WRT134TFDM00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Removed ice maker held on by 3 screws, took out 2 screws holding back panel, removed 2 screws holding bracket for fan motor, replaced evaporator fan motor and everything works great. Beware of thin splines, I have large hands and bummed up against them and slice one knuckle in 3 places which bleed profusely.

unplugged the fridge removed the shelf, remove the rear wall to access the motor removed the 2 screws holding the motor and unplugged motor from harness, then unplugged the groung wire .then put it back together up and running in 15 mins.

The fridge went warm and I noticed ice build-up on the freezer floor underneath the coils. I mistakenly thought that the defrost heater (or thermostat or timer) must have been the culprit. I used a voltmeter to test those components and chased a wild goose for quite sometime before realizing that the evaporator fan was not spinning and that it failed a test with the voltmeter. Replacing the fan easily fixed my problem! I later realized that the sheet of ice on the freezer floor indicated that the defrost cycle had been working. Were that not the case, the ice would have been all over the coils.

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

I actually followed the instructions by William. He did a great job. I ran into some difficulty because the wire connector on the replacement motor didn't match the old connector. We had to replace the connector on the new motor to match the wiring harness, which was easier than trying to match the connector on the motor. Had the connectors matched, the replacement would have taken less than 30 minutes to complete.

First i pulled the electrical plug from the socket so the refrigator was off than I removed 5 screws (3 of those holding the ice maker). pulled the icemaker toward the front and removed it I than took off the back of the freezer panel,(the back panel was removed by pulling the top of the panal towards me it came right out of the freezer) I removed an additional 2 screws holding the evaporator fan motor. Than I used pliers to squeeze the mounting bracket tabs (white tabs BOTTOM OF MOTOR BRACKET). I then disconnected the electrical FAN MOTOR PLUG and removed the motor. i than pulled the fan blade from the motor (fan blade is only a pressed onto the motor shaft.I than pressed the fan blade back unto the fan motor and reversed the above directions

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do