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WU1000X4 Roper Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the WU1000X4
1 - 15 of 156

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Dishwasher leaking at bottom of door
248 of 269 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eileen from Salt Lake City, UT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Installed new door seal. Dishwasher still leaked. Googled the model number and then cleaned the filter at the bottom of the dishwasher, still leaked.
Verified that manifold bearing was not work. It was OK.
Found note that a plugged vent might cause leaking door. Very counterintuitive. Pried off air vent cover. Vent was tho uroughly plugged with calcium deposts from steam. Cleaned these out.
Dishwasher no longer leaks.
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leaking water
95 of 107 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mary from Fountain Green, UT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The first thing I did was to investigate. I needed to find where the leak was coming from. It was leaking from just above tne door front panel, directly underneath the control panel buttons. I opened the dishwasher door, and decided to remove the door screen vent. I was covered with some offwhite fiberous, or filter like material. I thou ght perhaps the filter had broken down, and I ordered a new screen. When it arrived, and, although I had expected to receive a new filter with the plastic door screen, I didn't. There wasn't one to be ordered. I looked at the screen again. My problem was, that although I had considered that the substance I had thought was a filter, was instead build up of detergent, and other particals. That idea didn't seem to make sense. I didn't think it was possible for that stuff to get to the door screen. I thought, it was too far away from the dispenser and food particles. As it turned out, the buildup was, in fact, the problem. I properly cleaned the door vent, which was then fine, and I put it back into the door. There were no more leaks, that was it, and the problem was solved. As a last note however, unfortunatley, I have to return the new door vent screen that I ordered. I enjoyed solving the problem, and you all helped alot. Let's do it again sometime.
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Water was dripping out of the front of the unit down low.
83 of 91 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phil from atascadero, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I removed the old gasket, installed the new one which took about 20 seconds.Tested the unit, water was still dripping, but in a different fashion.As per a previous poster's instructions I removed the vent cover. (Located inside the dishwasher up high.)I cleaned out the calcium deposits with hot water and a sacraficial toothbrush. "Ta-Da!" Everything is now groovy!Thank you so very much for your excellent service. Your site was easy to use and your shipping was "lightning fast!" Also, the advice you sent me was invaluable. I thank you, my wife thanks you and my trained lobster thanks you too! :)
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Door Gasket was bad causing a water leak
60 of 68 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from Springfield, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This repair was very simple. I opened the door of the dishwasher then pulled the old rubber seal (gasket) out; I checked the old gasket to with the new one to ensure the new one was correct then installed the new one. There are two small rubber pieces located in mounting slots below the door gasket that slide out; I slide the old ones out and slide the new ones in. No tools required.
The thing that made the whole job easier was ordering the parts from Parts Select; I couldn't find exactly what I needed on the Whirlpool website but I found exactly what I needed on the Parts Select website and the parts were a perfect match.
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Heater core went bad
42 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Indianapolis, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I took off the bottom 2 plates covering the bottom of the dishwasher. I shut off the power to the unit.There are 2 insulated sleeves with a clamped wire attached to each side of the heater core. I removed the 2 wires and unscrewed the sleeves and lifted out the old heater coil, to install I reversed the process. I found this repair to be a piece of cake, and of course my dishwasher worked like a new one saving me at least $400.00 for a new dishwasher, plus the pain of taking out the old unit and installing the new dishwasher. Thanks for your wide selection of repair parts.
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Dishwasher stopped in middle of wash cycle..
29 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Bay City, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I disasembled the inner door and replaced the door switches with new ones.
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door insert all scatched up
24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • stephen from west islip, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Took me a while to figure out that the bottom plastic strip is all that holds in the panel. Once it is removed , it pulls out easily When the new panel arrived,just slide it up into the top grooove, and push the bottom strip back into its groove. The front looks like new!
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Dishwasher would not turn on. Switch fuse broke.
25 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jay from Alexandria, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed inner face of door, cut wires leading to door switches, and then installed the new door switches and wire harness.
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Broken hose
24 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • carlos from potomac, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed dishwasher lower faceplate.
Removed hose clamp at the dishwasher end.
Removed clamp at the garbage-disposal end.
Removed hose.
Pulled new hose.
Connected both ends of the hose.
Installed both clamps.
Tested.
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Latch broke on dishwasher
22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Edmond, OK
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Look at the exploded parts diagram, that parts select provides on their website.

You have to take off the nine star pointed screws. So you need a special screwdriver or I had a socket set of them and I used a ratchet to make it easier. I think there are nine of them around the base of the door. Then remove the door and set it o n the counter. Flip it over and there is a small plastic cover that has to be removed from the back of it, and it is easily removed by gently pulling on it.

Now comes the difficult part. There is a locking piece on it that holds the latch onto the door by interlocking with a piece on the back side of the door. I took a pair of wire snips and just cut the old interlocking piece off. This way I didn't have to try and slide the two interlocking pieces apart.

When you go to put the new piece on before you interlock them make sure they are put on right. Specifically the latch is pointing the right way to seal the detergent door. Otherwise it can be a pain to separate the interlocking pieces again. (which is why I cut it off the old one).

Then you're done. Just put it all back together.
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Dishwasher running with no or little water.
21 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Atlanta, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed screws under counter holding washer in place. Pulled washer out until I could access the back. Turned water supply off (in my case faucet under the sink) Turned power off at breaker.
Disconnected water line and electrical wires noting wire location. Removed solenoid unit by undoing two screws on frame. Installed new unit, co nnected wires and water. Turned water on to ensure no leaks and pushed washer back under counter. Turned power back on and checked machine operation. Replaced the screws under the counter to keep machine in place. This is very easy. In my area a plumber would charge $75 to do this.
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Dish Washer was leaking every once and a while. Shield came out and was deformed by heatinfg eliment and was found on the bottom of the unit.
22 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Henry from Raleigh, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The gasket was a breeze, with just pulling out the old one and slowly pushing in the new in the track with my fingers. The shield was a little harder since there was no instructions before me. It turns out that it fits in the inner door and is used as a baffel for the steam (another problem with leaking out the bottom). After removing the front cosmetic pannel you need to thread the shield inside on three tabs that hold it. It took a few times to orientate it properly but it snaps in when correct. After the front pannel was put on and the unit test operated, the washer no longer leaks. Highly recommend the parts and help from PartSelect and the others before me.
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Detergent Cup does not open
26 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • stephen from venice, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnect power supply to dishwasher. Open door and remove screws on inner door cover. Carefully remove inner cover while watching how inner parts are arranged. Found return spring on detergent cup linkage had rusted and broken causing detergent cup not to open. Installed new spring and re assembled inner cover. Rotated timer dial one fu ll revolution to check operation of detergent cup. Worked like a charm. Re connect power supply to dishwasher and your good to go.
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it would turn off and on mid-cycle and finally quit completely
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nat from Raleigh, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I turned off the circuit. I removed the interior side of the door and then the plastic covering over the electrical wires and switches (I counterbalanced the door with a couple of half gallon juice containers). I removed the wires attached to the switch on the door handle and the door handle itself. The handle and switch parts disassem bled and I replaced the switches (part of kit). I cut off the singed wire and the other three beyond the damaged portion and stripped the wires and connected the extensions (part of kit). I attached the new wires to the switches and closed up the interior door. Lastly, I turned the circuit breaker back on. All was well!
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detergent door latch did not work
17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Judy from ESTES PARK, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I removed all the ( what my Husband called star screws ) star screws and removed the housing panel ( holds dish detergent cup and silverware basket ) I discovered everything accross the bottom was all gucked up with detergent soap accumulation. I took the part to the kitchen sink and used the sprayer hose on the part with hot water and i t cleaned up beautifully, and the detergent latch then worked ( the spring that operates the latch was all gucked up with detergent accumulation ).
I am the wife and did all of this myself and it only took around 5-10 min. My Husband had to help me figure out the type of screws because they turned out to not be phillip screws, but as Hubby called them.."star screws".
Soooo, I did not need to use the Latch Kit I purchased, so will store it in my parts supply! :)
Happy repairs to you..
Judy Estes Park, CO
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All Instructions for the WU1000X4
1 - 15 of 156