1065707 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed Ice bin from Fridge

Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six

Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod

Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.

Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft

Remov ... Read more ed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order

Removed Ice propeller and installed new part

Put back together in opposite order

Easy

First, I tested the ice maker "switch" that actually just covers the beam that regulates the ice maker. In the "off" position, it still made ice. Then, I removed the three screws on the cover over the transmitter and disconnected the circuit board at the wire connector. It stopped. After ordering and receiving the new transmitter and rece ... Read more iver boards, I replaced both boards. They are located on either side of the freezer compartment under panels held in place by three screws. Probably saved 150 to 200 bucks.

We waited two years to do this because we didn't want to hassle with a repair man to come out and charge us arm+leg for something so simple. Finally we searched and found the part on line. It came two days FASTER than promised. Kudos to Part Select.
Snapping it on was a breeze, although you do have to apply more pressure than feels ... Read more comfortable with plastic clips. We can know get ice out of the external door system again.

I first read your forum which was extremely helpful! I checked the continuity of the electromagnetic valve and got a 0 reading on the ice fill valve. The valve next to it which is for the water in the door had a 300ohm reading on my meter. This meant there was a broken wire somewhere in the coil which confirmed the valve was bad. I tried ... Read more to get the part locally but was told it was on back order! Ordered it thru Part Select at the regular shipping rates and to my surprise it arrived the very next day!
The valve was the new style where you push in the tubing until it locks. I carefully trimmed each tube square with a sharp razor knife, the old valve used plastic compression fittings which had to be cut off.One of the inlet tubes was smaller than the opening on the valve. I then noticed that there was a reducer in the box that snapped into place making the line a perfect fit! Even though the inlet valve looked different than the original it was an easy installation. After replacing it, I had ice again! Totally impressed with the service and how quickly they shipped the parts on the same day! I will never again run around town trying to find parts! Thanks to all of the hard working employees at Part Select!

WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.

The repair was very simple.

1. Remove the food from the door shelves.

2.Remove the door by first removing the three screws holding the hinge at the top of the refrigerator.

3. Lift door off of the bottom hinge.

4.Replace bottom CAM on bottom hinge (one screw)

5. Replace top CAM and sh ... Read more im on door (one screw)

6. I put a little grease on the cam to make it slide better.

7. Place door on bottom hinge. Remount top hinge.

8. Done and works better than new.

Removed the face plate. Removed a few screws and unpluged a few electrical connectors and pulled apart. Removed the holding bracket and clear tubing from door. Cut new tubing at an angle to push through conduit. Reinstalled new bracket and re-installed electrical connectors. Snapped face trim on and bleed air out of system. . W ... Read more ater ran great.

Door quit closing on it's own......

** Order the following from www.partselect.com

Lower Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS323495

Upper Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS327641




1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket
2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket ... Read more cover on top of hinge
3. Have someone hold the frige door in place
4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose
5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge.
6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam"
7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one.
8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place.
9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though.
10. Replace with new cam.
11. put door back on hinge
12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws
13. Reinstall plastic cover.
14. Voila, you're done

Thanks PartSelect !

With socket wrench un-screwed the 3 screws and pulled out the ice maker assembly.

Pulled off white plastic end-cap and noticed the plastic gear disk had snapped off (sub part # R0167202)

However, it is all-one-part of the motor assembly unit # w10190935 (part # PS2341896) which must be ordered as a complete part.
... Read more />
Unscrewed the motor assembly (3 screws) with phillips head screw driver.

Screwed in the new unit.

Placed ice maker back into location and tightend the bacing srews.

1 hour later ice was falling!

Removed 2 screws holding water fill tube to rear of refrigerator and pulled out, matched old part with new to make sure of proper match. Guide new fill tube thru hole, making sure it is aligned with slot in ice cube tray on inside of freezer. Install new plastic line from water pump outlet to water fill tube, check for leaks, job done.

It's simple enough in theory: read the side of the box and follow the instructions. BUT you need to really push the knob in pretty hard (I am a girl, and my hand strength isn't that good). If you don't, when you turn the knob, the filter won't come out, then it's tougher. So: make sure the knob pops before you turn!

Was pretty simple just take the knobs off pull off the face plate remove a few screws and drop the whole shelf down. then a few more screws down the side to the back of the fridge. Pull the sensor wire out of some styrofoam and pull off the plastic coating and slide it over the new one and install it in reverse order from taking it out. W ... Read more orks great now and i have ice everyday :)

after ordering ice dispencer repair kit, and removing the outer parts found out that the problem was the ice dispencer door shell . this part is no longer available.It seems to me that if whirlpool wants to have return customers they have to stand behind the product. Well I made a L bracket and drilled a hole to to recieve the spring keep ... Read more er and glued this to the housing and used a 3 1/12"finishing nail as the pin all works fine

I researched everything that I heard and saw on this forum. I realized that I was seeing and hearing the same problems that everyone was having. So instead of being an idiot and taking the fridge to the curb, I decided to spend 86.00 including shipping/handling on 2 small parts (start relay and capacitor). Best money I have spent. Sav ... Read more ed me over $1000.00+ THANK YOU!!!! The 2nd best thing was that the parts came in the next day. I didn't expect it for approx 3-4 days. Excellent website and excellent service!!!

First called the Sears repairman out (big mistake). I was worried it was something with the water line, but he ran some diagnostics and got it working. It did make one batch of ice. Cost $140 for the visit. The "fix" was short lived, since it immediately quit working again. After doing lots of reading online, all I could gather was th ... Read more at the main wheel inside was out of alignment/sync. Sears has a 90-day warranty on repairs, so we called them back. Of course, their warranty only covers their previous repair only, but at least we wouldn't get charged the $55 fee just to have them come out. Second repairman said there was a broken part inside the icemaker assembly, and it would cost over $320 to fix this time ($230 for the part, $70 for labor, plus tax). We politely declined. Found a whole new icemaker assembly from PartSelect for $68. Once it arrived, it was literally just three screws/bolts holding in the entire assembly, unplug the wire chassis, just like a computer motherboard, insert new assembly, plug in wire assembly, put screws back in. Works like a champ...