ZEK7500SH2SS General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two he ... Read more x head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.

My less than 2 year double wall oven was showing a F97 on the right hand side of display screen on my oven, indicating to me it was a lower cooling fan issue. Purchased the parts after a lot of research (and a GE technician telling me over the phone it would be a 600 or more costly repair). I decided to bite the bullet and just do it mys ... Read more elf to save money! I’m glad I did! I built a table for it to rest on after it got it out of the wall as it’s a heavy oven. I asked my dad to help me get it out and onto the stand. After that, it was a matter of getting to the lower fan through the back abs having to remove some panels. All went well and best part is this fixed it! I figure even if it goes out again in 2 years it’s still cheaper than paying a technician to do it! I’m a woman with zero background in repair but lots of determination and desire to save money! Just do it yourself!

After opening the Oven door, I removed the glass cover to view and locate the bulb, at the inside, top front of the Oven. Removed the burnt out bulb by pulling it in a forward motion towards the front of the Oven, slid the new bulb into place and the Oven is again functional.

I used a Trox bit to remove one screw, replaced the oven sensor and reinstalled the screw. The whole project took less than 5 minutes.

I ordered the fan and the sensor. I had to pull the whole oven out anyway, why not replace both. Bought a piano dolly at Harbor Freight so I could set the oven on something while it was out of the hole. Make sure and remove the oven doors and racks prior to pulling it out. I was not able by myself. A neighbor had to assist. The fan and se ... Read more nsor are located mid-way up the middle of the rear panel. I just take pictures with my phone as I disassemble so I have a roadmap for reassembly. Once I plugged the fan and sensor in I tested the oven while still out of the hole. I used the vegetable oil to provide a little lubrication to the runners while sliding the oven back in. Works like a charm.

Replaced upper cooling fan and board on double oven by removing covers on top and back.

My oven continued showing code F97 when we tried to use it. It would clear sometimes in a minute or 10 min. After some research, I figured it had something to do with the upper and lower cooling fans or the associated circuit boards. These fans send a signal (2.5volts I think) back to the main board identifying they are running correctly ... Read more (fast enough). If the fans fail to get to required speed, CODE F97 appears. So, purchased both upper and lower fan units along with the corresponding circuit boards and decided to get it a shot. For a $8K oven, I had to try something.

You have to replace the items from the rear. Oven is 360+ lbs., So I purchased a lift from Harbor Freight to support the oven when I pulled it out. Once on the lift and the rear exposed, job was fairly easy.

Just remove the top and rear upper and lower panels, access the fans (circuit boards are attached to the fan housings) and replace with new. 1 hour tops for the entire job. My fans were working, but grease and dust had accumulated on the fins which I fell was my problem. Also, spinning them by hand compared to the new fans showed some drag on the old fans. It could have been a faulty circuit board, but I think it was the fans. The lift is a game changer and really makes this job not too bad.

It's been a week since repair, no F97!!! Ovens works great again!!

there was one screw holding it on the back wall of the oven. It was easy enough that my daughter installed it with my guidance.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the ... Read more plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

Removed screws from front of oven, placed a table under oven 2” below, places two rollers on table and pulled out the oven. Removed screws, replaced fan and reassembled. Move into place and secured front. Cleared faults and worked perfectly.

Opened the screws holding the handle of the door, then insert the new glass and retighten the screws holding the handle back in place.

Remove oven light lens cover, remove the bulb and replace it with a new one.

Changed the Temperature Sensor as you suggested, but the problem of 40 minutes to reach a temperature of 375 degrees F. remained the same.