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WRS6W1EW4 Westinghouse Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the WRS6W1EW4
1 - 15 of 1005

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cracked, broken door bins
527 of 557 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Beverly from Jackso, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The new bins and I installed them in the door. Nice to have door space again.
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freezer shelf broke
506 of 533 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MONICA from LANCASTER, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Easy slide it back in place
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Shelf Cracked Because Excessive Weight Put On It
449 of 530 people found this instruction helpful.
  • GEORGE from GARDEN GROVE, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Slip the old one off and replace the new one with just snapping it in place!
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Support studs were broken
337 of 381 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from Amherst, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Used pliers to remove the residual broken stud that was still attached to the wall of the refrigerator, and then just pushed the new part in place. The longest time was spent in removing the food and crisper drawers.
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Running but not cooling off and frost in the back of the freezer
272 of 325 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from Bentonville, AR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the 4 hex head screws on the lower back panel at the back of the freezer. Used a blow dryer to defrost the pipes and area surrounding the thermostat. Unplug the connection from the back of the freezer, unplug the 2 wires, one that goes to the heater, one that comes from power. Unclip the thermostat from the pipe and note which pipe you unclipped it from. Cut the wires on the old thermostat midway between the plugs and the sensor. Using the supplied butt connectors, strip the wire ends on color matched wires (should be a dark blue or black) and crimp them together. Repeat with the other wire. Discard the white shrink wrapping. I wasn't able to get it small enough with a hair dryer or lighter. Plug the thermostat back into it's respective plugs. Clip the thermostat back onto the pipe you removed it from. Replace the back panel with the four screws. Ensure the bottom of the panel is set inside of the drip tray. Replace any shelving you removed. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall. Your done!
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Broken ice maker
255 of 344 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Juan from Miami, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Unplugged faulty ice maker, removed two screws holding it to the refrigerator and took it out. Reversed the operation with the new ice maker and after a few minutes presto, we have ice.
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Ice Maker Stopped Working
164 of 183 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JACK from MESA, AZ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
It was pretty straight forward. Remove the two screws that hold the unit to the wall of the freezer. In my case, I had to use a different ice maker than what came with the frig. In order to install the replacement unit they sent a wire adaptor so it would attach to the existing wiring. That too was all fine and dandy. The only p roblem was that the end of the wire adaptor did not fit through the existing hole in the rear of the frig. I used a utility knife to cut through the thin metal lining. That worked just fine. However, I could not cut through the insulation because I could not reach it through the small hole. The excess wire was supposed to be pulled through the hole and out through the back of the unit. So now the excess is between the wall of the freezer and the insulation. The unit is working wonderfully. In fact, it is making more ice than I can use. I am very pleased with the replacement unit. This is the 3rd ice maker that has been in this frig. All the others had a design flaw that had a leak in the rear of the unit. This caused all the ice to form into a big block. The replacement unit has not had this problem so far. Thank you for allowing me to explain my situation so that maybe others may benifit from my experience. Thank you. Jack
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bottom of fridg. would not get cool. Temp was 50-60degrees. The freezer compartment worked so I knew it was not the compressor.
158 of 182 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Carthage, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the fan housing in the freezer section by removing all the screws. (7) There are two screws behind the vents. I did not have an ice maker to contend with so this was very easy. There is only two wires to disconnect....the ground wire and the electricity supply. Then you remove the unit from the back of the housing cover by rem oving two screws. Then the motor is removed from it's housing by removing 2 more screws. 1...2...3 and you're ready to reverse the procedure. I am not mechanically inclined and this was easy. Saved myself perhaps $120.00. Repair folks wanted mininum of $60.00 just to come out. Part and shipping cost me 33 bucks.OH, DON'T FORGET TO UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. :>)
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Refrigerator door bins cracked and glass shelf broke
193 of 292 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Elkridge, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Remove cracked bins, inserted new bins and replaced broken glass shelf. less than 10 minutes....parts came in 3 days.....website showed actual part pics which helped choose the correct replacement.......it was great!!
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had broken sheves on the doors and the crisper drawers weren't suported
214 of 398 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fred from Plano, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The only difficult aspect of the job was getting the old shelf support stud removed from the refrigerator wall - the support was broken off too short to allow vise grips to hold it. I had to use two screwdrivers to get under and then pop out the stud to the point I could get the pliers to hold. Everything eles pretty much just "fell tog ether" very easily.
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The plasticdrum was broken and would no longer crush or feed the ice through the door
146 of 220 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from Wichita, KS
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
removed screws,removed broken parts and installed new parts.
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broke two door bins, one on frig and one on freezer doors
141 of 220 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Linda from Tierra Verde, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
We had the bins the next day. I had called some other companies and they wanted twice your price! You were much more curteous on the phone, much more professional and quicker and cheaper! I will tell everyone in Florida who to call if they need a part!
Thank you so much!
Linda Cecil
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Old refrigerator shelves broke.
95 of 104 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jorge from Roswell, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced with new parts... they just pop right in. Cheap plastic used by manufacturer gets brittle with exposure to low temperatures and over a mere 5 years all break off. Very annoying.
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Refrigerator would sometimes freeze everything
86 of 98 people found this instruction helpful.
  • donna from brandon, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
we researched the internet with our symptoms and most sites said it was the thermostat. At $800+ for a new refrigerater, we decided to order the thermostat. Found schematics on the net, the thermostat was located in teh freezer compartment . Unplugged, removed food from freezer, removed the bottom shelf in freezer, and the back panel I t was EASY to find. Cut 2 wires, replaced with new thermostat. DONE! The new thermostat came with new connecters.
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"Paddle" on ice actuator broke off.
83 of 93 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ryan from Elk Grove, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Slide off drip tray at bottom of ice/water compartment.

Remove the 3 screws along bottom edge of face plate. Slide face plate upwards slightly to disengage tabs holding top of face plate to fridge door. Pull face plate slightly away from fridge, reach behind plate, and disconnect wiring harness. Set face plate aside.

Remove 3 screws holding ice/water actuator mechanism to fridge door. Disconnect wiring harness on left side of actuator mechanism. This allows the left side of mechanism to swing outwards.

Looking down on top of mechanism, loosen the two screws holding the small, metal retaining plates for ice actuator. (The metal plates hold the ice actuator pivot pins in place in the actuator mechanism). Once the two screws are loosened, the metal plates can be moved to the side to free the ice actuator.

Remove old ice actuator and replace with new actuator. NOTE: Ensure the black ice door flap regulator (the thing with the gear teeth) stays engaged with the gear on the damping mechanism while installing the new ice actuator).

Move the metal retaining plates back in place over the ice actuator pivot pins and tighten both screws. Move the ice/water actuator mechanism back in place and re-connect the wiring harness on the left side. Re-install the 3 screws holding the entire mechanism in place.

Re-connect the wiring harness to the face plate and slide the tabs at the top of the plate into the holes in the fridge door. Slide face plate down and line up the 3 screw holes at the bottom of plate. Re-install the 3 screws. Re-install the drip tray. You're done!
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All Instructions for the WRS6W1EW4
1 - 15 of 1005