XSS23GYPECFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

replaced with new one

It really was as simple as the other folks noted. Slid a screwdriver into the edge of the broken switch and it popped right out. Disconnected and reconnected each of the two wires and just slid the switch back into the slot. Truly a DIY fix.

Replaced light switch. Defrost cycle remains suspect but refrigerator has worked OK for about 10 days.

Things fall out of my refrigerator frequently thus the broken lite switch. Thought tape would solve until new part arrived. Thank goodness part came the next day as even with tape on and door close and light bulbs removed fridge read door as open and would not cool It is programmed not to run with door open. Within 24 hours part was del ... Read more ivered, unbelievable . It was that fast. Easy insertion and plugged in to the wiring and my refridge once more recognized the door was shut and began cooling. Thanks again

Snapped the new door into place.

pulled out the old shelf/drawer frame and replaced with new one. Easy fix.

Solenoid pushing the crushed ice flapper was burned out. Solenoid was easy to find unplug and replace. I used the old piston which simplified things. Now works great

Used a small screw driver to remove the damaged switch. Carefully unhooked the two wires and hooked the wires to the new switch. Pushed the new switch into place. Be careful that the wires do not pull back into the refrigerator wall. Took about 15 minutes. Works like New. Easy fix.

Pried out the old light switch, disconnected electrical, reconnected electrical in new switch, pushed new switch back into door.

Pried the switch on the bottom with a flathead screwdriver, twisted it and the switch came out far enough to take it out by hand. The bottom of the switch has to be raised upward a little because the connectors are on top of the switch. Changed the wires from the old switch to the new one, one at a time. Insert the new switch. Saved a re ... Read more pair call, and probably a more expensive switch. Less then 15 minutes.

Really easy- turned off ice maker, powered down appliance briefly. Removed ice maker by removing 3 screws with 1/4 nut driver. Unplugged ice maker from power supply. Removed and replaced solenoid arm assembly. Reversed steps and whammy - ice cubes dropped.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and ... Read more saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Removed ice select control unite from freezer by removing 3 nut screws holding unite in place. Disconnect 2 electrial plug ins.Remove unite from freezer and place on table for easy work space. Remove 4 nut screws holding Solenoid & Arm. Replace with new Solenoid & Arm. Reinstall back in freezer and now we have cube ice again.

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I o ... Read more rdered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.