- Home
- XB258DM3WW
- Instructions
XB258DM3WW General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Burner went to "HI" after control knob turned past "MED"
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Joel from Colorado Springs, CO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the screws holding the back in place, then pulled off the control knob and removed the two screws holding the infinity switch. Swapped the leads from the old to the new switch and reinstalled everything. Worked like a champ!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Storage Drawer rear support broken
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Tiffany from Denver, CO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary scr
... Read more
ew, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Heat sensor malfunction
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Diane from BUTLER, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on,
... Read more
thats it...
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Cooktop oil fire melted plastic parts; control defaced
12 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
John from Gaston, OR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless y
... Read more
ou are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven is off 10 degrees
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Ike from LOGANVILLE, GA
- Very Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
... Read more Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
... Read more Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The oven did not get up to or hold the correct temperature
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Robert from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the c
... Read more
onnector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
F2 error; over heating, unknown reason
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Tim from LEAVENWORTH, WA
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Glenn from Grapevine, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven tem
... Read more
perature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Brian from DOVER, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to
... Read more
access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
When the burner was turned on it would be on high for any setting. In fact, the burner would be warm to touch even when the switch was in the off position.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Daniel from CEDARVILLE, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I turned the power off at the circuit breaker, pulled the stove out from the wall, and removed the plug. I removed the top back panel, and took the burner switch out by unscrewing the 2 screws in the front of the panel. I used pliers to remove the wires one at a time from the bad switch and put them on the good switch. I replaced the new
... Read more
burner switch on the front panel and also, replaced the back panel. I put the plug back in the socket, pushed the stove against the wall, and turned the power on at the circuit breaker.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven in accurate temp too low.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Mary from Bolton, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Front right burner would obtain the right heat setting.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
John H. from JACKSONVILLE, NC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Went to You Tube, found the appropriate segment. "Wa La" the problem was solved. Burner is working the way it is supposed to.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
8" element shorted out
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
David from Highlands, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First replaced the 8" burner element-still did not work.
second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.
third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replac ... Read more ed wired new on with the two screws.
second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.
third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replac ... Read more ed wired new on with the two screws.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Wife broke the interior window by splashing water on it while heated to 450.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Dennis from GRETNA, NE
- Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Well I did it all wrong from the get go. I did finally do a search on how to replace it and then it was quite easy. Learn from me, watch video and save yourself tons of hassle.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!