EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

1068221660 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1068221660
1 - 15 of 114

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
The door would not close properly. The CAM had broken.
143 of 147 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from San Clemente, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The repair was very simple.

1. Remove the food from the door shelves.

2.Remove the door by first removing the three screws holding the hinge at the top of the refrigerator.

3. Lift door off of the bottom hinge.

4.Replace bottom CAM on bottom hinge (one screw)

5. Replace top CAM and sh im on door (one screw)

6. I put a little grease on the cam to make it slide better.

7. Place door on bottom hinge. Remount top hinge.

8. Done and works better than new.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Light Would Not Go On In The Refrigerator
62 of 82 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DANIEL from MINNEAPOLIS, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the le ad wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Main Door wouldn't self-close
43 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Huntington, WV
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After removing all the food items from the door, I popped the plastic cover off of the hinge assembly located on the top of the door. With a fine point Sharpie pen , I marked the outline of around the hinge assembly so I could return it to original position. I then loosened each of the 3 bolts holding the hinge on just enough to allow me to clear the pin of the hinge out of the hole in the door. Once the top was free of the hinge, I lifted the door off of the bottom hinge/pin assembly. My cam parts on the bottom hinge and door were either broken and/or partially missing. I removed the broken and worn pieces by removing each of the screws holding the top and bottom (of the bottom hinge assembly) cam pieces and installed the new ones using same screws. I then reversed the steps and slid the bottom of the door back onto the bottom hinge assembly and then lifted the top hinge enough to allow the hinge pin to slid back into the hole on top of the door. Positioned the hinge so it matched the outline and tightened the 3 bolts. I checked the closing and made a slight adjustment to door as one of the shelves was hitting the interior as it tried to close. I did this by loosening the 3 bolts and pushing the door up and to the right (this door was on the right side of refrigerator). Tightened the bolts and reinstalled the hinge cover.
Pretty easy. My door cams were a little different so I didn't use all the parts in the kit. My shims were metal and did not move when I replace the cams so I didn't use anything in this repair except the 2 lower cam parts. I also put some grease/vaseline on the cams to lubricate them.
I figure the plastic cams just wore out over the years and all the heavy junk we put in the door shelves. I lived with this problem about 2 years before it donned on me that it was probably just a plastic piece or two that was broken or worn out.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Door not swinging freely and not closing automatically
15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harold from Sun City, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
replaced lower door closing cams and shim and cleanded and lubricated top and bottom hinge. Took about 30 minutes. Hardest part was unloading the door and finding a place to put all the bottles and stuff. Door works just fine now.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The refrigerator door made a terrible bang every time it was opened.
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hank from Seattle, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
The hardest part was unloading all the food from the refridgerator door! Once done, pry shroud off top door hinge, remove 3 screws and hinge plate. Lift door off bottom hinge. Remove one screw from bottom of door, remove and discard old lifter cam and spacer. Clean up a bit. Install new spacer and lifter cam. Tighten new screw firml y. Replace the lifter cam and spacer on bottom hinge pin (affixed to refridgerator body) using the same method. Replacing the door is easiest if 2 people do it. One person to lift and steady the door, the other has to lie on the floor and guide the door onto the hinge pin. Replace top hinge plate and screws. Snap shroud back over top hinge plate. Replace food in refridgerator. Close door. Done!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
refrigerator door was making a popping noise when opening and closing
10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Vincent D from Blackwood, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Not being a handyman I found this job realtively easy.I took most of stuff off fridge door, to make door easier to handle. I then undid top hinge door screws, 3 of them, lifted door out., replaced 2 cams.When putting door back on fridge, you have to make sure door is in exact position and top hinge is lined up exactly, or door will contin ue to pop a little.It took me a couple of times to get top hinge lined up exactly.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
socket melted with bulb in it.
12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • martin l. from JACKSONVILLE,, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Refrig Door Cams wore out and made noises when opening and closing.
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Lewisville, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two y ear old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
door would not stay closed
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Chagrin falls, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed the top plastic hinge cover, remove (2) bolts from top hinge. Lifted door up and off of lower hinge, removed both halves of door cam, replaced cam halves and re-installed door. Super easy and effective. Door now opens and closes (stays closed) properly.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Lower Light Socket removed and Wires capped with wire nuts
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wayne from Arlington, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causin g the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The door light socket was broken and hanging down
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Roanoke, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this tim e, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Loud thud when door opened.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Floyd from Rushville, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Remove all items from the door shelves. Removed the top hinge cover and removed hinge mounting screws. Lifted door off bottom hinge and laid it on its side. I then replaced bottom hinge cam by removing (1) cap screw. Very simple job.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
had to push door closed
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • peter from portsmouth, RI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
lifted door 1/2 inch and put blocks of wood under the door and replaced the lower hindge cam.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Refrigerator light would not turn on.
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Suzanne from STERLING HTS, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the 1068221660
1 - 15 of 114