XSS25GGPFCBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

we just pried out the old switch and pulled it out the rest of the way with a pair of needle nose pliers. Pulled off the wires on the broken switch and reattached to the new one and just slid/clicked it back into the hole.

Replaced gasket. No tools requires. Just pull the old one out and press new one in channel with hands. TIP: heat the new one slightly with a hair dryer or a heat gun on low. Makes it more flexible

I lifted the old switch with a flat screwdriver, attached wires, and popped into place. Saved 80 bucks for a repair call.

Repair took about 5 seconds. No directions necessary. Super easy.

Unscrew the two mounting screws for the plastic vent plate on the bottom of the SS unit and take the remove the vent. Next, slide the end of the lever through the square hole in the bottom bracket and attach the hook end of the lever to one end of the lever spring. Pull on the other end of the lever spring and slip it over the spring mount finger that is a part of the bottom bracket frame. Finally,reattach the plastic vent plate with the 2 mounting screws. Total repair time was less than 15 minutes.

The PS11767930 BOARD LED LIGHT Assembly was an exact match to the one that had gone bad. First, I removed the shelf above the light cover and items on it. Next, remove the top 1/2 in phillips head screw holding the light cover in place. Next, pop off the light cover(2 slots on each side and 2 on back freezer wall. Next I popped off the plastic snap on holder at the end of the wires that contained the board LED lights. Then remove the wire plastic connection by holding it with needle nose pliers and a small screwdriver to lift up the plastic snap in connector. Take the new board and attach it just like you removed the old one. Let there be light! And so it was.

Two tabs hold the switch in place. I used a plastic wedge to remove the switch. Removed and replaced the two connectors held in by friction. Painless.

Just pop the old one out, careful not to lose the wiring inside the ref wall & popped the new one in.

Because the lever was broken, when you close the refrigerator door, the freezer door would unseal slightly causing frost to build up on the inside and outside of the door.

After removing the base grille, the repair was made by simply placing the new part in the slot where the old part was then re-attaching the spring from the part to the hook in the base of the refrigerator. Now replace the base grille with the two screws. Time: About 10 minutes. Tools: Phillips screwdriver, needle nose pliers.

Part arrived in 2 days and took about 15 seconds to install. Great!! No more broken eggs!!

I popped the switch out using the blade of a small screwdriver and noticed that it connected with two wires via a slide on connector for each one. I noted the info on the old switch to identify which wire went to which terminal. I held each wire with a pair of pliers while I pulled the wire connector off the terminal on the old switch. I connected the two wires to the correct terminals on the new swith, and popped the switch back into the door frame. Easy, easy, easy and saved the $40 service call + parts cost!

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

I received part. I then used a hair dryer to smooth out kinks. Took about 15 minutes. Pulled off old gasket and replaced with new one. Used hands only.

Checked to make sure water was going to the fridge and it was. Removed the 1st line after the valve and no water was present. Figured the valve was bad. Removed the wires to the old valve and also had to remove the wire harness on the new valve. It wasn't needed. Replaced the valve and installed the old wires. Hooked up the water line and instantly had water. A day later I had a full ice bucket. This part wasn't listed on GE website. But it was on partselect.com.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing