ZSC1001KSS01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Removed the light cover screw with a Phillips screwdriver. Removed the lamps from the packaging just enough to free up the 2 prongs for fitting in the socket. Make sure the power is in the "off position". Install the bulbs one at a time by lining up the 2 sockets (Very important not to touch the halogen bulb glass surface while installing them). Energize the light switch to check operation of the new bulbs.

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

Using a phillips screwdriver I opened the panel in which the two lamps are located and easily removed the lamps. I ordered them through the internet and was pleasantly surprised when I received them the next day.

Had to use a screw driver to remove the cover to replace the bulb. Worked great and your service was great. Probably didn't take more than 5 minutes.

Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps

I replaced the TCO (fuze) through the vent opening after removing the vent cover and several small panels with a screw driver for visible access.. Some of the screws require a small offset screwdriver because of the limited access. I did not have to drop the unit from the wall over the range and was able to access through the vent opening to replace to failed TCO with a new one. The TCO is wired in-line with the power and other fuses to the unit and when it fails the enitire unit is cold with no power to lights or function of any kind. The GE service rep. said that the unit needed a new smart board but that was not the problem and they are no longer made for the older unit. I discovered the repair by looking at YouTube for repairs for the GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection combo unit.

.Shut breaker to microwave
. Remove two screws on each side of microwave cabinet frame holding it to the wood frame
. Get assistance in pulling microwave out of cabinet
.unplug power cable before pulling microwave completely out of cabinet
. Microwave has two separate panels top and sides removed all screws around frame along the door and sides
. Remove top steel panel
. Remove sides
. Locate screws around the electrical board screen just behind the front cover
. Use small flat head screwdriver to move plastic fasteners on each side of the electrical to release the board.
. Identify the LCD screen board and remove two screws on each side unplug the wire harness from the board.
. Lift LCD board off the two set pins
. Replace board
. Replace screws
. Plug harness back into board
. Reassemble electrical board back into display panel. Pay attention to re-engage the two plastic clips before replacing screws.
. Once panel is completely replaced.
. Resemble all panels in reverse order
. Test microwave before installing unit back into cabinet.

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

Removed cover
Disconnected capacitor from old magnetron
Removed old magnetron
Installed new part
Connected capacitor
Reinstalled cover

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.

Remove 1 screw, remove light bulb and replace and replace screw. No problem.

Slips in easily. Line up the tabs with the brackets and pop in.

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.