ZSGS420DMESS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

just had to unscrew old one put the new one in

I went to the internet and found parts select web site. Saw all of the possible fixes for my problem and read all of the other repair stories. My story actually became a journey that is still continuing. I first changed the water filter, but still no water at the dispenser. I next disconnected the coupling at the bottom of the freezer door that carries water to the dispenser and when the dispenser was depressed, water flowed at the coupling, but not at the dispenser. After reconnecting the coupling, I turned the freezer setting to 1 for 4-5 days, but still no water at the dispenser (possibly the line was frozen, but we had recently been away for a week and the water dispenser still supplied water at a freezer setting of 4). Now I am at the point of the journey into replacing parts one at a time to get water. First I ordered the dual water valve for the ice maker and water dispenser. I replaced this valve with instructions from Parts Select and still no water at dispenser. Next I ordered and replaced the switch at the dispenser lever and still no water. Next was the solenoid attached to the ice door, ordered, replaced and still no water at dispenser. I am now at the final part in this repair and that is the $132 circuit board. So I will be ordering this part soon and hopefully that will fix the issue.

remove the front plate. use screwdriver to pry the cover off from the bottom of the cover, remove the wiring from the front cover.remove the 4 screws and pull out the shute. remove three screws from the solonide and replace . very easy fix. save yourself $100.00 labor.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

Cut out cracked tubing between valve and where tubing enters into refrigerator. Cut new tubing to length and attach to existing using union.

Turns out it was only the frozen water that thawed when I unplugged the fridge for 24 hours.
New part returned, not used.
Service was excellent.

I turned water off at valve and unplugged refrigerator. I removed screws to remove cardboard cover at bottom. I removed screw holding duel inlet water valve bracket and pulled out valve. Then it's just a matter of exchanging electrical connections and water lines. The electrical connections unplug and plug in-red to red and blue to blue. The water lines are two different sizes so they can't be mixed up. Then reattach bracket and cardboard cover. Turn water back on and plug back in.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

My GE SideBySide fridge stopped making ice. The green LED light on the icemaker was not blinking. The water dispenser worked fine. Fridge is only 5 years old. Freezer temp set at 7 degrees...fridge at 37 degrees. I have been using these temps since new. GE hotline suggested freezer temp should be at zero degrees. That did not work. Second call suggested an airflow issue within the freezer...there should be 1 inch space between food and back wall. Still no ice. The water valve looks to be the issue. I ordered it and got it in 2 days. Valve is in the back bottom, refridgerator side. Push the white collars around the water hoses...Then pull the hoses out. An adjustable wrench removes the nut for the inlet hose. Disconnect 2 electrical plugs. Be sure to push the water hoses fully into the new valve. I pulled the white collars out a bit to insure a tight fit. I was surprised at how simple this was to install. As it turns out, I was still getting no ice. I ordered a new ice maker and now I'm getting ice. The icemaker was EVEN EASIER to install.

I put the water hoses out the valve and put the hoses back in new valve after that put the valve in the same place with the nutdriver. When refrigerator take the temperature inside, the ice began really easy. Thank you.

removed the back cover, removed one srew that held the valve, disconnected water lines, and installed the new valve. Piece of cake!

This should have been easy, but I couldn't get the housing shield off. I removed the 4 screws but it wouldn't come off. It seemed to be stuck in the lower right. (It seems that many people have the same problem.) I decided to destroy the old one and install a new dispenser housing shield, and replace the flapper while I was at it. I finally got the shield off (by taking a pipe wrench to it and breaking it into little pieces) and discovered what the problem was: the light in the lower right had melted the plastic of the dispenser shield, which fused to the plastic of the housing! Bad design, GE! After that, it was no problem. However, I couldn't remember how to replace the microswitch. I should have taken a picture, first. Duh. Lucky for me, Parts Select had a very informative video showing how to replace the microswitch. ! was saved! Thanks, Part Select!

Replaced evaporator fan motor, and this solved the whistling noise that had developed. Reviewed and followed the removal and installation instruction video as closely as possible. This was very helpful, with a few additions. For the model PS123NGPBBB GE refrigerator/freezer, there were a few differences from the video. There a was an additional cover panel that was positioned vertically at the back of the freezer compartment below the auger motor assembly. It was necessary to remove this cover (4 screws) to gain access to the auger motor cover screws. The unit also has a different light configuration with 2 lights. I found it helpful to remove these light bulbs and the corresponding light fixtures in order to remove the evaporator motor assembly. As mentioned in the video, it was necessary to cut the 4 wires from the wire harness of the new motor, and use butt end connectors to reattach these wires to the corresponding wires in the unit. Total job took between 1 and 2 hours, and the motor change solved the noise problem.