1015 - Instructions

First I removed upper front grill by removing two Philips head screws on top and pulling off. This exposed the Philips head screw which holds control panel in place. After removing screw I pushed up on panel and it came off to expose fuse. With needle nose pliers I removed old fuse and again with pliers held new fuse in position. With the help of a bladed screwdriver, I pushed new fuse into holder, then replaced panel, screw and grill. This took less than 15 minutes even as one of the wires on control panel pulled out of connection and took some time to locate where to reconnect, otherwise was an easy fix
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1. Turn off power to range at circuit breaker
2. Remove grate
3 Remove control knobs
4, Remove two screws holding control panel
5. With wrench, remove locking nuts from control switches
6. Lift panel, exposing switches
7. With new switch in hand, unattach old switch one terminal at a time, attaching new switch exactly as old switch, terminal by terminal.
8. Replace everything in reverse order
9.Turn on power

Just removed the broken vent cover.
Injected foaming sealant.
Pushed on the vent cover plate.
Screwed it in place.
More foaming sealant.
Clipped on the flapper and secured the cover.

Important: Down load the helpful assembly diagram for the fan motor and study it for a few minutes. It's very straight forward. Also a good idea is to remove the bottom panel which comes off easy before starting.

My only problem was removing the existing blower/fan wheel without damaging it once I had the assembly on the work bench. It was rusted on tight and managed to remove after a few tries using penetrating oil. The wheel is in stock and I'd suggest buying a new one along with the new motor if I had to do the job again.

Bottom line; the fan motor fit perfect but did have to re-use part of the old existing electric pig tail because the motor does not come with the factory type motor terminal connectors. By using three twist on wire connectors was back in business. The down draft vent works like new.

Wife is happy...

Wade

Jenn-Air Microwave would not turn on. Clock worked , light worked, timer worked and would count down .I changed' Part #0813140 Switch, Micr} cost $8.99 plus shippingNow it works Thank You for good advise

I enlarged the vent access hole from four (4) inches to five (5) inches to accomodate a larger pipe. I then purchased locally a 5" to 4" transition and installed it in the enlarged opening, and sealed the space with expanding foam for a bug-proof air-tight fit. On the inside of the house I attached a short length of 4" pipe to attach the dryer vent pipe. On the outside, in the place of the aluminum vent cap, I installed the 5" Jenn-Aire vent cover purchased from PartSelect.com. The new vent is large enough to completely cover the chiseled out masonry area, and the 5" outlet reduces air noise from the dryer, but best of all the new vent provides the high quality look I needed to match the brick of my new home.

I mistakenly thought I had to remove the microwave to get to the back, not so. I would have had access to what I needed to unscrew; but I have to admit the hassle of taking it down and putting it back equals having to work on it attached to the shelf-your call on how you do this. I unscrewed the front top to remove the vent piece that is across the top front of the microwave. This will reveal the control panel screw. (While you have the vent removed you might want to clean the vent and the exposed filter.) carefully lift and pull out control panel. I unplugged a piece as the wires were tied tight. It will not completely detach, so carefully tip it back from exposed insides. The fuse is not clear but white with silver ends so look in upper right for it. I popped it out and replaced it. Replugged the wired part to cover and carefully fit tabs in and slide down to secre. Replace screw, replace vent piece and secure screws on top of microwave. I plugged it in to test before putting it back above my stove.

Removed 4 small star head screws from back of microwave, lifted body off, removed blown fuse and replaced with new one (found where cord enters). This model is stainless inside and out and I like it a lot. It is also sold by Daewoo and a few other manufacturers.

Attached spring to damper, placed on existing 5" duct and secured. Used screwdriver to attach vent cover to damper.

Unscrewed old cap, installed new

Access is via RT. SIDE Panel as you face microwave. There are three screws on the bottom right edge to loosen. After that the side panel slips down and off. the fuse is located in the rear near where the power cord comes in. It is the white ceramic tube 1/4" in dia. and 1-1/2" long. Pull it out like any fuse and replace with new one. Reassemble and you are done!

Installation was straight forward as the new vent cap was sized correctly for exhaust pipe (5 inch). Placed the mounting plate into the exhaust pipe and used 4 SS screws to anchor to house sheathing. The vent flapper was not flat, requiring that I carefully stress relieve it at 250 degrees and hold it flat while cooling to take warp out. Snapped it in place afterwards and then bolted on cover.

Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking

I tried to order a light socket but you sent me a blade then cancelled my order and refunded my money after I waited for the right part.

removed old and replaced with new without difficulty.