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WWA8314PKLWH General Electric Washer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Hot Water side barely running
26 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Anthony from Tyler, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
First cut off both incoming water supplys. Next remove the water hoses to the inlet. Then remove some of the screws that are holding the back panel on that will give you access to the inlet plate remove those screws and that are holding the inlet in. when you remove the inlet mark the wires take of the water hose and remove inlet now do t
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he opposite to assemble There was no Rocket Scientist needed and the funny part $12. cheaper than literally going around the corner to the appliance store Thank You and my wife thanks You
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water leak in machine while not in use
16 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Diane from Waverly, MO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I pulled out machine turned off the water ,and unpluged the machine. Took off the hot and cold water hoses with help of vise grips. Next the two nuts which hold's the part to the machine(plate) and the nut that holds the part to the plate pulled out the part marked the four wires which go onto the part undid clamp on hose and pulled off
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hose. put the hose on new part , re-attached the wires , put part on plate and attached plate and part to machine hooked up hoses turned on water and plugged in machine . The washer does not leak and works great. I'm a 59 year old woman.
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Washer wouldn't fill with cold water
10 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Cary, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Replacing the inlet valve could not have been any easier. First, I removed the back plate of the washer using a socket wrench on the 2 screws. After removing the wiring attached to the valve, I then detached the valve from the plate with the same socket wrench.
I then loosened the clasp on the rubber hose and disconnected it ... Read more from the valve.
I replaced the new valve using exactly the same procedure, only in reverse. First attached the hose, the attached the valve to the back plate. Then replaced the back plate on the washing machine and reattached the hoses.
I then loosened the clasp on the rubber hose and disconnected it ... Read more from the valve.
I replaced the new valve using exactly the same procedure, only in reverse. First attached the hose, the attached the valve to the back plate. Then replaced the back plate on the washing machine and reattached the hoses.
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Overflowing, water would not stop, had to turn off at water source to stop it
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jorge from College Station, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
This was not exactly the right part for my machine, well, it was the right part, it was just a different design ro something. It didn't quite sit in the same place as the original, and so, the little hose is crimped a little, which makes the washer really loud. It's ok because it works now without babysitting. It was not difficult to inst
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all, just took off the top panel with the star drive bit thingy, and took the old part off, installed the new part (forced it into place) and got it running.
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the agitator was turning very slow
13 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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CAROL from HOFFMAN ESTATES, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I just remove the old agitator, and place the new one on it was all in one piece, It took less then 5 mins.
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Timer would not turn. The knob was slipping.
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DANIEL from ROLLING MEADOWS, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers
I went to your web suite to get part numbers. Found your videos. It told me what my problem was and how to fix it. Pull clip off. install new knob reinstall clip done. Very easy and fast. I couldn't even get a repairman out that fast.
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Inlet valve on very old but so far functional washing machine had cracked and was leaking water
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Patricia from Potsdam, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
I was pleased with how quickly my part arrived and that it was still in stock as the washer was quite old. I had to remove screws on back panel to get at part. only a couple of screws held the part in place and 4 wires were connected. The hardest part was pulling the part out of black hose that connected water into machine. It had be
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en on so long it wouldn't pull out and part of it broke off in hose. It took some fussing to get it out and then the new part connected easily.I took one wire off at a time and put on new part as to not get them mixed up.
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Cold water fills too slow
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Seth from Dallas, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
I unhooked the fill lines from the washer. I unscrewed the cover plate of the water inlet valve, and pulled the valve out enough to disconnect the fill hose. I unscrewed the band clamp on the fill hose and disconnected the hose.
I took the replacement part and one by one moved the four wires from the old part to the new part t ... Read more o make sure I connected each to the proper terminal. I then reattached the fill hose and clamped it. (This was the only "hard" part since the hose has little length to work with and is inside the machine.)
After attaching the all the internal connections. I took the coverplate from the old valve and screwed it to the new valve. I screwed it all back in place. Before reconnecting the fill lines from the wall, I replaced the rubber washers in the hose (a good practice to do when re-connecting these hoses). Connected the fill lines, and voila--working washer!
Very easy and intuitive repair.
I took the replacement part and one by one moved the four wires from the old part to the new part t ... Read more o make sure I connected each to the proper terminal. I then reattached the fill hose and clamped it. (This was the only "hard" part since the hose has little length to work with and is inside the machine.)
After attaching the all the internal connections. I took the coverplate from the old valve and screwed it to the new valve. I screwed it all back in place. Before reconnecting the fill lines from the wall, I replaced the rubber washers in the hose (a good practice to do when re-connecting these hoses). Connected the fill lines, and voila--working washer!
Very easy and intuitive repair.
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Knob would not advance timer / cycle selector.
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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bob from forestdale, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
After pulling the knob out ( on position) a white retainer clip was visible behind the knob. Using a paper clip bent in to a "J" shape I was able to easily remove the retainer clip and knob . The old knob had several stripped teeth that caused the problem. The new knob came with the retainer clip installed . The knob slipped on and locke
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d in position.
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no hot water supply to washer, selenoid pumping on and off
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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BLAIR from PARAMUS, NJ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver
remove enough screws in rear panel to access water inlet valve. remove two screws holding water inlet valve to washer frame and flex valve outward enough to remove clamp on water inlet tube. wiggle inlet tube off of valve inlet nipple and back valve out enough to see wires. after noting wiring color codes remove the four wires from the ol
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d valve and discard old valve. install the new valve simply by reversing entire process. only difficult part of entire process is removing and reinstalling the inlet tube on the valve body as the tube is short and limits room to work.
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knob was getting hard to turn so I ordered a new knob.
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bertram from Woods Hole, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers
had to pull knob out to see the clip locking the knob to the post.
finally got the clip out, pulled knob off sand put on new knob with new clip
finally got the clip out, pulled knob off sand put on new knob with new clip
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no/very little hot water coming into the washer
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Valdis A. from Louisville, KY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Socket set
Took the back cover off 6 screws, took the inlet valve off the mounting plate 2 screws, the vater valve off the mounting plate 2 screws, and disconnected the inlet valve clamp from the inlet hose to the washer. In reassembling reversed the process. Best part; G.E. was going to charge me $59.00 for the valve, and I got it for $16.10 ship
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ped in one day.
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only cold water would go into machine. No hot water works.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Lexington, KY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed 2 screws on the top control panel to tilt the panel back. Then "popped" the hinges. I then removed 2 screws on the rear panel, to "pick up" the panel out of its locking position. Then the rear panel was loose. I removed the 2 srews holding the water inlet valve to the panel, removed the hose and placed the new water inlet va
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lve in position. Assembled everything back to gether. After a $16.00 part was replaced, the washing machine worked like a brand new one with very high water flow. It was a very simple task to do on your own.
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broken control knob
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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andrew from Nantucket, MA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
repair was quick and part came quickly. I was very satisfied.
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My appliance repair man suggested that he install newhoses to the inlet valve and in doing so stripped the threads on the hopt water inlet valave which 2 days later resulted in a serious leak in the washing machine. It was obviously necessary to replace the inlet valve.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Valerie from lakeville, CT
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench set
My appliance repair man replaced the inlet hoses into the washing machine and in doing so damaged the threads on the hot water inlet which resulted in a seriuous leak. I removed the 4 screws that held the damaged water inet valve (#PS270305)in place (inlet valcve and solenoid), removed the 4 wires to the solenid (noting the order in which
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they wree attached) and simply reattached the electrical wiring and screwed the inlet valve in place with the 4 screws that I had taken off to remove the old part.
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