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Warm fridge and freezer but compressor was running. No air distribution inside fridge
I turned breaker off to fridge, it was easier than pulling fridge out in camper. I took 4 screws out of back panel that revealed the evap fan, took 2 more screws out to take fan bracket off. Unplugged fan plug. Took fan blade off the non working evap motor and put it on the new evap motor. Put all the screws back in the reverse order and flipped the breaker and air started circulating.
Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.
Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.
I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.
freezer and refrigerator compartments not cold enough
Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.
Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now
We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing
bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!
Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.
Light rocker switch broke and refrigerator light couldn't go on.
I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.
Just like the video showed me.It still does not work. Have to turn it off and on to make it start up.I also replaced thermostat in freezer. Does not work.
Internal light did not come on each time the door was opened.
After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.
Unplug appliance. Socket wrench to unscrew two screws. Module drops down. disconnected two press-on wires by prying off with screwdriver. Removed old switch. Press-fit new switch. Reconnected two wires (color coded). Screwed module back in place. Plug in appliance.