WRS22WNHD2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

After posting the specific symptoms and getting feedback, I had narrowed the cause to two linked parts. I ordered both intending to replace first one, then the other as needed. With parts in hand, I pulled off the freezer control knob, used a nut driver to remove the two panel securing screws (behind the face, against the inner ceiling) a ... Read more nd gently dropped the cover down. The control (temp sensor and cold control) is easily accessible as it sits wedged into two slots in the plastic cover. The control must be slightly lifted in order to extract the long sensor that attaches to the control and runs under it and into a plastic sleeve behind the panel (the new control comes with the sensor wrapped in a tight coil and it must be unwound for the install). Removed the three wires noting which color goes where. Used needle-nose pliers to remove the small push-on tabs and removed the control. After starting the new sensor probe into the sleeve re-attached the 3 wires to the new control. Used the original as a model for how to pre-bend the probe for the first 2 inches as it was mildly frustrating to position the unit back correctly. Pushed everything back into place, re-installed the screws and plugged the fridge back in...(you DID unplug it first, right?). Still haven't used the second part (defrost timer), but I expect it to go soon...it is a 17 year old refrigerator, after all.

Removed old thermostat and replaced. really easy.

Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers.
My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring.
Succe ... Read more ss! My coils no longer freeze up.
Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.

the heater defroster was bad. tested and no continuity brake in eliment.just doing a visual might have detected it but it`s hidden behind the coils.....all is working now

First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested ... Read more good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.

I removed the two screws and unplugged it. I then attached the pigtail to the appliance, then to the fridge. I had to push the excess wire harness into the hole in the back. It took a few minutes to move the rest of the harness out of the way by curving it upward and securing it with a nylon tie.I ordered the ice maker from Part Select on ... Read more Sunday night and it arrived at 8:32 Tuesday morning, THANK YOU! I ordered very simple weed cutter parts from Sears a week ago and they haven't even shipped yet!

The defrost timer is located under the freezer side behind the lower plastic cover. Very simple, just 2 screws and a plug, and your done.

The thermostat requires removing the lower drawers in the freezer and unscrew the back side of the rails and let them hang over to get access to the lower cover on the back of the freezer. On ... Read more ce the panel is off you will be able to see the thermostat. From there you just remove the thermostat from the clip, cut the 2 wires, splice in the new thermostat and re install using the new clip and your done!!

This was my first time and it was really simple. I had a local repair shop quote me $375.00 . I did it myself for under 50.00 shipped to my door..

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to ... Read more uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

Turn off ice maker
Slide wire harness shield off connector
Disconnected harness
Loosened 2 wall screws
Remove old ice maker
Installed new one reversing process

We replaced the water control valve. We took the old one out and put the new one in. We primed it and then it took off.

I removed the old ice maker and unplugged the cable. Screwed in the new one with a 1/4 nut driver at the 2 mounting screws, plugged cable in. Checked ice maker with a small level before final. All Ok and after night I had Ice and it has been working great since.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wiring harness plug, replaced the old timer with the new one, re-connected the wiring harness and reinstalled the mount in position. Hardest thing about it was lying on the floor.

Placed door rack in end caps and snapped on to door

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.