XBS360DM2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece ... Read more of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!

Remove upper rear cover (4 hex screws), then I removed the 4 phillips screws that mount the control panel, I memorized the wire positions (easy since they are color coded) unplug the wires and remove the old control panel. The face plate of the control panel did not come off easily and the adhesive pulled off some of the white paint, lea ... Read more ving an unsightly clear edge. So I used white-out, and painted the areas where the finish had pulled off. It worked beautifully, and the color match is perfect. Then I reapplied the face plate, put the new control panel in position, connected wires, screwed screws, repositioned rear cover, screwed screws, plugged it in and it was done. The longest pare of the job was waiting for the white-out to dry.

my husband who is very handy took it a part, replaced the glass and put it back together - he did remove the door from the oven first and put it on the counter to work on it.
I had the schematic picture of the door ready in case he needed it. He didn't really.

First, I got my husband and let him know that the part was in (really easy), then I sat back and watched as he pulled the oven from the wall, unplugged it and lifted the stove top (so far, I haven't broken a sweat)! I then peeped up under the top as he removed a scew from the element and then several screws from the back panel, trace the ... Read more wire to the needed element, and reconnect the new element (haven't broken a nail yet)! He then secured the element back on its mount, let down the top and plugged the oven back in, checked for accuracy...mission accomplished! This was the easiest repair I've ever done!

After turning the power off to the range, it was as simple as removing the screws for the broiler itself and the bracket and plugging in the new element. Yes, it was that easy.

I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through th ... Read more e opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.

Originally the burner had a hole burnt through it, which resulted in a hole being burnt through the bottom of a pan. I replaced the burner and it would not heat up. I removed the top control panel, after securing power to the stove outlet, turned the power back on checked both sides of the swith with a meter (with the switch on) and had ... Read more no power on one side. I went to two stores that did not have the switch in stock and ended up ordering from this site at about half the price! It arrived a couple of days later. I marked the wire colors on the old switch, took off the knob, removed two phillips head screws, pulled out the old switch and installed the new one and I was back in business. The hardest part was getting the sheet metal / heat gaurd positioned right upon re-assembly. To remove the panel there are two screws in the rear (nut driver) and a screw on either side of the front under each corner that require a torx driver to remove.

I spent more time turning off the breaker and opening the door than replacing the element.

Nut driver to remove the 2 screws, NN Pliers to remove the leads, remove the element and reverse the process.

Hope this isn't copyrighted..... so easy, a caveman could do it!

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Followed the instructions online, very simple, quick and painless.

The broiler uses two male slip-on connectors that attach to two wires with female connectors in the stove. When removing the broiler element, I discovered that one of the two wires was burned in half specifically where the wire crimped to the female connector. This is abnormal and raised some concern. However, I deduced that the terminal ... Read more crimp from the factory must have been defective and the wire nicked or cut in order to produce enough heat at that point for the wire to burn and fail. The female crimp terminal is a special, solid right angle design that I was unable to locate locally even at an electrical wholesale distributor. A straight terminal connector was used and crimped after stripping a new section of the wire. Heat will melt solder. You must use a high quality crimp connector and tool. The connector was then very carefully angled down slightly to maintain a safe distance from the back shield of the stove to the wire when in place. The new broiler works fine. There was likely nothing wrong with the old one. Just a wiring issue.

took of the back panel with a nut driver,pulled off the wires one at a time ,put them on the new switch in same position as the old switch.removed old switch with a screwdriver ,screwed in new switch,replaced back panel,put on switch knob

First I unpluged the unit from the recepticle, then unscrewed the back panal from the oven. I removed the to wire connections from the bake element and then removed the two screws from the element itself. I removed the element and did exactly the sae in reverse to install the new unit.

Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel

My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When ... Read more we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.