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1066392 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1066392
46 - 60 of 399

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Loud noise
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Britney from Wilmington, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
There was a loud noise coming from the fridge - we ordered the new part it came a lot sooner than we excepted and we replaced it in about 20 minutes- the hardest part was my husband getting his hand in there to put the screws in- but a very easy fix.
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refrigerator not always cooling
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from East Greenwich, RI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
After discovering I could give the thermostat box a rap with my hand and get it to start the fridge I got online at your site and found others were doing the same, before replacing the thermostat. I ordered the part from you and received it the next day! I used a long neck nut driver to remove the one screw holding the thermo box in place and pliers to unplug the three wires on the thermo unit. After removing the control knob it slides right out. I unwound the temp sensor wire and tried to shape it like the old one before installing(making this sensor fit like the old one takes a little juggling). Then hooked the wires on the new unit that you sent and the fridge started working again flawlessly. Big savings!
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Didn't know if I needed Left or Right.
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joyce from Kerrville, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The item is listed as R, meaning right hand side. If you need it for the left hand side, simple turn it over. It is designed to work on both sides of the door.
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socket melted with bulb in it.
12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • martin l. from JACKSONVILLE,, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.
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Freezer not coolling properly. Lower temp. 2 degrees upper temp. 60 degrees.
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Blairsville, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Take bottom racks and baskets out of freezer. Remove back sheet metal panel, 8 screws. Remove motor and bracket, 2 screws. Umplug wires on motor. Remove two more screws to take mounting bracket off motor. Install in reverse order. Simple job. Maybe 20 minutes. Besure to shut freezer off before startin work.
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Broken shelf support
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Arthur from West Chicago, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
snapped in. The best part was the ease that i identified the part due to your website.
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There was no light on in refrig area
12 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lori from Chuluota, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
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water collecting under the vegatable drawers
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from BILLERICA, MA
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I replaced the bi-metal thermostat. Very easy fix. It took a couple of days and the water stopped collecting at the bottom.I am very pleased with the web site.
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Ice buildup on the bottom of the freezer, water dripping into the refrigerator
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Craig from Rockledge, FL
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
After unplugging the refrigerator, I used a hairdryer to melt the ice sufficiently to be able to remove the freezer rear panel with a nutdriver. I also removed the ice-maker for easier access to the components behind the panel, using a nutdriver. Once the panel was removed I melted more ice at the bottom of the evaporator housing. Afte r partially melting the ice in the drain tube, I poured hot water down the drain tube until it cleared, signaled by the sound of the water dripping into the drain pan. I next removed the clip-on Bimetal thermostat from the copper line going into the evaporator and snipped the two wires to remove it. I installed the replacement thermostat with crimp-style connectors and pull-tested them. I also replaced the timer board that is located below the freezer, below the top shelf, using a nutdriver. I replaced the circuit board as a precaution that the thermostat may not have caused the problem. I didn't change the heater inside the freezer as it checked out to have the same resistance as a new one. I tested the removed thermostat using a glass of ice water but it remained in the open condition, using an ohmmeter. (I later checked that thermostat after the freezer was running and it did close, and returned it to the open position by heating it under the hot water faucet. I suspect that it didn't work properly, or the timer control board was faulty). After re-installing the back panel and ice-maker and plugging the refrigerator into the power receptacle, it worked very well, and has done so since the repair.
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The after market 4 yr old motor was making a wierd noise.
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marcus from St Petersburg, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed back panel and removed the motor put new quick disconnect on and tapped the mounting holes. Removed and cleaned fan blade from old motor and put on the new motor. Mounted motor plugged it in and replaced panel.
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The Freezer defrosted and everything on the top and the bottom spoiled
10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jorge from Miami, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burn ed. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.
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fan making bad bearing noise
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from Malvern, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
r&r fan blade and motor. with the parts you supplied it was easy. the parts were perrrrfect. thank you very much. job well done. bruce
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Motor Bearings Locking Up
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from North Palm Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the back panel on the refrigerator--unplugged the condenser fan motor--removed the motor--placed a small fan to cool the condenser--called parts select--ordered the motor--the motor arrived less than 24 hours after I ordered it--replaced the motor and rear panel on the refrigerator--probably saved more than $200. 00--Very happy wi th parts select service--plus I had a misunderstanding with my credit card and john at parts select was very helpful --not their fault--excellent company
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light not working in fridge
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from East Meadow, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!
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The old motor has built in wire harness. The new motor has connectors on it.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from EAGLE, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove and clean out everything from the freezer and unplug the refrigerator. Take out the wire shelf in the freezer. (The fan motor is behind the back wall of the freezer, SO YOU CAN KEEP THE REFRIGERATOR CLOSED). Pop off the little cover on the center of the plastic shroud. Remove the little screw and carefully remove the plastic shroud . Remove the plastic cover for the optional ice maker on the upper left corner of the back wall. Take out the two screws in the upper corners on the back wall of the freezer and the last two screws holding the fan motor. The fan motor won't drop, remove the back wall and you will see two screws holding the motor mount. Remover those two screws, and pop the bracket out and separate.Take the two rubber motor mounts off the ends of the old motor and install them on the new motor. (Now you will have to cut the wires off the old motor), unplug the little wire harness, strip the ends and crimp on wire connectors to plug them onto your new motor. Its an AC motor so it shouldn't matter which hot goes on which of the two terminals. JUST MAKE SURE THE GROUND IS CORRECT! (After reinstalling the motor, plug in the refrigerator, turn it on before installing the shroud and make sure the fan is blowing outward. If all is correct, turn the refrigerator off, unplug and finish assembling the freezer. I found the new motor seems to run more efficiently than the old one.
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All Instructions for the 1066392
46 - 60 of 399