ZFSB23DRASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Unscrew the two mounting screws for the plastic vent plate on the bottom of the SS unit and take the remove the vent. Next, slide the end of the lever through the square hole in the bottom bracket and attach the hook end of the lever to one end of the lever spring. Pull on the other end of the lever spring and slip it over the spring mount finger that is a part of the bottom bracket frame. Finally,reattach the plastic vent plate with the 2 mounting screws. Total repair time was less than 15 minutes.

I did it the way you recommended except rather than removing the existing tube from the water valve at the bottom of the fridge I cut the existing and new tubes and then spliced the new tube to the old tube. I already had the splicer nut so it was quicker and easier. By the way, shipping was very quick and you prices and your website are excellent!

Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved

We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!

So I replaced a burnt out defrost heater; replaced the thermostat for good measure and STILL the freezer compartment was freezing up. WHY didn't I look more closely at the ice making system sooner!!?? Thought about it for a while and decided that it had to be that the solenoid in the water valve was NOT shutting off water flow to ice maker (overflowing the icemaker and running over & down interior of freezer compartment making an icberg).

Took off about 4-5 backcover screws with one size nut driver. Moved to a size larger driver to remove 1 screw holding on the water valve. And what some people don't realize is that you can push in the connectors (push them down) and THEN pull the water lines out as long as you're careful and someone hasn't already tugged on the waterlines with some force. You don't have to cut the lines off at the valve. Put the water lines in the new valve and put one screw back in it; then 4-5 backcover screws and you're done!!! At most 15 minutes...that is if you want to clean the condensor unit located behind the backcover (on the newer models within the last 4-6 years).

EASY!!! Do it yourself and save a BUNCH of money. If you're getting a flooded freezer compartment or icebergs created in there then check whenever you hear the icemaker drawing in water and see if water is running down the interior.....problem solved!

Your website was very easy to use and the product shipped very promptly. It was great experience. Thanks!

just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours

I removed the screws for the inner door and removed inner lining. Then took out the ice dispenser in the door. Took off control panel on the front of the ice panel. Removed the rusted parts and put in new parts. Put all parts back the way it came apart. In retrospect.... I could have possibly replaced the parts from the front panel but by taking apart the door...I had to thaw out the inner panel and insulation with in the door.

Removed the front panel on the door that has the ice maker controls. Removed the screws and parts. Reassembled the parts and it works better than new. Ice door closes firmly and holds tight.

The ice machine auger blade broke a chunk off. I decided to try to replace it myself. I bought the new auger blade and then sat there and stared at it and the ice machine for a few, trying to figure out how to change out the part. Turns out it was a qute lengthy process. The auger is threaded on one end and the ice chopping blades are on it. So I had to take each blade off the old one and put it on the new one. The blades have to be positioned just right on the shaft so it's best to just draw a line down over all the blades so as to put them on the new auger successfully. The problem I had was the end cap that screwed on the end of the shaft. It was the part I ordered here. It is made of plastic with plastic threads and at first I couldn't figure out to get it off. Turns out the threads are opposite normal. By the time I figured that out, I had just about destroyed the cap using pliers to try to unscrew it. There is a washer and half moon clip that fastens on this end nut so if you mess the nut up, chances are you won't be able to get the half moon clip to go back on. I finally did it right and now how the ice maker working right again. A hard part for me was figuring out how to set the spring shaft that works a lever to either give cubed ice or crushed. I had to keep fiddle with it before I finally got that right. At first I was only getting crushed ice even with the cubed setting and then only getting cubed ice with the crushed ice setting. After some fiddling, I got both to work but to this day can't figure out what changes from the crushed setting to the cubed setting.

First, I removed all the shelves and the light guard. Second, I removed the nuts that held the fan guard and the freezer back in place (2 just under the fan guard and removed the freezer back. Third, lifted fan guard out of way (being very careful not to crack it..... cold plastic). Fourth, unpugged fan from pug then removed nuts that held fan bracket in place...removed fan. fifth, then removed fan blade and remove fan motor from bracket, removed two wires that went to freezer light (pay attention to where they go) and installed them into the new wireing harness. Sixth, installed fan blade on new motor, bolted new assembly in fan bracket, plugged in and reistalled fan into the freezer, replaced fan guard and freezer back (reverse order of above) and then replaced freezer racks. works beautiful.

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

Replaced ice maker. Required the removal of one screw and disconecting the control cable.

I had taken the noise long enough and wanted to get this repaired. I didn't want to pay a repair man hundreds of dollars to do it so i decided to do it myself. I went on to YouTube and found a few videos that showed me how easy it was to do (very helpful).

I wasn't so sure all that noise would come from the Evaporator Fan motor so i ordered it and took the chance. For the small cost, it was worth the try.

All went well accessing the unit and removing the old part. Very fast indeed. However, the snag came when i went to plug in the new part electrical to the existing electrical adapters. The old part had 4 lead connections. The new part had 6. and the wires on the new part were different colors than the existing. I had to use some logic and courage to cut the wires on the new part and rewire the old adapter to this piece. Luckily, i wired everything correctly.

Calling Part Select got me a phone number for the parts manufacturer to help with the splicing but i opted to do it on my own.

The result is i have a noiseless refrigerator again. What should have taken 10 to 15 minutes took half an hour because of the wiring but overall, very easy.

There were not detailed instructions provided with the parts, however, it was fairly simple to determine how to remove the old part. First, I removed all the shelves. Then I took out four screws holding the top light cover. The plasic around the back center column was removed with a pannel tool. The plastic around the water filter was also removed. The old Fresh Food Air Inlet was then able to come out. Remove the connector. Reinstall per instructions provided. Install the other parts in order they were removed.