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YGY398LXPQ01 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the YGY398LXPQ01
106 - 120 of 192

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Both outside door handles turned very beige
23 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Howard from Boynton Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discol oring refer handles. Thank you
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Oven would not heat after self cleaning operation
  • Bruce from Des Moines, IA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I t hought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.
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inner glass broken; fan not engaging
  • robynn from Newcastle, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Door repair assembly was simple, did without any instructions or manuals. Fan assembly, the actual fan replacement was easy, it was the number of pieces of metal that needed to be removed i order to get the main rear panel off to access. Also had to remove panel from inside the oven; requires two people to loosen screws from inside whil e the other person holds the fan assembly from the rear side of the oven. Didn't have any instructions for this task either, figured it out anyway, just follow the layers.
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Broiler was not heating
  • Anita from Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I di d not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.
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fuse blew for the fifth time
  • Karen from Moffit, ND
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?
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The 9" Large Surface Element was not heating-burned out
  • Robert from Bolivia, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
First turn off breakers for cooktop. Reached undereneath the cooktop and pushed it out and set on the counter. (1) unscrewed the frame holding the glass and removed it. (2) pulled glass off. (3) Unhooked the burned out element after identifying wire connections so I could connect the new element correctly. (4) Put the glass back on the f rame. (5) Placed the frame over the glass and screwed it back to to frame. (6) Moved cooktop back into place. (7) Turned breakers back on and turned element on and it was operational. It was a very easy job.
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burner not heating up
  • David from Herriman, UT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
first I checked continuity through the surface element (burner) switch (rheostat) which was fine. then found the screws holding the burner top on and removed, this made it possible to lift up the burner top and remove the burnt out surface element.which was easy to see. take down the number, buy a new one and re hook up the four wires to the new element. (always mark down where the wires went)
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Surface Element burned out
  • Hong from Blaine, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Opened the range surface, changed the large surface element. One of the wire was different to unplug. Need someone else to hold the panel. It was not a tough job.
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"Hot burner" Light always On
  • Stephanie from Phoenix, AZ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
It's easier with two people.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds t he elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.
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The left rear burner had stopped heating.
  • Louis from Morgan, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. I ordered a replacement heater element from Parts Select, which arrived in just 3 days at my home. 2. I turned off the main circuit breaker to the range. 3. There are two small sheet metal screws inside the top left and right side of the oven door frame which need to be removed first in order to lift and remove the burner top from t he range. 4. After lifting and pulling the burner top toward me about 6 inches, I unplugged the left and right burner assembly wiring harness connectors. 5. I lifted the burner top assembly off the stove and turned it upside down an a table. 6. There are six sheet metal screws that need to be removed to allow the sheet metal panel holding the heater assemblies to be lifted off and then also set upside down on a table top. All five burner elements are now visible. 7. Disconnect the slip-on electrical connectors to the specific heater assembly that is defective. 8. Unscrew the three small sheet metal screws from the three spring clips that support the heater assembly on the sheet metal panel; re-attach the spring clips to the new heater assembly. NOTE: Either memorize or record the position numbers that are cast into the ceramic housing of the burner to replace the new burner in exactly the same position. 9. Insert the three spring clips back into the sheet metal panel where the old, defective burner assembly had been removed. 10. Re-connect the slip-on wire clips to the new heater assembly in the same position as they were removed from the defective heater assembly. 11. Turn over the sheet metal panel with the burner assemblies attached and replace the sheet metal screws holding the panel to the stove top. 12. Turn over the stove top assembly and set back onto the range allowing space to reach to the back and re-connect the polarized connectors to the left and right side burners. 13. Slide the stove top back to the rear and carefully lower the front edge back down with the two metal tabs inserted back into the oven door frame. 14. Re-install the two sheet metal screws that hold down the stove top. 15. Turn on the main circuit breaker to the range. 16. Carefully test the new heater assembly by turning the range control knob to LO heat and watch for the stove top burner to momentarily turn red with heat. 17. Turn off the range control knob. 18. You are finished. It was a very easy installation.
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Surface element was out
  • Veronica from Midlothian, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnect the power.took the cooktop off the range. Turned it over. Removed the underside plate. Disconnected the bad element. Pluged inthe new element. Replaced the under plate. Reconnected the range to the stovetop .put cooktop in place. Reattached screws. Turned on power. Worked perfectly.
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Beingold the glass top stuck hard
  • Mansukhlal Dayabhai from Moultrie, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
unscrew 3 screws under the control panel and pull that away from the glass top making sure the wires don't come apart from the connectors. care fully slide the glass forward and replace the burner which was the easy part. DO NOT try to test without making sure that none of the burner are touching the metal surface!!!!!!!! it will trip you r breaker. But now we have a range with 4 burner after a year THANKS
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range installer broke a screw off & busted the plastic piece
  • Christina from West Des Moines, IA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one
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Oven Would Not Heat
  • JOSEPH from FLORIDA, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.
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oven would not heat up in bake or broil
  • Tom from Fallston, MD
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.
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All Instructions for the YGY398LXPQ01
106 - 120 of 192