Caloric Fridge Parts
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Popular Caloric Fridge Parts
Your Price
$7.51
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect Number PS884734
Manufacturer Part Number 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Installation Instructions
judie from mays landing, NJ
interior drawers were off their rollers
pulled the washer out and replaces the top roller system on both sides and the replaced the weels and brackets on the bottom drwaer. however i had trouble putting the dish washer back correctly and had to call a repairman to adjust the dishwasher and alighn it to open and close properly. but i did do good inside. i feel it was easy and a success. thank you for having the supplies for us to attempt to repair it on our own.
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Your Price
$135.76
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2121513
Manufacturer Part Number D7824706Q
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or may not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
Fixes these symptoms
- Clicking sound
- Doesn’t stop running
- Ice maker dispenses too little ice
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue. Read more...
Your Price
$30.86
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
PartSelect Number PS12728638
Manufacturer Part Number W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Fixes these symptoms
- Light not working
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Clint from Rayville, MO
Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
Read more...
Your Price
$46.74
In Stock
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11741429
Manufacturer Part Number WP338906
If your gas dryer is not heating up or igniting, then replacing the flame sensor, located in the burner assembly, could solve it. This part senses heat from the igniter to monitor if it is hot enough to ignite gas to light the burner. Once the igniter is hot enough it will open the valve and allow gas to flow. This is a safety mechanism to prevent dangerous levels of gas from building up. To repair, the main top of the dryer should be lifted, as well as the front panel to access the component. This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.
Installation Instructions
Michael from Kirkwood, MO
Gas Dryer would not ignite
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
Your Price
$33.77
In Stock
Defrost Timer
PartSelect Number PS11723171
Manufacturer Part Number W10822278
The Defrost Timer (Defrost control) acts like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This part is located inside of the control housing on most models, and is approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide. This part is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white. It features 1 defrost timer, along with all necessary mounting hardware and installation instructions
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Freezer section too warm
- Freezer too cold
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Lawrence from Grahamsville, NY
The frost free feature of the freezer was freezing over with ice and cooling coils were being insulated with thickening frost which caused the cooling air to rise in temperature from -5 degrees to 20 degrees.
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal opens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
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Your Price
$55.91
In Stock
Condenser Fan Motor Kit
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new Read more...
PartSelect Number PS395284
Manufacturer Part Number 833697
This condenser fan motor kit is designed for use with refrigerators. This fan draws air through the condenser coils and over the compressor. It does this with the goal of cooling the warm refrigerant before it enters the evaporator. When your fan or fan motor is not working your refrigerator will not cool properly. This is a 2-Watt, 115 Volt motor that rotates the fan in a counter clockwise direction. This kit includes the hardware needed for installation, and a set of instructions. Before you begin any repair work make sure to unplug your appliance.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer section too warm
- Fridge and Freezer are too warm
- Fridge runs too long
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Tom from Franklin, WI
Sometimes the condenser fan would start causing the refrigerator to overheat.
Unplug the appliance.Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new Read more...
Your Price
$55.23
In Stock
Capacitor
PartSelect Number PS11757023
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10662129
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor in your appliance to easily cycle on and off. This capacitor mounts directly onto the compressor starting relay. If the capacitor is faulty the compressor may get unusually hot and draw excessive amperage. It the compressor overheats, it may fail to run until it cools down again. The compressor may also get noisy from overheating. If this part is totally electrically open, it is defective (often due to overheating) and needs to be replaced. The part measures 1 inch by 1-1/2 inches, and is constructed of plastic with two metal wire terminals. This item includes 1 capacitor, sold individually. This part comes in black.
Fixes these symptoms
- Clicking sound
- Freezer section too warm
- Fridge and Freezer are too warm
- See more...
Installation Instructions
garth from forest lake, MN
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Your Price
$72.30
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
PartSelect Number PS376645
Manufacturer Part Number 482731
The evaporator is found in the back of the freezer. This kit comes with two mounting grommets, two sleeves (not to be used on porcelain models), two #8 mounting screws, and a push-on fan blade. If you are experiencing symptoms such as the fridge making loud noises (generally stemming from the freezer compartment), or the fridge/freezer feeling warm in temperature, this may indicate a need to replace your evaporator fan motor. This part pulls air into the evaporator coils and then disperses the air in a continuous motion throughout the refrigerator and freezer.
NOTE: NO LONGER ABLE TO GET BRACKETS. SEE PART INSTRUCTIONS IN SERVICE MATTERS INSTRUCT SHEET# W11500157 11/20KC.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer section too warm
- Fridge and Freezer are too warm
- Fridge too warm
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Michael from Churchville, NY
Unit very noisy and freezer too warm
First I removed the racks in the freezer. The rack supports on the sides lift off without tools. The evaporator cover is at the back of the freezer. 4 phillips head screws. The cover lifts up then forward to expose the evaporator, evaporator fan and duct. The duct is held by 3 hex head screws. The evaporator fan is attached to the duct with a wiring pigtail to a plug. Unplug the fan and remove the duct. The fan is held by 2 hexhead screws. The new fan is put in place and assembly is simply the reverse of disassembly. The unit is quiet and cools properly now. The new part fit perfectly.
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Your Price
$10.83
In Stock
Door Closure Cam Kit
(Not after as I did. The second time you do any of these repairs go SO much better :o)
After putting the door back on, adjust the tension of the screws holding the door in place if needed to align the door on the cams so that it shuts completely. Failure to do this will require taking the top off the door again. (see comment above on "... second time...")
If all is properly aligned, the door should swing completely shut.
Even with the mistakes that required removing the door to lubricate the cams, and removing it AGAIN to readjust the screws on the top to properly align the door on the cams, this was a twenty minute job. My wife and I were still speaking to one another at the end of it- a sure sign of an easy repair. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2168612
Manufacturer Part Number R0181181
This door closing cam kit is intended for use on the bottom of your refrigerator and freezer door hinges. The cam helps close the doors and to lifts them slightly when opened. If your door will not open or close, or will not stay closed, there could be an issue with the door close cam. Other common symptoms associated with the door close cam are: the door is sweating, the fridge is too warm, or a clicking sound can be heard coming from the door. If your refrigerator has an ice and water dispenser, you will need to disconnect the power and water to the unit before you begin the repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Clicking sound
- Door Sweating
- Door won’t open or close
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Russ from Asheville, NC
Door would not close
After emptying the refrig. door, I unscrewed the plate on the top of the refrigerator that covered the door bolts. Then off with the three bolts. I removed the door by lifting it up a few inches. The two parts of the door cam were easily removed and replaced with the new part. BEFORE REPLACING the door spread vasoline on both cam parts. (Not after as I did. The second time you do any of these repairs go SO much better :o)
After putting the door back on, adjust the tension of the screws holding the door in place if needed to align the door on the cams so that it shuts completely. Failure to do this will require taking the top off the door again. (see comment above on "... second time...")
If all is properly aligned, the door should swing completely shut.
Even with the mistakes that required removing the door to lubricate the cams, and removing it AGAIN to readjust the screws on the top to properly align the door on the cams, this was a twenty minute job. My wife and I were still speaking to one another at the end of it- a sure sign of an easy repair. Read more...
Your Price
$27.80
In Stock
Door Light Switch
PartSelect Number PS11738900
Manufacturer Part Number WP2149705
The purpose of the light switch in your refrigerator is to automatically turn on the light when the door is opened. If the light does not come on automatically when you open the door, the contacts inside the light switch may be burned out, meaning it is time to replace the switch. This package contains both the new light switch and a small plastic spacer. To complete this repair, you will need to remove the control panel section of your refrigerator. The only tools you will require for this repair are a 1/4-inch nut driver and maybe a small flat blade screwdriver. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the refrigerator before completing this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Light not working
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Randy from Hays, KS
Broken light switch
Took all the screws out of the plastic shroud that encloses the switch .There only four that I needed to remove, were the two in front where the switches that go,they go in horizontally and two in the back with large washers on them that hold the back to the top of the box that go in vertically.The switch was a snap ( make that two snaps ) the wiring is almost self explanatory. then it gos back to the way you took it off. OH! and don't forget to turn the light bulb all the way back in to the socket , so the light will work after you take the time to install it yourself.I had the water supply line from under the box to the water dispenser in the door and the total bill on that was one hundred thirty seven and a hand full of change.Don't be afraid to do it yourself the savings is enough on one one item to make several months payments on a new one Randy the "Handy Man'
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Appliance Type
Popular Caloric Fridge Models
Below are the most popular Caloric Fridge models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
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- GTA18AL TOP MOUNT REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER
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- GTG18AL TOP MOUNT REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER
- GTW18AL TOP MOUNT REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER
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- GFS185 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
- GFS185 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
- GFS185 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
- GFS185 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
- GFS185 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
- GFS165 REFRIGERATORS
- GTA18AW TOP MOUNT REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER
- GFS162 REFRIGERATORS
- GFS187 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
- GTA18AW TOP MOUNT REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER
- GFS162 REFRIGERATORS
- GFS165MN01 Electric
- GFS162/MN10 Top Freezer
- GFS185MN01 Electric
