ZISB360DRI General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Turn off the water.
Unplug the refrigerator
Take the back off of the refrigerator
use socket wrenchs to undo and take off the water valve in the lower left corner of refrigerator.
Pull out and disconnect electrical connections
Pull out the 2 water tubes one for ice and 1 for water-white is water and black is ice.
install the new valve and connect the water and ice back in the new unit
connect the two power cords and reattach unit to the frame Turn water on and check for leaks.
If no leaks put back on refrigerator and plug in.
Wait 30 min to an hour for water to begin to flow back into the unit.

several times I had to remove the ice maker door solenoid due to it sticking. I ordered a new one from parts select. Problem solved!!!

I removed the outer plate by sticking a very small screwdriver in the small holes at the bottom of the plate and pulling the plate toward me.
I then removed the 4 screws from the internal plate and pulled the plate toward me.
Then I romoved the 3 screws holding the old solenoid and unplugged it.
Next I put the new solenoid in place and replaced the three screws.
Finally I plugged in the solenoid and replaced the internal and external plates.

Background: My refrigerator was part of the class action law suit back in 2006. As a result both doors, the auger in the ice maker and a heating element in the freezer were all replaced.

Problem this time: Water was not dispensing.

Solution: Replaced the double outlet water valve in the back lower left portion of the refergerator. Water was coming into it from the water filter hose, but not coming out of it when the water dispenser in the front was engaged.

Further, I found that the coils in the back of the freezer were iced up and I therefore defrosted them with a heater. Thus, the original problem encountered with the law suit, did not get fixed by simply replacing the doors. That problem is still there. I think the defroster/heating element in the freezer is again not working.

However, I do now have water flowing again and the installation was, as others have described, very easy. Thanks for the online help.

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.

Removed front panel (using small screw driver) by popping it out, disconnected wire from solenoid, removed solenoid which was rusted, 3 small philip head screws held it in place insereted new solenoid,connected wire snapped front panel back in. Clapper valve closes tightly and no frost in frezzer, saved my self a bunch of money.

I bought a Flapper replacement part from Parts Select. I installed it following their very complete on-line video directions. Their complete and easy to follow directions made my job very easy, and the work was completed without any problems and just as good as if it were done by a professional repair person. I am proud of my work, it couldn't have been done without their video insructions. Also I got delivery of the part within two days of my order. I will alway look for Parts Select any time I need an applicance repaired. Thanks to Parts Select!

Was concerned that new icemaker was quite a bit different than the one we were replacing. Called GE to confirm it was correct.

Went ahead and installed the unit, using the supplied electric cable adapter.

A little difficult to deal with the extra cable, but everything worked OK and it's making ice normally.

removed freezer door / shelf /ice maker pulled back panel off and removed fan

-Pulled refrigerator out to access back.
-Removed compressed paperboard cover.
-Found compressor running by the feel.
-Removed metal cover to control board.
-Found ~5V coming from control board to inverter (variable frequency drive) board assembly attached to compressor.
-Found ~120 going to inverter board.
-Removed inverter board assembly from compressor.
-Found equal resistance (~7 ohms for mine) at all three contacts of inverter (DC) compressor.
-Ordered inverter assembly, plus one extra and control board for possible future use so not to loose all my food again; I might order a compressor so I have it before price goes up.
-Installed inverter when arrived.
-Used air compressor to blow out accumulated dust on condenser coil.
-Closed up and cleaned up (C^2).
-Fridge cooled and back to proper temperature the next day.

unscrewed lamp and replaced it with new one!

Moved refrigerator forward, this allowed me to work on the back panel. Unplugged the refrigerator power cord. Released all 6 screws, removed panel then release an additional screw that was holding the water valve and the two (red & blue) connectors. Then installed the new part in reverse steps. Plug the unit and job well done. I had purchase the water filter already after several minutes push for water from the dispensing front part of the refrigerator and good to go, later in the evening we notice the ice maker working fine and producing ice. Thank you parts select.

I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall and turned off the water to the refrigerator and unplugged it from the wall. After removing the icebucket from the freezer I located the mounting screws, loosened them, unplugged the electrical connection below the icemaker and carefully removed it from the freezer. I unpacked the replacement icemaker, matched it against the original and attached the electrical connection adapter. Using the slots provided on the new icemaker I placed it over the mounting screws after aligning the water inlet pipe properly. I tightened the mounting screws while maintaining the icemaker in a level position. I plugged in the electrical connector. Then I replaced the icebucket, plugged in the refigerator back into the 110VAC outlet, turned on the water and repositioned the refrigerator in it's normal position.

Replace the motor fan on condenser and clean the condenser

The problem was both the valve and a frozen slug of water in the supply line located inside the door. After replacing the valve, I turned the freezer to a setting of 1 and in about 30 hours, water flowed out the tap.