10648 - Instructions

The door is very easy to remove. There is one nut for the cap on the top of the soor hinge. Once the cap is removed, you need to remove the 3 nuts holding the hinge in place. Simply lift the door off the lower hinge and rest it on the dining room table. I set towels down to protect the stainless finish. The closing cam will be visible ... Read more on the bottom of the door. I choose to replace the lower cam and the upper cam at the same time. I did not know what the problem cam was. The door works good as new. I put a small amount of vaseline where the two cams rub to provide a lubricant.

First I removed the cover plate over the cover over the thermostat, by snapping it out. Then I removed the four screws holding the cover over the thermostat in place. Next I removed the screw, which held the cover over the thermostat sensor. I then removed that cover and the unit, which exchanges air, flow between freezer and refrigerator ... Read more . I then removed the two screws, which held the thermostat in place. I then removed the thermostat with the sensor and the white tube, which covered it. Then I removed the white tube from the sensor.

To install the new thermostat I first inserted the thermostat sensor into the white tub. I lubricated the sensor with a very small dab of Vaseline. Then I placed the sensor unit in the unit, which exchanges air between refrigerator and freezer. I next reinstalled the unit, which exchanges air between refrigerator and freezer. Then I reinstalled the cover over the thermostat sensor. I then installed the thermostat with the two screws, which held it in place. Then I reinstalled the cover the thermostat with the four screws, which held it in place. Last I snapped the cover plate in place.

First disconnected the quick release electrical connection. Then loosened the three screws that were holding the motor in the bracket. However, space is limited and even with small hands it was rather difficult as the screws were in there very tight. There are a few sharp edges on the bracket and in the surrounding area of the motor ar ... Read more ea, and nicked myself a couple of times. Removed the fan blade from the old motor and attached it the new motor with the old flat washer/screw. Reconnected the electrical connection and that was that. All-in-all an easy repair.

Well first of all, I was afraid that the compressor was shot and I'd need a whole new refrigerator (ack $1000!!!). After googling/reading, I figured out that the starter relay mounted on the compressor was burned out. (loud click as thermal cutout shuts down compressor.) So, I ordered a replacement part, overnight shipping. Unfortunately, ... Read more this was on a Friday night, so I had to figure out how to keep the fridge cold all weekend (til Tuesday). I'd already moved frozen stuff to a chest freezer, but the inside of the fridge compartment was now nearly warm at this point, so I got 10 lb of dry ice. That got things cooled down initially. Well, turns out that with a short piece of wire, you can momentarily jump across the terminals of the relay and kick start the compressor. It then runs until either the defrost cycle stops it or the thermostat kicks it off. Anyway, all weekend, every six hours or so, I turned off the fridge for a minute to cool down the overheated, stalled compressor, then turned it on and jumped the terminals to start it up. Kind of a pain, but saved lots of food. Overall, the $30+$30 (shipping) for the part saved me from having to get a new refrigerator, so I'm quite pleased. I've used Part Select many times now. Very fast service and shipping, great website/database. I shop around and every time end up buying from them again.

After removing all the food items from the door, I popped the plastic cover off of the hinge assembly located on the top of the door. With a fine point Sharpie pen , I marked the outline of around the hinge assembly so I could return it to original position. I then loosened each of the 3 bolts holding the hinge on just enough to allow ... Read more me to clear the pin of the hinge out of the hole in the door. Once the top was free of the hinge, I lifted the door off of the bottom hinge/pin assembly. My cam parts on the bottom hinge and door were either broken and/or partially missing. I removed the broken and worn pieces by removing each of the screws holding the top and bottom (of the bottom hinge assembly) cam pieces and installed the new ones using same screws. I then reversed the steps and slid the bottom of the door back onto the bottom hinge assembly and then lifted the top hinge enough to allow the hinge pin to slid back into the hole on top of the door. Positioned the hinge so it matched the outline and tightened the 3 bolts. I checked the closing and made a slight adjustment to door as one of the shelves was hitting the interior as it tried to close. I did this by loosening the 3 bolts and pushing the door up and to the right (this door was on the right side of refrigerator). Tightened the bolts and reinstalled the hinge cover.
Pretty easy. My door cams were a little different so I didn't use all the parts in the kit. My shims were metal and did not move when I replace the cams so I didn't use anything in this repair except the 2 lower cam parts. I also put some grease/vaseline on the cams to lubricate them.
I figure the plastic cams just wore out over the years and all the heavy junk we put in the door shelves. I lived with this problem about 2 years before it donned on me that it was probably just a plastic piece or two that was broken or worn out.

Cleaning out the freezer took the longest time. Once the freezer was clean I turned off the freezer which did not deactivate the light in the freezer. This is a tight area to work in and not having to hold a flashlight made the job much easier. I then removed the shelf slider brackets for the 3 lower pullout drawers. The next step was ... Read more to remove the interior aluminum back panel (6 screws) which covers the evaporator motor and the coil. Before removing the 3 electric wires that are attached to the evaporator motor make sure the power is off to the motor. The removal of the motor was fairly straightforward and I would suggest removing the plastic fan blade first and then the connector wires. It helped knowing in advance that the plastic fan blade would come off with a little prying. Be careful when prying the fan off so that you don’t damage the plastic motor mount bracket. Once you have installed the motor I would suggest turning the freezer back on to make sure that the evaporator motor works before reinstalling the aluminum back panel and slider brackets.

Originally replaced water inlet valve, not the problem. Tried to work from cheap to expensive.
1. Turn off power, shut off water supply
2. Loosen top two screws of ice maker (will slide up and off, no need to take top two out)
3.Remove bottom screw from ice maker
4.Pulled unit, snapped out existing wire harness
5. ... Read more Cut hole for water inlet on end of new unit and attached wire icemaking on/off bracket.
6 Connected existing wiring harness to new unit
7. Slid new unit down onto top two screws, put in bottom screw and tightened all three
8. Turned on power and water supply
Had ice being made within two hours. Part Select has given me great service, highly recommend.

I removed two screws on the top and one underneath the unit. Then I disconnected the cable. The hardest part was getting the nut driver on the bottom screw because it was obscured by the unit. The replacement unit plugged right in! I got my first batch of ice in about 20 minutes. All I really needed was the timer unit, but the entire ice ... Read more maker wasn't much more expensive, especially when you consider the time saved on installation!

Received my kit quickly. Job was fast and easy. Removed 3 screws with nutdriver and unpluged the wiring harness. Use a flat blade screwdriver to lift the tab on the plastic end cap of the harness. The icemaker comes out in one piece. The wiring harness that came installed on the replacement icemaker matched mine perfectly. (It comes with ... Read more two others). I plugged the new one in, replaced the screws, bottom one first to help hold it while replacing the top two screws. I used the shut-off arm from my faulty icemaker. Turned the power back on and put 1/2 cup of water in the tray and walked away. Ice dropping into the bin was music to my ears. Didn't need any of the clips or things that came with the icemaker. It was basically a "plug and play". I'm so happy to have ice again, and at a great savings!

I had a technician called out to the house to look at repairing several appliances that all have broken parts after just 3 yrs of use. Hood, Microwave, Oven, Fridge all in need of minor repairs..

Anyway - the estimate was $240 to replace the ice maker. I ordered PS358591 for $104. and it came in a couple days.. I took out one ... Read more screw - slid out the icemaker, unplugged it - plugged in new one and slid it in the slot - and done !! Took about 20 mins.. didnt need any of the wiring harnesses in the box from partselect. Was way to easy to do !!

Thank you !

First I called a repair man to diagnos the problem. He said it was the starter relay and gave me a quote for $300.
I looked online and found the part at PartSelect for $55 delivered.
I took the back panel off the fridge, unplugged the appliance to stop the flow of electricity (forgot to do that once) and after ensuring the elec ... Read more tricity was off, I cut the wiring to the starter relay. After pulling back the wire casing and reconnecting to the new started relay the compressor turned back on and the fridge started cooling again within about an hour.
This took roughly 30 minutes to complete and saved me around $250!

First, I unplugged the power to the entire fridge, and then removed the ice tray and ice door. Next, I unplugged the flat plug in the very back left behind the icemaker. Then I removed the 1/4" hex head sheet metal screws (2) and the phillips head screw (1) that hold the icemaker to the left side of the freezer wall. New icemaker came ... Read more with a different style trip arm, so I used it. Plugged new icemaker in before reattaching it with the same (3) screws. Replaced ice tray and door, plugged in fridge, and waited....Dumped its first batch of ice maybe a couple of hours later. Not much trouble-shooting is needed when the entire icemaker is as easy and relatively inexpensive to replace as this. Twenty minutes, max.

The procedure was straightforward. I removed the cardboard backing on the lower back of the refrigerator to expose the fan unit. I then undid the electrical harness at the fan. I then removed the three screws securing the fan motor to the metal bracket. This is the hardest part in that I had to reach through and get to the screws with my ... Read more small tools. I then removed the old motor and blades and placed the new motor and blades. Again, a bit tricky trying to get the three screws mounted into the bracket...small tools and hands helps. After that I used the electrical harness supplied with the kit to plug into the new motor and I was done.

Unplugged power cord from the wall outlet
I removed the back cover using a 1/4 nut driver. Removed the two wires, one went to the starter driver the other to the overload protection. Unplugged the part from the compressor.Plugged in new part and re-attached the two wires replaced cover and plugged in power back in to the wall outlet

1. Unplug refrigerator to remove power!
2. The timer is inside the control housing located at the top of the refrigerator compartment.
3. Remove two control knobs (the pull off).
4. Remove the front panel escutcheon. The panel is not held in place with screws, but can be gently pried off.
5. Remove two screws from the ... Read more back that hold the housing in place.
6. Remove screws from the front that hold the housing in place.
7. Drop housing down (still attached by wires - do not detach). Timer is inside housing, located on right.
8. Follow the instructions provided to identify your particular wiring setup. You'll find the wiring diagram (on my model) at the bottom of the refrigerator, alongside the defrost catch pan, behind the airflow grille.
9. Remove connector from timer terminals (4).
10. Remove two screws/nuts that hold the timer in place.
11. Install replacement timer following included directions. Read and follow ALL instructions applicable to your particular model and wiring setup.
12. Reassemble by reversing the steps above.
13. Note: You may need to "jog" the replacement timer when you first plug the refrigerator back in, if the timer happens to be in a "defrost cycle" (the compressor won't start). This can be done by inserting a wide bladed screwdriver into the hole below the timer, aligning it with the timer shaft, and slightly turning the shaft CW. Don't force it, and don't turn it very far.