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YGY398LXPQ03 Whirlpool Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Broiler was not heating
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Anita from Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
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Screw drivers
I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I di
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d not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.
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fuse blew for the fifth time
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Karen from Moffit, ND
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most
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difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?
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The 9" Large Surface Element was not heating-burned out
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Robert from Bolivia, NC
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
First turn off breakers for cooktop. Reached undereneath the cooktop and pushed it out and set on the counter. (1) unscrewed the frame holding the glass and removed it. (2) pulled glass off. (3) Unhooked the burned out element after identifying wire connections so I could connect the new element correctly. (4) Put the glass back on the f
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rame. (5) Placed the frame over the glass and screwed it back to to frame. (6) Moved cooktop back into place. (7) Turned breakers back on and turned element on and it was operational. It was a very easy job.
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The left rear burner had stopped heating.
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Louis from Morgan, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
1. I ordered a replacement heater element from Parts Select, which arrived in just 3 days at my home. 2. I turned off the main circuit breaker to the range. 3. There are two small sheet metal screws inside the top left and right side of the oven door frame which need to be removed first in order to lift and remove the burner top from t
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he range. 4. After lifting and pulling the burner top toward me about 6 inches, I unplugged the left and right burner assembly wiring harness connectors. 5. I lifted the burner top assembly off the stove and turned it upside down an a table. 6. There are six sheet metal screws that need to be removed to allow the sheet metal panel holding the heater assemblies to be lifted off and then also set upside down on a table top. All five burner elements are now visible. 7. Disconnect the slip-on electrical connectors to the specific heater assembly that is defective. 8. Unscrew the three small sheet metal screws from the three spring clips that support the heater assembly on the sheet metal panel; re-attach the spring clips to the new heater assembly. NOTE: Either memorize or record the position numbers that are cast into the ceramic housing of the burner to replace the new burner in exactly the same position. 9. Insert the three spring clips back into the sheet metal panel where the old, defective burner assembly had been removed. 10. Re-connect the slip-on wire clips to the new heater assembly in the same position as they were removed from the defective heater assembly. 11. Turn over the sheet metal panel with the burner assemblies attached and replace the sheet metal screws holding the panel to the stove top. 12. Turn over the stove top assembly and set back onto the range allowing space to reach to the back and re-connect the polarized connectors to the left and right side burners. 13. Slide the stove top back to the rear and carefully lower the front edge back down with the two metal tabs inserted back into the oven door frame. 14. Re-install the two sheet metal screws that hold down the stove top. 15. Turn on the main circuit breaker to the range. 16. Carefully test the new heater assembly by turning the range control knob to LO heat and watch for the stove top burner to momentarily turn red with heat. 17. Turn off the range control knob. 18. You are finished. It was a very easy installation.
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Surface Element burned out
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Hong from Blaine, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Opened the range surface, changed the large surface element. One of the wire was different to unplug. Need someone else to hold the panel. It was not a tough job.
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"Hot burner" Light always On
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Stephanie from Phoenix, AZ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
It's easier with two people.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds t ... Read more he elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds t ... Read more he elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.
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Oven would not heat after self-clean
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Robert from Sacramento, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
I found several posts about Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens having this problem and most of the time this required a replacement of the thermal fuse. Other than the large number of screws to remove the oven and the sheet metal coverings, replacing the fuse was mostly about waiting to get the part. If I had a local dealer with the fuse, I proba
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bly could have been baking Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake that same evening. Even so, this particular repair should be left to those familiar with doing moderate-level handyman type repairs. You have to make sure the breaker is off and beware of the sharp edges on sheet metal. Fortunately, the fuse was easy to find using online documentation for my model. Part Select was very helpful when my original order did not arrive. Their customer service was great!
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The top oven of a double oven would not heat up
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Angi from Oriental, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was work
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ing. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.
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The Terminel Bloc Overheated And The Bloc Melted Causing The Stove To Cease Fukshioning
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Joseph from Channelview, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
R&r
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Worn and discolored oven door gasket
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John from Fort Worth, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed retainer screw and retainer. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket, retainer, and retainer screw. Very simple job.
Other Parts Used:
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No Heat After Self Cleaning
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Rubie from Elgin, SC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using
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reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.
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After using the self cleaning cycle, oven would not work
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Tommy from Murchison, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.
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)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.
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No operation after cleaning
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Rod from Dripping Springs, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced
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the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.
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burner not heating up
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David from Herriman, UT
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
first I checked continuity through the surface element (burner) switch (rheostat) which was fine. then found the screws holding the burner top on and removed, this made it possible to lift up the burner top and remove the burnt out surface element.which was easy to see. take down the number, buy a new one and re hook up the four wires to
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the new element. (always mark down where the wires went)
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Wiring Block shorted due to moisture and Stove had no Power
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John from Roberts, MT
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This was very straight forward. Once the sheet metal shroud on the back side was removed just had to undo the one remaining wire, remove the block, and reassemble. Only question I had was which wires went where. The Wiring Block was melted due to the short and the wires were no longer attached. Did a quick google for a typical oven three-
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wire install and that did the trick.
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