
I drained the machine and pulled it away from the wall.Then I disconnected the drain hose and removed the back panel.Next,I removed the three screws holding the pump in place and disconnected the power plug from the motor.I then removed the short drain hose from the pump.Installation was the opposite of the removal sequence,and the machin e worked fine right after I was done.The new part was identical the the old one,and the job was a snap.
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Lid wouldn't lock
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from INDIAN LAKE, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed 5 screws on back, released 2 retention clips on front, lifted top of washer to expose lock assembly, removed 2 screws holding lock assembly in place followed electrical line back to plug behind control panel plugged new lock in, and reassembled in reverse order. Done!
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All Instructions for the 11020022011
46 - 60 of 525