10648 - Instructions
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Worn out door plastic cam
36 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ROGER from WAXHAW, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Replaced the door cam on bottom of fridge door. ONE THING TO UNDERSTAND- THERE ARE 2 CAMS ON THE DOOR, LOWER AND UPPER, BUT THE UPPER CAM IS NOT LISTED ON THE "DOOR HARDWARE" DRAWING, ITS LISTED ON THE MAIN BODY DRAWING! BE SURE TO GET BOTH CAMS! (PARTSELECT COULD MAKE A NOTE THAT WHEN PEOPLE LOOK UP LOWER CAM, PUT A NOTE IN THERE SAYING
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Y0U NEED UPPER TOO!)So I had to order the upper cam later and install later. BUT it is quite easy to replace, unlike the video, I only needed 1 tool! The nut driver (electric screwdriver w nut driver head). Thanks -RF
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Noisy and the Fan wasn't blowing like it should
35 of 36 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Centreville, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
I saved my Whirlpool Refrigerator (Model ET21GKXHN00) and learned a lesson. Don’t put off cleaning the refrigerant coils underneath the refrigerator. I replaced the refrigerator about 10 years ago and began to notice that the sound of this one running had changed slightly. I remembered that’s what happened to the first one just before
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it died. I removed the panel on the bottom front and saw that the refrigerant coils were covered with dust. It was really bad. I vacuumed them with the “radiator attachment” on the vacuum cleaner and plugged the refrigerator back in. It still didn’t sound right and I couldn’t feel the air blowing out like it should. So I rolled the refrigerator out and removed the back lower cover to see the compressor and the cooling fan. The fan was clogged with dust so I vacuumed that as well. But the fan wouldn’t spin freely by hand. The fan motor only had 3 screws holding it onto the plastic fan bezel and was easily removed by unsnapping the electrical connector on the motor. I removed the fan motor and tried to clean it with a few drops of WD40 on the shaft. But when I put it all back and plugged it in the fan just barely started turning. I unplugged the refrigerator and ordered the fan motor from PartSelect.Com (Item Number PS371043). The picture looked exactly like the motor that was in my refrigerator. I threw everything away in the refrigerator, cleaned it out and left it unplugged until the motor came. The motor arrived in a few days and it looked exactly like the one I had removed. It had the same electrical specifications stamped on the back and the electrical connector was the same and in the same location on the motor. I put the fan blade on the new motor and installed it exactly like the old one was. It only took 15 minutes or so and was very easy to install. When I plugged the refrigerator in the compressor started right away and so did the fan. It ran like a champ. In a few hours the refrigerator got cold and began to cycle on and off like normal and the fan blows like new. The sound is normal and the total running sound is quiet again like a new refrigerator. So for $84.67 I saved my $1300 refrigerator and learned not to neglect checking the build up of dust in the compressor fan section. I’m sure that’s what happens to most of the refrigerators people put out for trash pickup in front of their houses. The cause of the problem is when air flow is restricted across the refrigerant coils too much heat returns to the compressor and eventually causes the compressor to fail. I appreciate that we live in a time when you can order exactly what you need on the internet and make home repairs when you need to. Thanks Part Select for sending me the correct part. It’s nice to have milk and cold drinks again.
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Light Switch broke
48 of 78 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James Richard from St. Cloud, MN
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only
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swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.
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Auto Defrost Freezer keeps defrosting SIDE BY SIDE KITCHENAID
38 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Ringoes, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat.
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Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James
-James
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Refrigerator Wasn't Cooling,Evaporater Coil Freezing Up
38 of 50 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Doral, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of
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the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good
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The bin broke
38 of 51 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Julie from Albuquerque, NM
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I took out the broken bin and put in the new one. This is about the 5th bin I've had to replace. That maxed out my repair abilities.
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Frige Door Wouldn't Stay Closed, Would open when freezer door was closed.
33 of 37 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Las Vegas, NV
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts arrived at 2:30PM.
Read instructions, gathered tools, and went to work. I'd already watched an online video at your site on how to do the repair.
Removed the hinge cover covering the hinge top by using a nut driver to remove the single screw holding it in place. (The video described an older frige and it did n ... Read more ot have a screw. I figured that out when I finally went and got a ladder. I had tried to pop it out like the video shows.) There are three screws holding the hinge top in place. I tried using the nut driver to remove the screws but they were pretty firmly in place. I resorted to using my ratchet wrench and that made it easy. (Keep track of your screws, one of mine rolled under a cereal box on top of the frige and I thought I would never find it.)
I had emptied out all the items on the door of the frige, removing the shelves. It was easy to lift the door off of the bottom hinge and lay it on its side against the ladder. At this point I had my son hold the door steady (its kind of unwieldy and 'slippery' when you are trying to remove a screw from the bottom of the door.)
I removed the screw that held the plastic Door Closer, Upper Cam using the nut driver. I used a straight bladed screw driver to pry the old part out of the door (it has an insert for the hinge pin and it had been in place a long time). I also cleaned off the bottom of the frige door (you would be surprised what gets stuck on there - obviously someone spilled oranged juice on the floor and it splashed up on the bottom of the door). The old part had a lot of particle dust that came off it when I removed it. The new part popped right into place and I screwed it back in. The video shows that the repairman had to use a drill and tap set to rethread a larger hole but I just put the old screw back and it held fine. The video also showed the repairman adjusting the Door Stop Bracket but I didn't have to do that, the new cam installation wasn't impeded by the bracket.
I moved to the frige cabinet (again, good to have a second pair of hands to keep track of the door and not let it get damaged while I turned my attention to the Door Closer, Lower Cam. I used the nut driver to remove the screw holdin it to the hinge bottom. It came off easily (it practically fell apart and turned to dust). I placed the new cam and screwed it in using the old screw. No problem.
You could put the door back on with one person but it helps to have two. One to manhandle the door and the other to place it on the lower hinge post.
I put the upper hinge back on and put in the three screws but I left them lose so that I could adjust the door. When I tighted the single screw closest to the door after positioning the door, we tested how it opened and it was hitting the side of the interior cabinet when it closed - you could feel it dragging and it made a clunk/swoosh sound. We readjusted the door using the outside upper corner as a guide and retightened the screw. This time there was no problem. We tighted the other two screws using the ratchet wrench and then put the plastic hinge cover back on with the single screw using the nut driver.
Took us about 25 minutes and made my wife very happy (biggest benefit). The door now 'locks' open and 'locks' closed just like when we bought it and the two doors are aligned (level accross the top) which should have been a dead giveaway that the door closing cams had worn down.
Done by 3:00PM.
Read instructions, gathered tools, and went to work. I'd already watched an online video at your site on how to do the repair.
Removed the hinge cover covering the hinge top by using a nut driver to remove the single screw holding it in place. (The video described an older frige and it did n ... Read more ot have a screw. I figured that out when I finally went and got a ladder. I had tried to pop it out like the video shows.) There are three screws holding the hinge top in place. I tried using the nut driver to remove the screws but they were pretty firmly in place. I resorted to using my ratchet wrench and that made it easy. (Keep track of your screws, one of mine rolled under a cereal box on top of the frige and I thought I would never find it.)
I had emptied out all the items on the door of the frige, removing the shelves. It was easy to lift the door off of the bottom hinge and lay it on its side against the ladder. At this point I had my son hold the door steady (its kind of unwieldy and 'slippery' when you are trying to remove a screw from the bottom of the door.)
I removed the screw that held the plastic Door Closer, Upper Cam using the nut driver. I used a straight bladed screw driver to pry the old part out of the door (it has an insert for the hinge pin and it had been in place a long time). I also cleaned off the bottom of the frige door (you would be surprised what gets stuck on there - obviously someone spilled oranged juice on the floor and it splashed up on the bottom of the door). The old part had a lot of particle dust that came off it when I removed it. The new part popped right into place and I screwed it back in. The video shows that the repairman had to use a drill and tap set to rethread a larger hole but I just put the old screw back and it held fine. The video also showed the repairman adjusting the Door Stop Bracket but I didn't have to do that, the new cam installation wasn't impeded by the bracket.
I moved to the frige cabinet (again, good to have a second pair of hands to keep track of the door and not let it get damaged while I turned my attention to the Door Closer, Lower Cam. I used the nut driver to remove the screw holdin it to the hinge bottom. It came off easily (it practically fell apart and turned to dust). I placed the new cam and screwed it in using the old screw. No problem.
You could put the door back on with one person but it helps to have two. One to manhandle the door and the other to place it on the lower hinge post.
I put the upper hinge back on and put in the three screws but I left them lose so that I could adjust the door. When I tighted the single screw closest to the door after positioning the door, we tested how it opened and it was hitting the side of the interior cabinet when it closed - you could feel it dragging and it made a clunk/swoosh sound. We readjusted the door using the outside upper corner as a guide and retightened the screw. This time there was no problem. We tighted the other two screws using the ratchet wrench and then put the plastic hinge cover back on with the single screw using the nut driver.
Took us about 25 minutes and made my wife very happy (biggest benefit). The door now 'locks' open and 'locks' closed just like when we bought it and the two doors are aligned (level accross the top) which should have been a dead giveaway that the door closing cams had worn down.
Done by 3:00PM.
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Glass Pan Cover / Shelf Broke
32 of 35 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Sherry from Colorado Springs, CO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First of all, here's a warning to all -- I took the glass shelf / pan cover out to clean it -- with a sponge wet with COLD water and the shelf literally exploded on me. This is the second such incident. Both times I have been lucky and no one was hurt.
The shelf was easily identifiable by part number based on model number. E ... Read more asy to locate the model number on plate above top shelf inside refrigerator (right hand side in my case).
Only had to carefully set glass shelf in frame -- no issues. I was able to use a screwdriver to remove the shelf support stud and basically pop the replacement back in with no issue.
Thank you Parts Select for your simplified system to order replacement parts, and the speed with which it was received.
The shelf was easily identifiable by part number based on model number. E ... Read more asy to locate the model number on plate above top shelf inside refrigerator (right hand side in my case).
Only had to carefully set glass shelf in frame -- no issues. I was able to use a screwdriver to remove the shelf support stud and basically pop the replacement back in with no issue.
Thank you Parts Select for your simplified system to order replacement parts, and the speed with which it was received.
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disfigured, torn along bottom of door
32 of 37 people
found this instruction helpful.
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james from edina, MN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I loosen the screws with a nut driver just enough to pull old gasket away from door. This way the door panel and gasket retainer stay in place. I placed gasket from top and worked my way down one side. It took a little more time to slip gasket under retainer evenly, tighten each screw to keep gasket from pulling out while working around
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door.
30 minuets tops,never had to turn off refrigerator.
30 minuets tops,never had to turn off refrigerator.
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Compressor "grounded" and quit running
59 of 118 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mike from Baytown, TX
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Replaced the compressor with the new one I purchased from you. Installed new parts and recharged unit. The refrigerator / freezer is working better than new. Thanks for the great deal on the compressor. It was here in 3 days. All the parts fit exactly and had no difficulty in the installation or startup. The directions for the wirin
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g were a great help also. Thanks again.
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meat pan and crisper pan broken runners
32 of 39 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Troy, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
due to over filling and closing the drawers with the door and kicking, the plastic runners broke. Also, over filling the drawers did not help.
AS for the repair, the only difficulty was getting the right drawer in the right spot. Since I replaced both the veggie and meat drawer at the same time, I got them confused. On drawer is ... Read more longer than the other. other than that, no problem.
AS for the repair, the only difficulty was getting the right drawer in the right spot. Since I replaced both the veggie and meat drawer at the same time, I got them confused. On drawer is ... Read more longer than the other. other than that, no problem.
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Broken Door Shelves
32 of 40 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Russell from Twin Peaks, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I ordered the parts, three days later they were in my hands, and installed in the door of the refrigerator. Total time, two minutes! Perfect fit. Ordering the parts was the easiest thing I have ever done. This site is the best! Thank You!
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Our six year old fridge would not stop running - everything was frozen. Found if I tapped on the Tstat I could sometimes get it to turn off.
29 of 31 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jeff from Belleville, WI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove the knobs and faceplate to get at the screws behind it. Removing the sensor is a bit involved but everything else is fairly straight forward. See other postings for description / order of operation. Replacement took less than 30 minutes.
Works great now!
Works great now!
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auger or ice crusher in ice container was broken an wouldn't dispense ice
30 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Willis from Belleview, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
nothing to repair, simply removed the old ice container and auger from the freezer and replaced with it with the new one.
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Refrigerator was clicking from underneath and not cooling or freezing.
28 of 32 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Anne from Middletown, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First I turned off my refrigerator, called for service, and had the problem diagnosed as a bad start relay. The repairman checked the compressor to see if it too was bad. The compressor was fine so I ordered the part I needed from PartSelect. After receiving the new start relay and overload from PartSelect, I unplugged the refrigerator, p
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ulled it out and removed the screws from the lower back panel with the socket set and screwdriver. I removed the white self contained start relay box from the compressor by gently prying it off with a flat edge screw driver. I carefully disconnected the red and white wires from the broken start relay with pliers and followed the step by step directions that came with the replacement parts (the start relay and overload were separate components, not inside a self contained box like the original part). I proceeded to attach each part to the compressor, reconnect the red and white wires, and attach the new cover. I vacuumed out the area around the compressor and the condensor coils, plugged in the refrigerator, and turned it on. It worked immediately. I screwed the back cover on and pushed it back in place. Within 24 hours the ice maker was nearly full and I saved $225 by doing it myself.
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