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WWRE5240DCCC General Electric Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the WWRE5240DCCC
31 - 45 of 434

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Purchased used washin machine w/o drain hose
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Oxford, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
After realizing I had purchased a used washing machine without a drain hose I thought I would never find one, but then I found partselect.com. After easily locating the part on the web site from the detailed diagrams and model number I then ordered it. Receiving the part quickly I used a socket to remove the plastic connector that preve nts the hose from disconnecting once the washer is turned on. I fed the hose through the plastic connector and into the drain hole without any issues. I then used my one small socket to secruely fasten it back together. There was no additional tools or items needed to successfully attach the washer drain hose.
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Pump went bad, machine had very little use would not buy another GE washer
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Old Lyme, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Drain tub. remove 2 hose clamps and hoses. R&R 2 screws that hold pump.
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Washer tub was making loud noises.
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Roslyn, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Basically, I just followed the instructions in the video that is posted on this sight. It went off without a hitch. Removed the screws from the control panel, lifted it up and out of the way. Then I used the putty knife to release the clips that hold the front panel in place and then removed the top of the washer. Pretty easy from there t o swap out the dampening straps and reassemble the washer. Saved a lot of money doing it myself.
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Very large noise during spin cycle
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ashok from CUPERTINO, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Tub seal was found completely broken. Replaced it.
Then replaced tub bearing, tub bearing washer, shaft & mode shifter assembly and 6-rib drive belt.
Reassembled and tried, more quieter and like new machine.

Loosening tub nut was a challenge as it was bit corroded, use of WD40 was a great help.
Knowledge from y ou tube was a great help.
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Very loud noise during the spin cycle
8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Walter from IRVING, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The first attempt to fix the problem did not turn out so well. I replaced the tub bearing, split ring, tub bearing washer and the hub washer. After reassembly and testing, the loud airplane noise was still present during the spin cycle
Then I ordered and replaced the mode shifter shaft assembly and, since I was going to disassemble a gain, also ordered a new 6-rib belt. Once reassembled and tested, it was quieter than when it was when brand new, according to my wife.
Parts came in very quickly and the tutorials/youtubes were spot on.
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Water would not drain from tub.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Strafford, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I pulled off the front panel using a flat blade screwdriver to get it started. Then I could watch what happening as I tried starting the washer. When I put the dial to the Rinse Cycle and pulled the dial to start the washer, it would start to run for about 5 seconds and then stop. I tried this several times and the same thing h appened. I noticed the water pump located in the front lower right hand corner was not running. It would only hum. I drained the tub by holding the wash machine drain hose into a bucket. If I held the hose down toward the floor, the water would flow freely out of the hose and into my bucket. As the bucket filled up I just raised the hose, emptied the bucket and repeated the process until the tub was empty. Sure saved time over trying to empty the tub by bailing the water out with a can. After the tub was drained I removed the two hoses from the pump and then the two mounting bolts and the pump was out. I bench checked the pump with an electric cord and it stilled just hummed. I knew for sure then the pump was bad.

I then ordered a new pump from PartsSelect.com. I entered my wash machine model number and PartsSelect gave me a picture of the replacement pump. I was a little worried that it did not look the same as my old pump but I ordered it any how. The night I got the pump I installed it in about 30 minutes. No problems, it just worked like a charm. Thank you PartsSelect.com I will definitely use you for all my appliance repairs in the future. I know there will be more.
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Hose would not seal at rear of washer.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles Wayne from Forest Hill, WV
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
The hose has a tapered end that fits in a tapered hole in the back of the washing machine.When insalled the first time,the joint leaked badly.My solution was to coat the hose end and the interior of the hole in the back of the washing machine with silicon sealant;let it set up for a few minutes and install the new hose.This solved the lea k and the hose seems to be working fine now.
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Water was leaking from machine.
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RUPESH from BELLFLOWER, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Open back cover and found that drain pump had a bad seal. Took it apart and bought new seal some what same size. Put everything togather and start washing clothers and wife complained that it became wost the before. When on line and found pump and price was just right to take a risk. Ordered on sunday and got ups tuesday.
Replaced pu mp on Sunday and leak was gone and wife was happy.

------Got chicken and beer that Sunday--------------
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washer over flowed due to stuch valve
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Philip from Sugarloaf Key, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
turned off the water and removed the hoses. Then removed the screws that held the back plate (that contains the knobs). removed the two screws holding the water valves and the hose to the washer. replaced the valve and then reassembled the rest.
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Cold water would continue to flow even when it was supposed to stop.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from Campton, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed knobs, removed cold and hot inlet hoses,removed top cover, removed output hose, wire plugs, and three screws and replaced the valve.
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Washer cycles quit working. Control Asm failed.
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alex from Riverview, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Unpluged power cord from power source.
2. Removed 4 knobs from front of control panel.
3. Removed 4 screws from top of control panel.
4. Laid control panel over on closed washer lid.
5. Removed wiring harness from control asm which is attached to back of control panel face plate.
6. Removed 5 screws that attac hes control asy to back of control panel face plate.
7. Removed old control asm and replaced with new.
8. Reverse removal procedure and plug to power source and run washer through a few cycles.
9. This self repair took about 15 to 30 minutes and saved me about $150.00 on a service call.
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Water leaking from between inner shaft and outer shaft of assembly and teeth worn off of clutch assembly
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dean from GLEN BURNIE, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Followed instructions from video for shaft and mode shifter assembly and tub bearing, all went as in video except extremely difficult to remove tub nut. Could not get nut to loosen and when it did finally move it was spinning the whole shaft, had to have the shaft held with a pipe wrench from underneath (2nd person). The tub seal was anot her issue, removal was easy just as in the video but because water had gotten inside the seal it caused the internal metal of the seal to corrode and rust which deformed the old seal and the plastic of the tub where the seal sits. There was no way the new seal would go in and be tight enough to seal so I put a hose clamp around it, heated the plastic with a heat gun just enough to be able to tighten the clamp several times, let it cool and removed the clamp. It held its shape and the new seal went in snug so I proceeded with the reassembly. Test ran the washer and checked for leaks, no leaks. It has been a week now and approximately 10 loads of clothes cleaned, all is good.
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all straps were broke due to over loadiing washer
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Danny from north kansas city, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Took front of washer off,found that all of the straps were broke ,removed two small bolts from each strap pulled plastic support from from broken strap and put it in new strap,put plastic supported end of strap in first put bolt in and mounted other end to drum,easy job just about any one with common since could do it.Got to go laundry t o wash :-)
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washer was leaking (noticed during spin cycle)
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Shady Point, OK
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Took complete tub assembly out of washer and inspected it. Did not find an obvious cause of leak but all 8 screws on inner tub hub were loose. As both tub nut and split ring were corroded, replaced them and the outer tub seal. Did a lot of cleaning!! As I was putting the trans assy back on the outer tub, I noticed a crack around the d rain spout. At 1st, it looked like it belonged there but a closer look proved it didn't. I ordered a new outer tub (which came in 2 days) and I put the whole thing back together. Reassembly was far easier than disassembly was and I learned a whole lot about washers. YouTube is a great source of information.
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I had a bad tub bearing and tub seal.
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Troy from N CHESTERFLD, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I had no difficulty dismantling the washer until I got to the hub nut. It was frozen to the cone shaped fitting it was resting in. I had to take a drill and a 3/16" drill bit and drill the flange of the hub nut and then take a chisel and break it off piece by piece. Once that was off, I lifted the tub out and tried to pry off the split ri ng under the tub and it too was corroded and broke when I tried to pull it off. So I would advise you to buy a hub nut and a split ring if you are replacing the tub bearing, just to be safe. I went to an appliance parts store here in town and bought them. When reassembling the tub, I couldn't get a wrench or pliers on the hub nut to get enough torque to tighten it securely. And since I didn't want to spend $43 to buy a spanner wrench for a one time repair, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $15 dollar adjustable wrench and cut 3 1/2" off the handle so it would lay flat to the tub and used a hammer to tap on the handle to tighten it securely. If you do not find some way to tighten the tub securely, it will come loose in the spin cycle like it did on me twice before I purchased the adjustable wrench and modified it to work. Plus I still have a useable adjustable wrench. Additionally, I took the washer cabinet, the tub and the tub sleeve and power washed it to get years of grime off of it. The washer now operates like new, saving me hundreds of dollars.
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All Instructions for the WWRE5240DCCC
31 - 45 of 434