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Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor WP338906
Official part for Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana
Fits your LDG7600AGG!
About This Part
What it does. Why it matters. Everything you need to know for an easy fix.
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor Specifications
If your gas dryer is not heating up or igniting, then replacing the flame sensor, located in the burner assembly, could solve it. This part senses heat from the igniter to monitor if it is hot enough to ignite gas to light the burner. Once the igniter is hot enough it will open the valve and allow gas to flow. This is a safety mechanism to prevent dangerous levels of gas from building up. To repair, the main top of the dryer should be lifted, as well as the front panel to access the component. This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.
Part #WP338906
Manufactured by
Whirlpool
for Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana
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OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. This means that the company who made your appliance is also supplying the replacement part.
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Part Videos
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Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
Repair Tips
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Dryer gas heat turned off after 1-2 minutes
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
First changed the ignitor, which did not fix the problem. Unpug Dryer. Removed the front panel by taking out the 2 phillips screws and pulling the bottom of the panel out first, releasing the top clips. Remove the clip holding the coils on and replace them. Plugs just pull off, each are different so cn't mix them up. Both sensor and therm
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ostat are pretty easy to get to using 1/4" drive socket. the screws can be a bit tough to get back in, but be patient. Wiring is pretty straight forward, remove from the old part and put on the new, same orientation. This is a good time to vacuum out the bottom of the dryer to get any loose lint out. Return the front panel, tilting out at the bottom to engage the top clips. Plugged it in and worked like a charm
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Got heat only on start of cycle and no repeat of flame. Suspected coils on gas valve.
18 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
I used a multi meter to find coils failed in warmed temperature condition.
I tested main switch for different cycle operation. Main switch was worn out inside and not making good contact for soft cycles.
This dryer is 25 years old. I chose to replace all the sensors, fuses, ignitor, gas valve coils, cycle switch and thermostat. ... Read more
This was cost effective for me, because now, I actually have a good dryer that might just last another 25 years. I might replace the drive belt soon. I'll order from Parts Select. This was easy and fun. Thanks!
I tested main switch for different cycle operation. Main switch was worn out inside and not making good contact for soft cycles.
This dryer is 25 years old. I chose to replace all the sensors, fuses, ignitor, gas valve coils, cycle switch and thermostat. ... Read more
This was cost effective for me, because now, I actually have a good dryer that might just last another 25 years. I might replace the drive belt soon. I'll order from Parts Select. This was easy and fun. Thanks!
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Dryer not heating / drying properly
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
Removed lower and upper panel on front of dryer, realized I did not have to remove upper but it was better visually. I replaced coils using old cage replacing two coils paying attention to position. Next I replaced cycling thermostat and boosting heater (which piggy back). Lastly I replaced Radiant flame sensor (which was working, but old
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).
Everything worked perfect for a little over a hundred dollars, a repair person would have cost me $ 75 to $ 80 dollars for a handshake plus parts and labor. I am very pleased.
Everything worked perfect for a little over a hundred dollars, a repair person would have cost me $ 75 to $ 80 dollars for a handshake plus parts and labor. I am very pleased.
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Heat for 1 minute then no heat
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
In my case, it was the solenoids. Take off the top be removing two screws on back, then slide the top back and off. Then remove little screws on top that hold the plastic bar with the electronic controls. This very easily will pop up, don’t unplug it, just lay it aside on top of machine. Under this you can see the white metal piece that
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contains the door. This whole piece comes off with the door in place. Look for four screws across the top, remove em. Then open the door, there are two facing out about 10 inches apart. Remove em. Now slide whole door out (sort of a hinge on the bottom) from the top. After it pops out from the tops, lean it out about 1 foot then pull up hard. It comes off at the bottom. Gently unplug the door, you will see the wire to unplug. I used a small screwdriver to gently pry the plug apart to get it started. After the front panel is removed, you can see the gas valve lower right. On top of the gas valve which is about 5 inches by 5 inches, you will two black cylinders on top of it. Cylinders that are 1.5 inches tall and about 1 inch wide. These are your solenoids. These create an electromagnetic field that opens the gas valve. There is a silver colored piece of metal on top of them holding them in place with two screws on top. Take this cover off the two black solenoids (Black cylinders). Then remove the cylinders after gently unplugging them. Do not just pull on the wires. Use an ohm meter to test the old ones after you slide them up and off what looks like a silver post. There are two metal tabs on one where the plug plugs onto it. Set your ohm meter for 1000 and touch the two metal tabs. Your meter should say there IS a circuit. If your meter says there is no circuit your solenoid is bad. The other solenoid has threee tabs. Hold your solenoid with the metal plugs down and the cylinder is standing upright. Have the three prongs facing you. The prong on the left as you face the solenoid it is your common. Touch this prong and then with the other wire touch the middle prong. You need to see a circuit that is closed, or connected. If there is no circuit your solenoid is bad. Now touch your two testing wires on the two outside prongs. You still need to see a circuit. If no circuit you have bad solenoid. Replace em. The solenoids die slowly over years. Your dryer will start to take longer to dry. This is sign of dying solenoids. To the left of the gas valve you can see the sensors that determine if the air coming out of the dryer is damp or dry. Replace them at the same time. Where you are the burner, on the left of the 5 inch wide tube it is in you will see a sensor, rectangle shape 2 inch by 1 inch. This determines if the lighter is glowing. Replace it at this same time. On top of the burner tube, top right, hard to reach, there is another sensor that shuts it all down if it is over heating. There are two wires plugged into it. Use a MAGNETIC and very short philips head to remove it. Slowly, don’t drop the screws. Pull the whole sensor out while plugged in, then unplug it using a screw driver to help get it started unplugging. When the new sensor goes in, screw it on place first. Do not try to screw the new one in with wires on it. It is not easy, but you can do it. Use a small flash light etc to help see. Once screwed on, plug in your wires. It does not matter which wire goes on which end. So after you replace all your sensors (4 total) and you replaced those two round black solenoids, you can put it all back together.
Do not buy cheap piece of sh-t parts. The cheap ones are made in China with short cuts, low quality metal and ceramics. Cheap. Use authentic Maytag parts, each sensor should be like $30. I replaced all of mine for $180. I now have a brand new unit as far as the electronics are concerned, good for another 10 years.
Do not buy cheap piece of sh-t parts. The cheap ones are made in China with short cuts, low quality metal and ceramics. Cheap. Use authentic Maytag parts, each sensor should be like $30. I replaced all of mine for $180. I now have a brand new unit as far as the electronics are concerned, good for another 10 years.
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No heat in dryer. Gas would not come on.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Replaced the flame sensor and the igniter. Probably didn’t need the igniter but put in anyway. Saved old igniter for a later time just in case it burns out.
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Dryer stopped heating
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
The video on partselect was for an electric dryer, mine is gas. The video said to reach the thermal fuse to go in through the back of the dryer but to get to my thermal fuse we had to take the panel on the front lower section of the dryer off. Then after that was taken off, we had to take the big black housing off. The fuse was locate
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d behind the big black plastic housing. Once located, it was easy .
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Dryer heat was low and intermittent
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Unplug dryer. Removed the screws on the right hand hinge, lift and remove the door, remove the screws in the left-hand side, slide top of front cover out and lift off of metal tabs and set aside. Used a small Shop-Vac to clear any dust or lint from the appliance housing. Un-clipped quick disconnect connectors from the igniter, flame senso
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r and coils. Loosened but did not remove screw holding igniter slid igniter coil off following slot in igniter coil. Unscrewed top bracket screw to flame sensor, slid other end out of tab in slot, bracket must be slightly bent to remove old and insert new. Unscrewed top brackets to coil. Warning assembly screws were installed extremely tight had to break them free using small vice grips so phillips heads would not strip, enough clearance to gain purchase on the sides of the screws head with small vice grips. Place new coils into slots and screwed brace back into place. slid new igniter coil onto the existing screw, inserted metal tab into assembly for heat sensor, new part came with replacement bracket. tightened all screws. reconnected quick connectors to all 3 parts. reversed process of cover disassembly to reassemble and reinstall door. plugged dryer back in. fix successful consistent heat restored.
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dryer would not work .
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Took the old parts out and installed the new parts in , everything that you sent fit perfect!!!!!
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DIY Questions and Expert Answers
39 questions answered by our Repair Experts.
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Bill
- For model number NGD4500VQ0
August 14, 2017
How do I know that the heat sensor is bad? My igniter lights but gas valve does not open.
Hi Bill,
Thank you for your inquiry. You can test your sensor with a multi-meter to see if it is still working. First you will have to disconnect the power to your appliance and then remove the sensor. Second you will set your multi-meter to the lowest setting and then calibrate it to show zero. Take each probe of your meter and touch one to each of the prongs on your sensor. If the meter continues to show zero or infinite ohms, your sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. Good luck with your repair!
39 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jeff
November 7, 2018
In reference to response to my prior question "you will need to check the radiant Flame sensor, the thermal fuse, the thermostat, the igniter, the heater assembly and the high limit thermostat", is there documents on exactly what and how to check each of the parts referenced? Thank you again...
Hi Jeff, thank you for your question. Unfortunately no. However you would test all of those parts with a multi meter. Your radiant flame sensor, thermostats, and thermal fuses should be testing 0 ohms to be working. Your igniter should read between 50 - 400 ohms. Your heating element should read between 0 - 50 ohms. You will need to remove all of those parts before testing to have accurate results. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John
- For model number MDG2500BWW
November 28, 2018
Regarding the advice you offer on testing electrical components with a multi-meter.Testing coils is a good example as digital meters send pulses and analog meters send constant current. Coils react differently to these. Do the numbers you use apply to both digital and analog meters? I figure the ignitor and sensors do not have this (possible) issue. Tyia
Hi John,
Thank you for your question. To test a radiant flame sensor, Set a multimeter to the lowest ohms of resistance setting. The sign for ohms looks like a horseshoe, and depending on your model, this setting could be RX1, 200, 2K, or X10. Touch the probes together on an analog meter and rotate the dial on the side of the meter until the needle rest at zero on the far right of the display. Pull the wire connectors off the flame sensor terminals. Touch one multimeter probe to one of the flame sensor terminals and touch the remaining terminal with the remaining probe. If the needle sweeps to the right and rest at zero on the analog meter, or it the digital meter displays zeros, the flame sensor is good. If your meter displays any other reading, the sensor is bad and must be replaced. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dean
- For model number LDG9316AAE
October 18, 2017
The igniter lights and the gas lights and it burns for a few seconds and then kicks out. It then relights about 30-40secs later and then lights for few seconds and then out again. I have already replaced the highlimit thermostat and the two coils, but it is still performing the same way. What else could it be?
Hi Dean,
Than you for your question. I would suggest checking this part, your igniter, your thermal fuse, and your gas valve. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
5 people
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George
- For model number wgd5860sw0
January 23, 2018
Igniter doesn't come on
Hi George, Thank you for your question. I would suggest doing a couple tests on some of the main parts that usually go out in a situation like this. You can use a multi meter. I would say first test your M series coils, then your thermostats, and then your igniter, and radiant flame sensor. Those are the most common parts to go out. All of them should read 0 ohms when testing them. The igniter however should test anywhere between 50 and 400 ohms of resistance. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
5 people
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Tracy
- For model number MDG9700AWW
September 10, 2017
My dryer stopped heating. I cleaned out the lint from around the drum and it heated long enough to dry a small load. The next day it would not heat. I removed the flexible duct, and it heated for about 10 minutes. Do i need a new sensor?
Hi Tracey,
Thank you for your inquiry. It could be your sensor, I would suggest also taking a look at your fuse and your thermostats as well. If your fuse is out then your machine will not heat. If your thermostats are not working right they could be reading the wrong temperature and shutting down the machine because it thinks that it is getting too hot. Good luck with your repair.
3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wayne
- For model number Gdg608
January 24, 2020
Dry does not light, but glow plug work, is it the radiant Flame sensor
Hi Wayne. Most likely it is the igniter. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.
3 people
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Michael
- For model number 110.92822102
August 3, 2017
Keeps giving e1 code
Hi Michael,
Thank you for the question. The E1 error code indicates that there is an open Thermostat which is used as a temperature sensor. Since you can not fix those, you will have to replace it.The part number needed is PS11746740.
Hope this helps!
2 people
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Larry
- For model number MDE9700AYW
April 6, 2018
We had a company replace the heat sensor and the element , still did not work, exhaust internal in the dryer has been thoroughly cleaned out as well as the dryer vent duct to outside, another sensor put on and still does not heat?? what other part could it need??
Hello Larry, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: thermistor, thermal fuse, high limit thermostat (part# WP35001092 for an electric dryer, safety thermostat, and the electronic control board. You can test the parts with a multimeter. Hope this helps!
2 people
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Lori
- For model number NGD4700YQ0
November 27, 2017
Where are the fuses?
Hi Lori,
Thank you for your question. One of your fuses is located on your heat box on the back of your appliance, the other fuse is located on your blower wheel housing. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
2 people
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