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XGBS400DM2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the XGBS400DM2BB
16 - 30 of 273

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Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
18 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from BELLEVUE, WA
  • Very Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appl iance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
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Oven bottom tray would not clean up.Looked like finish was off it
11 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from 29 Palms, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed two screws and took out bottom tray and put the new one in and replaced the screws.DId it my self.
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Oven gasket pulled from clips.
12 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Clayton, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed old gasket and pried out clips with screwdriver. Installed new gasket.
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oven wouldn't ignite
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michael from evansville, WI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Pretty easy in all. The connector from the igniter to teh power sorce didn't quite fit. Ijust cut off the new one and spliced the old one back on. Probably could have made my life easier if I took off the oven door, but it just meant I had to reach more. Works great, and other the connector, which I didn't really think would fit a 15 yea r old oven,it was very easy/.
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Oven would not heat
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Andrew from Alexandria, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.

First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.

This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one s crew at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.

The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.

This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.

I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.

The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.

Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.

When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.

I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.
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Igniter went bad
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Willie from Shreveport, LA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Unplug from electrical outlet. 2. Turn off gas valve. 3. Remove oven door. 4. Remove bottom drawer. 5. Remove oven shelves. 6. Remove oven floor, take out the two screws at the rear. 7. Unplug the igniter from the wire harness, you can reach it from where you removed the drawer. 8. Remove the igniter, by unscrewing the two bolts using your nut driver. 9. Replace with new igniter. 10. Put everything back together, starting with # 9 and work your way to #1.
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Gas oven igniter for a GE Profile XL44
8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carolyn from Oakdale, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Once we knew which part was needed, we went on to your site and orded the part. It was delivered the next day! Partselect.com is bookmarked on every computer in our household, including mobiles. It's great to know there is such a fantastic resource for do-it-youselfers. It took 5 minutes to remove the old igniter and plug in the new. A screwdriver is the only tool required.
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I needed another oven rack. It came with two. Now I have three.
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from N ROYALTON, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I cut the box open with a utility knife and removed the grill. I then opened the oven door and rearranged the two existing racks so that the third one would go in so they all have the same distance between each of them. I slid the new rack into position. It didn't go in smoothly though as I had to push it in and out several times so that it would line up perfectly. Finally in went in all the way. Then I closed the oven door and went and sat down to think about the wonderful job I just did.
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Ignter would glow but gas valve wouldn't open
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter R. from Riverside, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the door and the racks, and the flame spreader. I removed the 4"X6" shield loosen the circular flap to plug the new igniter to the recepticle. Turn the oven on to check the operation and if it comes on, button it back up. remember open the oven door approx 3" and pull upwords to remove the door. I would say 90% of the time the i gniter is the problem.
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The igniter would glow but the gas would not come on.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joyce from SALEM, WV
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I followed the video instructions on the site. I unplugged the power supply and turned off the gas supply. I then removed the plate out of the bottom of the oven to get to the igniter. Then I removed the screws and unplugged the igniter to remove the old part. I had to purchase two porcelain wire nuts because the new part connection di d not match up with the old connection. The repairs were quite simple and I had my oven back and working in no time. I am glad I read the comments from others because I thought it was my gas control valve, but they were right it was my igniter. This saved me time and money.
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The bottom strip had become rusty and looking badly
5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carolyn from North Port, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I pulled the oven door off the hinges and took the bolts out of the bottom of the over that were holding the strip on. I then pulled the strip off and replaced it with the new on. I replaced the bolts and then replaced the door on the hinges.
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Oven door gasket was missing.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eugene from TUSCALOOSA, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
I removed the original gasket clips with pliers. I installed the new gasket by aligning the clips with the holes around the door and pressed into place. Easy fix!
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Oven would not ignite
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Todd from Falcon, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire att achments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.
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Broken inner glass in oven
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cecil from CINCINNATI, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove door and disassemble door to gain access to inner glass by removing 8-10 screws and nut driver screws remove and clean outer doors remove heat shield and heat Insulation. Reinstall careful to not get fingerprints on inside of glass and replace quick release hinges and door. Careful of hinges as they are spring loaded
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GAS OVEN WOULDN'T LIGHT
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harold from BUCKLEY, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
With the model number I wnet on Parts select site and located the part through the problem finder selection,(GREATFEATURE!) (74% the problem is the Flat Style Oven Igniter) (watched the video on installation and compared my unit with the one in the video). The video explained installation completely and made it very simple. The only criti c is that the oven door can be removed completely to make it easier to get in the the oven, opening part way and lifting up the oven door will come completely off. Also the broiler pan drawer can be taken completely out if you would need to get in this way for some reason. Final note: I called the local GE dealer Parts dept- they would have had to order the part anyway and it would have cost three times what Parts Select charged me.Save $$$ great! .
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All Instructions for the XGBS400DM2BB
16 - 30 of 273