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YE209KVC Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the YE209KVC
46 - 60 of 643

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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blower wheel broken
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aaron from Santa Rosa, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
unplugged the dryer.
opened it up.
unscrewed the housing that was holding the blower wheel.
removed the broken blower wheel.
placed the blower wheel on the shaft.
got a socket wrench and an extender to tap the blower wheel into place. I put a towel over the socket wrench so as to be gentle on the blower wheel. I tapped it down until I could fee the grove on the shaft where the washer used to go to hold in the old blower wheel (the new one has enough grip on its own to stay put).
put the housing back on after doing a few spin tests to make sure the blower wheel was spinning freely.
did some spin tests after putting the housing back on.
reassembled the dryer, plugged it in.
turned it on to test again.
done.
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Broken Lint Duct tearing clothes and collecting large amounts of lint
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kathleen from Belmont, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
After reading the comments of on-line customers, I realized the dryer opens like the hood of a car and then you pull the front of the dryer door off in order to get to the two screws holding the old lint duct housing unit. Putting the new part on was easier, but I would have appreciated a detailed picture along with the written instructi ons. Thank you for your quick delivery. Kathleen Yosso
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Part cracked and clothes were getting caught
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cathy from Dallastown, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the screws that held the part in place, but this proved to be the hardest part for me. I had to find the right kind of screw driver . It was not a slotted or Phillips. It was more star shaped. Once I had the right tool, the rest was pretty easy.
I then opened the top of the dryer to be able to lay the front on th e floor. There were wires connected to the front, however, so I had to remove the part that the wires were connected to by slipping it out of the bracket that held it in place. Once the front panel was on the floor, I simply lifted the old part out and placed the new part in. I closed the front, replacing the part with wires back into the bracket, locked the top down tight, replaced the screws, and I was finished.
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Motor froze up
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randy from Loganville, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First lift the top and remove 2 screws holding the front panel on, at each top corner. Release the door switch from its clip (or disconnect the wires). Remove the front panel by tilting out and then lifting it up off the bottom tabs. Remove the belt from the motor by releasing the tensioner. Then lift the drum out. Remove the front blower cover, then remove the tensioner by first removing the spring, then pull the tensioner out toward the back. Remove the strap on the back of the motor near the pulley. It takes a little effort to get the strap off. Remove the 3 bolts holding the blower case (with the motor still attached. Remove the motor wires, then lift the motor and blower case out. Next remove the clip holding the blower fan on and remove the fan. It may be stubborn so be patient and slowly work it off. Remove the next clip behind the fan. Then remove the motor from the blower case by turning it counter clockwise (as viewed from the motor side). Installation is the reverse.
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Dryer lost heat
9 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Fulshear, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Was obvious what the problem was when dryer lost heat. Thermostat was fried with one contact burned off.
Unplugged dryer
Opened top of dryer using putty knife to release latches.
Removed 2 wires to Therostat, and removed the old one (2 1/4 hex screws).
Installed new thermostat, and reconected.
Done
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Originally Noisey While Running
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Park Hills, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplugged electric, turned off gas valve. Opened top using a putty knife, laid it gently back against the wall for support. Removed 2 screws holding front on-leaned front out about 3-4 inches- while holding front with my knees I disconnected door switch wires.-then removed front panel. Followed instructions on maintenance sheet glued o n underside of dryer top (Lucky it was there). Took tension off drive belt. Removed belt and drum following instructions on lid sheet. Removed old slides (worn out) Installed new pads & slides. Vacuumed out all lint/dust/dirt I could reach, Cheked rear drum rollers. Reinstalled everything that I had removed. It took extra time to do everything because dryer was in tight space, little working space. Turned gas on, plugged in electric cord. Worked great now.
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squealing/squeaking noise
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Damon from Chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
It took me a bit to figure out how to get the outer case to come apart (there are two spring-loaded latches under the front edge of the lid, had to insert a putty knife at just the right spot then lift up the lid). Once it was taken apart, I manually spun the drum to see where the noise was coming from and it was obviously coming from on e of the two wheels that support the rear of the drum. Took out the drum after sliding the belt off and replacing the wheels was a piece of cake. They are held on by E-clip style retaining rings, which I destroyed when removing them with a pair of pliers. Luckily the new set comes with new retaining rings, along with the required washers and spacers. I also replaced the metal pins that the wheels spin on, since mine were showing wear and I wanted to make sure it wasn't going to keep squealing after I was done! All in all it was pretty easy! Before you take the belt off, make sure you take note of how the belt winds around the tension wheel so that you put it back on correctly! My girlfriend was VERY impressed that I was able to fix her dryer for about 1/10 of what it would have cost to get a new one!
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My lint filter had developed holes.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from Oak Park, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
It was supper easy. I was able to order the correct part from the detailed description you provided. I just opened it and slid it into the slot for a perfect fit.

I wish I had done it sooner. My filter had holes in it for some time.
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drum wouldn't turn
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lisa from Woodstock, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Pro blem!
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Noise when running and motor stop. Motor bearing overheated.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Rogers City, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplug dryer

Pick the top up at the front and swing up. Inside each side of the front is a screw to remove. Do not forget to unhook the door switch wires. Pull the drum. Push belt off as you remove the drum. Works better to reach in at the lower right and take the belt off of the tighener first.

After you clean o ut any lint in area unplug the wires from the motor and snap off the hold down clamp on the back bearing.

The blower needs to be released fromt he shaft. The snap ring in front of the blower needs to be taken off. This can be done with a screw driver by prying off the flat spot on the shaft. However, a snap ring pliers would be better. The front of the blower housing must come off as the blower must come off. There is a snap ring behind the blower that must come off also.

The biggest problem I had was removing the front motor bearing housing from the plastic blower housing. It is easy once you see that the front bearing housing is held in by four tabs in the plastic housing. By rotating the front bearing housing 90 degrees you will be able to pull it out.

From there just reverse your action. The belt went on ok. I found by putinng the belt on the drum and the motor drive pully first I was able to reach in an put the belt over the tighener.
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drum slide worn out
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from GORHAM, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
removed front cover, lifted drum up with a clamp and replaced slides. Replaced front cover
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Female End Of The Door Catch Broke
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tara from North Canton, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--
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Broken Catch
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from LARAMIE, WY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Watch the video. Very, very easy
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hole in lint filter
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • vernon from chowchilla, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
ordered lint filter and it was here the next day.
GREATE SERVICE!!!!
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The dryer door latch was broken.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Memphis, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.
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All Instructions for the YE209KVC
46 - 60 of 643