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1068221660 Kenmore Freezer - Overview

Diagrams for 1068221660

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$19.54
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(78)
Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Refrigerator Door Cam – Part Number: WPW10329686
$9.62
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Cam
★★★★★
★★★★★
(73)
Part #WPW10329686
The Door Cam is a black plastic part which helps the door pivot shut while keeping the door and hinge in proper alignment. Lubricating this part upon installation may help it move easier. It attaches onto the door hinge and should be replaced if broken or if there is noticeable damage. Refer to your model number and user manual to ensure this is the correct part for you. To do this repair you will need a 5/6 nut driver, a 5/16 socket, and a ratchet. For safety purposes, do not forget to turn off your appliance before making this repair. Note that this piece is black, and as per the manufacturer requires a new screw to mount the door cam which is sold individually. Please also note that this is the closing cam for the lower door, and the upper door cam is sold as a separate kit.
Door Closing Cam Kit – Part Number: 4318165
$22.52
In Stock
Door Closing Cam Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(30)
Part #4318165
This door closing cam kit is intended for use with the bottom of refrigerator and freezer door hinges. The cam helps with the closing of the doors and to keep them slightly in position when opened.
Air Conditioner Cover Screw – Part Number: WP308685
$7.47
In Stock
Air Conditioner Cover Screw
Part #WP308685
Sold individually.
Screw – Part Number: WP488729
$7.47
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP488729
Metallic screw that is less than an inch long. Does not include the plastic washer.
Light Socket Kit – Part Number: 4387478
$54.24
In Stock
Light Socket Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #4387478
The light socket in your refrigerator houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. If your refrigerator light is not coming on when you open the door, you may need to replace the light socket. Before you replace the light socket, be sure that your light bulb is in working condition, as this may solve the same problem. This light socket kit comes with 2 wire connectors, a light shield, and the new socket. The wire connectors that come with this kit are included so your new socket can replace a variety of old ones. If this light socket is different than your original, you will need to use the connectors to make it fit your refrigerator. Be sure to follow the instructions provided, so this part will fit your refrigerator properly.
Refrigerator Kickplate Support Clip – Part Number: WP944224
$9.62
Special Order
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WP999367
$7.47
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
Part #WP999367
Sold individually.
Refrigerator Single Hex Head Screw – Part Number: WP489069
$7.47
In Stock
Refrigerator Single Hex Head Screw
Part #WP489069
Sold individually. The size of this screw is 1/4" hex head and 10-12 x 1/2".
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WP489128
$11.77
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
Part #WP489128
This screw is sold individually.
Refrigerator Leveler – Part Number: W11117769
$17.15
Special Order
Refrigerator Leveler
Part #W11117769
This is an OEM part that is made of metal and sold individually. The leveling leg is generally used with refrigerators, dryers, freezers, ranges, cooktops, and microwaves. The leveling leg is meant to keep your appliance steady and level to the floor. If you notice your appliance is uneven to the floor it may need to have the leveling leg replaced. You will notice that the bottom of the leveling leg has a smooth surface to ensure moving your appliance does not require as much effort. This part screws into a pre-drilled hole underneath the appliance.
Refrigerator Retainer Bar End Cap – Part Number: WP986540
$9.62
In Stock
Refrigerator Retainer Bar End Cap
Part #WP986540
Sold individually.

Common Symptoms of the 1068221660

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The door would not close properly. The CAM had broken.
143 of 147 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from San Clemente, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The repair was very simple.

1. Remove the food from the door shelves.

2.Remove the door by first removing the three screws holding the hinge at the top of the refrigerator.

3. Lift door off of the bottom hinge.

4.Replace bottom CAM on bottom hinge (one screw)

5. Replace top CAM and sh im on door (one screw)

6. I put a little grease on the cam to make it slide better.

7. Place door on bottom hinge. Remount top hinge.

8. Done and works better than new.
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Light Would Not Go On In The Refrigerator
62 of 82 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DANIEL from MINNEAPOLIS, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the le ad wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!
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Main Door wouldn't self-close
43 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Huntington, WV
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After removing all the food items from the door, I popped the plastic cover off of the hinge assembly located on the top of the door. With a fine point Sharpie pen , I marked the outline of around the hinge assembly so I could return it to original position. I then loosened each of the 3 bolts holding the hinge on just enough to allow me to clear the pin of the hinge out of the hole in the door. Once the top was free of the hinge, I lifted the door off of the bottom hinge/pin assembly. My cam parts on the bottom hinge and door were either broken and/or partially missing. I removed the broken and worn pieces by removing each of the screws holding the top and bottom (of the bottom hinge assembly) cam pieces and installed the new ones using same screws. I then reversed the steps and slid the bottom of the door back onto the bottom hinge assembly and then lifted the top hinge enough to allow the hinge pin to slid back into the hole on top of the door. Positioned the hinge so it matched the outline and tightened the 3 bolts. I checked the closing and made a slight adjustment to door as one of the shelves was hitting the interior as it tried to close. I did this by loosening the 3 bolts and pushing the door up and to the right (this door was on the right side of refrigerator). Tightened the bolts and reinstalled the hinge cover.
Pretty easy. My door cams were a little different so I didn't use all the parts in the kit. My shims were metal and did not move when I replace the cams so I didn't use anything in this repair except the 2 lower cam parts. I also put some grease/vaseline on the cams to lubricate them.
I figure the plastic cams just wore out over the years and all the heavy junk we put in the door shelves. I lived with this problem about 2 years before it donned on me that it was probably just a plastic piece or two that was broken or worn out.
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