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ZISB360DHC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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Ice Maker Door Leaking Air Causing Inside To Ice Up.
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joe from Kennesaw, GA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
The allan wrench pushes into the holes nder the front control plate and it pops off. Unplug the wires and set aside. Four screws removes the next piece and the "flaper" door is visable.
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Refrigerator not defrosting, ice tray clogging up in ice tray, refrigerator making loud humming noise, and compressed running all the time.
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from ROSEMOUNT, MN
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of f
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reezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.
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ice door not closing
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rick from VACAVILLE, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
looked at the video you supplied for repair.. that made it so easy to repair the problem. I felt quite confident in myself after the video.The repair went smoothly and the refridgerator wotks super thank you so much Rick
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Ice chute flapper would not close all the way
4 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from Robins, IA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Following the advice of others on this site, I popped out the control panel by pushing up through the 2 outer-most holes on the under-side of the panel (the middle hole is unused). I installed the new solenoid exactly as shown in the PartSelect video. The new crank, spring, and flapper installed easily as well; I did apply a little grease
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to the hinge points on the crank to ensure no binding. I also installed a new microswitch. The wires are best removed from the old switch with a needlenose pliers. The old switch looked like it had some grease on the switch (where it makes contact with the cup lever) so I put some grease on the new switch as well. All-in-all, very easy and the frig works like new. It's nice to hear the flapper slam shut 4 seconds after dispensing ice.
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Replace water filter with bypass plug - filter is redundant with home osmosis system
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Fred from LA QUINTA, CA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
If you have a reverse osmosis system for filtered water system in your home that also feeds the refrigerator, using another water filter in the refrigerator is redundant, so GE makes a Water filter Bypass Cap that allows you to run using the already filtered water without needing to expensive water filter. FIRST - using a phillips screw
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driver remove the toe kick plate at the bottom front of the refrigerator - two screws - one on each side of the plate that extends the entire width of the refrigerator. SECOND - Locate the water line (should be right in front) and the valve to turn off the water. Turn valve clockwise (right) until completely closed. Then test by attempting to fill a glass with water using the dispenser on the door. If any water continues to come out, continue turning the valve (without forcing it) clockwise until it has been turned as much as possible. If water still comes from dispenser, locate the source of the water line - most likely from under the kitchen sink. There should be another valve under the sink, or simply turn off (turn the cold water valve clockwise) until water cold water completely turned off. Test again as required. THIRD - clear the top right hand back shelf directly under the water filter screwed into the ceiling of the refrigerator in the rear top right side of the refrigerator. Place a small towel under the water filter, and slowly turn the filter 1/4 turn clockwise without using force. Continue turning until the full 1/4 turn is complete and the filter will drop down without pulling. Place the old filter upside down in the sink, thereby allowing the filter to drain any water present in the filter. FOURTH - remove the filter plug from package, notice notches in top of plug that align with gaps in the area where a filter would typically be screwed into the filter location in the ceiling above the top right shelf in the refrigerator. After aligning notches in the bypass plug with gaps in the screw mechanism, carefully turn the bypass plug 1/4 turn counter- clockwise - at which time the bypass plug should be firmly installed. FIFTH - Reverse step SECOND, and turn valve Counter-Clockwise until valve is completely open. Test to ensure no water is leaking from the Bypass Plug. SIXTH - Finally reverse step FIRST by reattaching the toe kick plate using the two phillips screws removed in Step FIRST. NOTE: The Bypass Plug is quite inexpensive, but after adding shipping from Canada - the cost is about the same as purchasing a new filter for the refrigerator. :-(
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The icemaker quit making ice and the water started forming on the bottom of the ice bucket.
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Anaheim, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts
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(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.
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No water through door dispenser
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roger from Colleyville, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Ama
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zing.
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Yearly replacement of filter
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Myrtle Beach, SC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Moved stuff out of my way on the top shelf, reached in and turned old filter to remove. Filled new filter with water, lined up and turned to lock in place. Whew, never thought I would get that job done. :-)
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The ice flapper would not go close .
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Shelly from WATERLOO, IN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
remove the front of were the ice and water comes out
then un scerw 4 scerw and the solenoid slides out unhook the wires and put the new one in
then un scerw 4 scerw and the solenoid slides out unhook the wires and put the new one in
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Ice flap in door wouldn't close
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Benjamin from Goldsboro, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Take the face (the part with the buttons on the outside) off, disconnect wired connectors (three), take the screws out of the part behind that (4), and then find the solenoid value (on the right). It's attached with three screws. Mine was rusted beyond belief. I knew this was the problem, ordered a new solenoid valve, put it back in pl
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ace with three screws (use new screws that fit, not the old rusty ones if possible). When testing, make sure you give the flap a couple of seconds to close. There is a delay, and I initially wasn't patient enough so I had to disassemble and assemble an extra time because of this.
Simply put: If your solenoid value is rusted and the value won't operate smoothly, order the part and install it. This is as easy as any repair could be.
Simply put: If your solenoid value is rusted and the value won't operate smoothly, order the part and install it. This is as easy as any repair could be.
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Freezer frosting up around ice dispenser chute.
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bryan from Fairfax, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Ordered new solenoid so the flap would close. That did the trick.
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Ice maker stopped making ice
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Wyckoff, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear ... Read more . Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear ... Read more . Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.
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Door flapper would not self-close
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from Los Angeles, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
I replaced the original solenoid, which had rusted into one solid piece. OMG how easy was that!
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Ice Maker Door flap would not close all the way
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Edward N from Boyds, MD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Went on this site, found out many others like me had the flap door stuck open problem, it would not shut after you went for ice. I needed a new solenoid that opens when the ice is dispenced and closes afterwards not allowing the warm ambient air to come up the shoot which frosts the ice and melts it. It shipped QUICK and now I have a work
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ing ice maker dispenser from the outside. Its been 2 YEARS of opening the door and reaching into the ice maker bin for ice! Thanks PartSelect
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Bad tasting ice cubes
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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susan from hartford, WI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Took the old filter out and put the new one in.
Easy Breezy!!
Easy Breezy!!
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