WM2377CS LG Washer - Instructions

I removed the top off the washer, unplugged from the electrical, removed the three hoses and wiring plugs, removed the two screws holding the valve assembly in place, and replaced the part with the new. It was a very simple swap, and I even found a video on YouTube on how to replace it.

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

unplug washer and disconnect inlet and outlet hoses. drain water from washer (about 2 gallons) by removing lint screen from front of washer. lay washer on side (I used a blanket to avoid damaging the paint) remove all the phillips head screws in the plastic bottom and the metal feet of the washer. Gently pull the bottom of the washer off. There are 3 shock absorber looking things that pull apart and are greasy. Try not to mess with them much. Just pull gently, and they slide apart. cut the zip ties holding the wires to the washer bottom piece. remove the screw in the lint screen area and gently pull the recessed plastic thing out the front of the washer. remove the screws holding the pump assembly on the front of the washer. Remove the three screws holding the pump assembly on the outlet pipe manifold. Installation is the reverse of removal, take care to put the shock absorber looking things back in gently and together at the same time when reinstalling the plastic bottom of the washer.

Basic skill

After checking for blockage on the drain hose and checking on any blockage on the bottom left corner filter and not finding anything i decided to open the machine. Everything suggested a broken drain pump
ITEM
PS3579318 Drain Pump and Motor Assembly which is located on the bottom left corner also and it attaches to the bottom left corner filter. And voila! The machine did not work! Now started throwing a FE code and it would not fill up. Well, the new pump was stuck! All i had to do was to stick my fingers in the bottom left corner filter orifice and move the fan like devices that make the new drain pump work, that did it! Be careful not to do it while the machine is pluged in, those plastic blades may hurt your fingers. To reach the drain pump you have to take the top, control board and front (door and gasket) of the machine off, about one hour labor.

I ran the spin & drain cycle to empty the drum,I waited to be see how long it took to see a noticeable level of water in the drum (1-2hrs).decided to check the cold water valve first.Found that there was rust forming around the solnoid piston,making it hang up,most of the time it tryed to open, or close. cleaned with light sand paper(piston), and ordered part with parts select. Which was real easy,because of the knowledgeable staff,parts came in as promised,and in good shape,and most important of all it was the exact replacement part. My wife is HAPPY,which makes my life good too! THANKS Parts select..

the best video was on you tube and showed exactly how to repair my washer. the parts arrived quickly and was a perfect match. thanks for helping me save some moola and making mama happy.

I took the back panel off the washer and located where the leak was coming from. It was obviously coming from around where the cold water hose connects. Checked washers in hoses and they were good. Noticed a small drip on the valve assembly that the hose connects too. Took off small panel where the hose connections are mounted....disconnected all 3 black water hoses that connect to it (squeeze metal clamps with pliers and slide hoses off. and numbered them with permanent marker so I wouldn't get my lines crossed later), removed the quick disconnect electrical lines.... removed part and googled the parts diagram on this site.....identified the part in the pic and ordered....it was here in less than 48 hrs with the basic shipping (which stated 3-5 days:)....reassembled the same way I took it apart. I'm prud of myself, it was pretty easy and I'm sure it saved me a lot of money!:)l

greate very easy and the parts fit awsome the shiping was fast and easy very satified

Found great Youtube video, followed step by step. Only difficult part was getting the tub gasket clamp back on. But all in all pretty easy. If tub won't drain and weird noise coming from pump do not hesitate to do it yourself and save some coin!

My washer was leaking and the first thing I had to do was diagnose the leak. I removed the rear door cover of the washer to watch and see where the water was coming from. When I saw the drip and on and off constant stream coming down from the door area, I knew it was the boot seal. So I got online and watched the video on how to repair the boot seal. I would like to add two additional steps. After disconnecting the drain valve on the bottom, there was also an orange dual valve (part K 512) on the top of the boot along with an electric eye (I think part K 513) that needed to be removed. The dual valve was easy: just remove the clamps and pull out the valve stems. The electric eye was secured with a nylon strip lock, and fortunately I had an extra one laying around. Cut the nylon lock and push the electric eye out of the top of the boot. Once I got to the step where I was lubricating the door boot seal groove, I also lubricated the orange dual valve stem and electric eye. They were easy to pop back into place, and then I secured the electric eye with a new nylon strip lock and the valve with the clamps. This entire repair took me about 90 minutes, and it was not that hard to do. The only difficulty I had was trying to pop the control panel off, and also trying to get the spring clamps off. I recommend you purchase a spring expansion tool like that shown in the video.

The most difficult part was moving both the dryer and washer from the laundry room, into the garage. Be sure to unplug and turn off both hot and cold water, gas, and disconnect gas from the dryer before disconnecting hoses and dryer vent. I walked them out with the help of my sweet little wife. I got on utube to find a film on disassembly of the wm2277hs. This is vital because it comes apart like a chinese puzzle box. With the top panel removed, I hooked the garden hose up to the cold side and found the middle solenoid was leaking on the inlet valve. I decided to replace both hot and cold inlet valves along with the four hoses. The hoses had little cracks in them. It cost more but I expect it will save hassle down the road. After replacing the parts, I tested it all with the garden hose, then put it back in the laundry room. Final testing included looking for leaks and dish soap on the gas connection looking for a bubble. Suggest you pay for faster shipping. My stuff came in three separate shipments and took a week. It was about $85 bucks. Good luck.

Took apart the washer and removed bearings and shaft on spider. My advice would be to order the spider and shaft (one piece) hen ordering the bearings, seal, and tub gasket. If the bearings are gone, it is likely the shaft is gone too as mine was.

Followed the manufacturers instructions to disassemble the washer from the top. There was a video on youtube of a guy who was able to replace his bellows hose from the back, but maybe my arms weren't long enough, I couldn't reach all the way to the front. The washer was pretty easy to take apart, except for taking off the top, where there were 2 extra screws not mentioned in the instructions. Replacing the part was really easy. HERE'S THE MOST IMPORTANT PART: LG DOESN'T MENTION IT IS REALLY HARD TO GET THE CLAMP ASSEMBLY BACK ON THE GASKET WITHOUT A SPECIAL TOOL. You can buy the special LG tool, or you can do what I did (and others on the internet) and buy an $8 "Brake spring spreader" tool at your local auto parts store. Repair was a success. No more water leaking!

Contacted LG customer service, not much help there. Watched a very helpful Utube video on how to find and repair the leak. The video suggested that the most common leak is in the drain hose with bellows. Removed the rear panel and removed the bellows unit using pliers for the clamps and screwdriver for the bellows part. This was pretty easy. The rubber bellows was leaking in the exact same place as the youtube video showed. This is a Design Flaw that LG needs to fix. Ordered the new part and installed the bellows portion of the part first, as the angle for that installation needs to be correct. Then attempted to install the end of the hose (very inaccesible) to the pump drain. Very difficult to position the factory supplied spring clamp with pliers so I purchased a screw-type clamp (using the nut-driver rather than a screw-driver to tighten the clamp was helpful) at the local hardware store and that made my job much easier. Note: My unit is mounted on a pedestal, so it was a little easier to access the part location (about one foot off the floor, rather than at floor level), but it may be that the part should be replaced from the bottom of the unit, which would make it much easier to access. Then I installed the other end of the hose to the drain line using a screw-type clamp. I am 69 years old, and not that flexible anymore, so getting down on the floor to reach inside the unit was difficult. You need patience to do this job and you have to make sure all the clamps are properly installed so you don't start the machine up and end up with another leak. For me, this process was difficult and took more than two hours to complete. Limited access to the area made it more difficult and I hate the factory clamps they use. Overall, the repair costs about $25, compared to the $125 just to come look at the machine, then more money to fix the unit. It was satisfying to complete the repair for a small amount of money, but not sure it was worth the aggravation.