YG204KA Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions
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No Power
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Berlin Hts., OH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
(Electric) I opened the lid and propped it back on wall. The first piece was located all the way in the back mounted toward you. Easy enough. When it came to the thermal fuse, it was a bit trickier. It's located on the right side of the heating element wall. There is a screw straight on top of the wall. Mine was covered in lint, he
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nce the thermal repair work:) Take the screw all the way out. The fuse is removed by lifting out the thermal fuse mounting bracket. Nothing special holding it in place. Just put the new one in the same way the old one came out. It was a bit difficult to wiggle the bracket back in, but I kept playing enough and it finally lost the battle. Put the screw back in, taking care to make sure it threads on top of the bracket to secure it against the heater element wall. Worked for me! Thanks everyone.
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blower wheel broken
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Aaron from Santa Rosa, AL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
unplugged the dryer.
opened it up.
unscrewed the housing that was holding the blower wheel.
removed the broken blower wheel.
placed the blower wheel on the shaft.
got a socket wrench and an extender to tap the blower wheel into place. I put a towel over the socket wrench so as to be gentle on the blower wheel. I ... Read more tapped it down until I could fee the grove on the shaft where the washer used to go to hold in the old blower wheel (the new one has enough grip on its own to stay put).
put the housing back on after doing a few spin tests to make sure the blower wheel was spinning freely.
did some spin tests after putting the housing back on.
reassembled the dryer, plugged it in.
turned it on to test again.
done.
opened it up.
unscrewed the housing that was holding the blower wheel.
removed the broken blower wheel.
placed the blower wheel on the shaft.
got a socket wrench and an extender to tap the blower wheel into place. I put a towel over the socket wrench so as to be gentle on the blower wheel. I ... Read more tapped it down until I could fee the grove on the shaft where the washer used to go to hold in the old blower wheel (the new one has enough grip on its own to stay put).
put the housing back on after doing a few spin tests to make sure the blower wheel was spinning freely.
did some spin tests after putting the housing back on.
reassembled the dryer, plugged it in.
turned it on to test again.
done.
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Broken Lint Duct tearing clothes and collecting large amounts of lint
7 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kathleen from Belmont, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
After reading the comments of on-line customers, I realized the dryer opens like the hood of a car and then you pull the front of the dryer door off in order to get to the two screws holding the old lint duct housing unit. Putting the new part on was easier, but I would have appreciated a detailed picture along with the written instructi
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ons. Thank you for your quick delivery. Kathleen Yosso
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Blower wheel broke and makeing loud clunking noise
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lawrence from Clifton Forge, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1st thing,,,,unplug dryer from electric,,,Raised the top of dryer, took 2 screws out that held front of dryer on, removed 3 wires and dropped front of dryer. exposed blower wheel,, removed all nuts holding front of blower wheel, removed clamp on front of wheel with pliers, removed old wheel, replaced everything in reverse.
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Part cracked and clothes were getting caught
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cathy from Dallastown, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I removed the screws that held the part in place, but this proved to be the hardest part for me. I had to find the right kind of screw driver . It was not a slotted or Phillips. It was more star shaped. Once I had the right tool, the rest was pretty easy.
I then opened the top of the dryer to be able to lay the front on th ... Read more e floor. There were wires connected to the front, however, so I had to remove the part that the wires were connected to by slipping it out of the bracket that held it in place. Once the front panel was on the floor, I simply lifted the old part out and placed the new part in. I closed the front, replacing the part with wires back into the bracket, locked the top down tight, replaced the screws, and I was finished.
I then opened the top of the dryer to be able to lay the front on th ... Read more e floor. There were wires connected to the front, however, so I had to remove the part that the wires were connected to by slipping it out of the bracket that held it in place. Once the front panel was on the floor, I simply lifted the old part out and placed the new part in. I closed the front, replacing the part with wires back into the bracket, locked the top down tight, replaced the screws, and I was finished.
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Dryer got hot then heat would shut off
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Douglas from Fernley, NV
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and r
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everse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.
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Stopped running entirely.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from Mesa, AZ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
My dryer stopped cold one day, we rushed out and bought a new one. Stuck with a broken dryer I thought I'd take a shot at fixing it (with zero experience). After a few minutes on the internet I found out that a clogged vent can cause it to overheat and blow the fuse. I opened it up and sure enough it was 100% clogged. I replaced the p
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arts that came in the kit and after about 20min it was running like a champ. Now what do I do with the extra dryer?
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No power, no light, Thermal/high limit fuses blown
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Monroe, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Open the lid, replaced the small fuse on top( one wire at a time). Removed the heating element, then replaced the lower fuse and re-installed the heating element. That part of the job took 15 minutes. The fuses were blown because the plastic housing inside of the front panel was completely clogged. I took the two screws off holding th
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e front panel on, then the two torque screws on the plastic housing. I cleaned a ton of lint out of the housing and re-assembled.
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not drying all the way, not getting hot enough
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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robert from cedar lake, AL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on
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Motor froze up
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Randy from Loganville, GA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First lift the top and remove 2 screws holding the front panel on, at each top corner. Release the door switch from its clip (or disconnect the wires). Remove the front panel by tilting out and then lifting it up off the bottom tabs. Remove the belt from the motor by releasing the tensioner. Then lift the drum out. Remove the front blower
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cover, then remove the tensioner by first removing the spring, then pull the tensioner out toward the back. Remove the strap on the back of the motor near the pulley. It takes a little effort to get the strap off. Remove the 3 bolts holding the blower case (with the motor still attached. Remove the motor wires, then lift the motor and blower case out. Next remove the clip holding the blower fan on and remove the fan. It may be stubborn so be patient and slowly work it off. Remove the next clip behind the fan. Then remove the motor from the blower case by turning it counter clockwise (as viewed from the motor side). Installation is the reverse.
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Dryer would only heat at start up for one cycle
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rob from Henderson, NV
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no o
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hm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!
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Dryer Spinsbut does not Dry!!!!
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Felix from Plano, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Quick fix it works
remove the two screws holding the top from the back. Pull out the top section with the knobs
You should now be able to see the high limit fuse and the heating element.
Remove the two screws holding the fuse to the dryer. Replace the fuse and test before covering.
Also clean up the heating element w ... Read more ith a soft brush or blower.
remove the two screws holding the top from the back. Pull out the top section with the knobs
You should now be able to see the high limit fuse and the heating element.
Remove the two screws holding the fuse to the dryer. Replace the fuse and test before covering.
Also clean up the heating element w ... Read more ith a soft brush or blower.
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Dryer would not heat up properly. It would heat initially but once the heat was off it would not come on again.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Chicago, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (a
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nd the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.
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Originally Noisey While Running
7 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from Park Hills, MO
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplugged electric, turned off gas valve. Opened top using a putty knife, laid it gently back against the wall for support. Removed 2 screws holding front on-leaned front out about 3-4 inches- while holding front with my knees I disconnected door switch wires.-then removed front panel. Followed instructions on maintenance sheet glued o
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n underside of dryer top (Lucky it was there). Took tension off drive belt. Removed belt and drum following instructions on lid sheet. Removed old slides (worn out) Installed new pads & slides. Vacuumed out all lint/dust/dirt I could reach, Cheked rear drum rollers. Reinstalled everything that I had removed. It took extra time to do everything because dryer was in tight space, little working space. Turned gas on, plugged in electric cord. Worked great now.
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Dryer sounded like a garbage truck.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Philip from Granite Bay, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The support roller broke and that made the noise as the rubber came off the wheel. It took about 8 months before the belt finally broke. Since I had it apart I decided to change both the drum felt seals and idler pulley wheel. I had trouble finding high temperature adhesive for the drum felt seal. Lowe's and Home depot didn't have anyt
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hing that indicated it would take the heat. Finally located an adhesive at a craft store and the label claimed it was good on washers and dryers. Although I was able to glue and stretch the felt onto the dryer by myself if you have two people it will be alot easier. My dryer had made so much noise for so long I couldn't believe how quiet it is now.
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