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WFW9400SW00 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Replace Bellows between door and tub
5 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gerald from Douglas, AL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove top and front
Care taken to unplug door wiring
should have taken notes or photos where srews go and order
remove old bellows large hose clamp and sping tensioned clip
clean surfaces
install new bellows on tub only
put all panels and door together
Connecting wiring to door and strain relief takes 2 ... Read more people
connect bellows to door with spring clip
Care taken to unplug door wiring
should have taken notes or photos where srews go and order
remove old bellows large hose clamp and sping tensioned clip
clean surfaces
install new bellows on tub only
put all panels and door together
Connecting wiring to door and strain relief takes 2 ... Read more people
connect bellows to door with spring clip
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Inlet valve was stuck in open position allowing washer to fill with water when not in use.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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john from YARDLEY, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
Removed lid. Took old parts off and replaced with new parts. Also replaced hoses while washer was moved away from wall.
Other Parts Used:
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The inlet valve begins to restrict water flow into the washer based on normal calcium buildup. At a certain point, the washer will start giving an F20 error code indicating it is not getting enough water.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dennis from AUSTIN, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
This is a straightforward replacement. Move the washer to an area where you can work on it. Unplug the washer from the wall. Turn off the water and disconnect the hot and cold water hoses at the washer. Remove the back of the washer. Slide out the top of the washer. Remove the small hose from the valve to the remainder of the washer. Disc
... Read more
onnect the two control wires to the valve. Replace the valve. Replace the small water hose. Reconnect the wires. Replace the top and back of the washer. Connect the water back up. Plug in and try a test load. The water should flow fast enough to reach the back of the machine.
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Broken hinge
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Anthony from JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed door from washer, remove hinge from door. Then slip in hinge and tighten hinge to door. Then attach door. It works and the most important thing the wife is happy
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Leaking water inlet hoses.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Helen from NASHUA, NH
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.
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Tub filling when power was off due to inlet valve leak.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Francisco from DELTONA, FL
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Followed instructions as shown on repair video at site.
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tub would not turn
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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claude van from big sandy, TN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
take the back cover off and put belt on. the belt is a tight fit and requires sone effort, but can be done.
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Low water flow into dispenser and washer tub
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from WAKE FOREST, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Super simple repair, videos on this site were spot-on.
1. Turn off water, unplug washer, and disconnect the hoses from the back of the washer.
2. Remove the three T20 torx screws holding on the top of the washer, slide the top back about an inch, and lift off.
3. Remove the T20 torx screw holding the water valve to ... Read more the back plate of the washer.
4. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the outlet hose of the valve and slide it down about an inch.
5. Remove the old valve and attach the new one to the outlet hose. Reinstall the hose clamp.
6. Replace the screw that holds the valve to the back plate and reinstall the top of the washer. Reconnect hoses the the washer, turn on water, and plug back the washer back in.
7. Odds are, your water flow has been low for a while and the first cycle is going to flush a good bit of mildew and other gunk into the washer drum. Run a cleaning cycle with about 1/3 cup bleach through the washer prior to using.
Should be good to go!
1. Turn off water, unplug washer, and disconnect the hoses from the back of the washer.
2. Remove the three T20 torx screws holding on the top of the washer, slide the top back about an inch, and lift off.
3. Remove the T20 torx screw holding the water valve to ... Read more the back plate of the washer.
4. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the outlet hose of the valve and slide it down about an inch.
5. Remove the old valve and attach the new one to the outlet hose. Reinstall the hose clamp.
6. Replace the screw that holds the valve to the back plate and reinstall the top of the washer. Reconnect hoses the the washer, turn on water, and plug back the washer back in.
7. Odds are, your water flow has been low for a while and the first cycle is going to flush a good bit of mildew and other gunk into the washer drum. Run a cleaning cycle with about 1/3 cup bleach through the washer prior to using.
Should be good to go!
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One of my baffles just came off during a wash, one of the plastic clps that hold it in place dry rottedafter 10 years
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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scott from DENVER, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Real easy , the baffle goes in only one way , use the others as guide as too which side the taller end goes.
With one hand pushing in the center of the back of the basket , pushing back , simply place and slide baffle towards you with other hand , there will be a crisp snap as it slide in to place.
With one hand pushing in the center of the back of the basket , pushing back , simply place and slide baffle towards you with other hand , there will be a crisp snap as it slide in to place.
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Pump not working
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Darrell from Lady Lake, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replaced pump
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Plastic retainer ears broke
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Avis from Abingdon,, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Took old broken part off and replaced with new. Involved removing 2 screws and putting back.easy repair. Biggest problem was length of time it took part to arrive.
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I was getting a sewer smell when the washer drained I did every cleaning technique and didn't solve the problem then I cleaned the inside drain hose and that helped so I replaced the hose and problem solved.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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anthony from EASTPOINTE, MI
- Very Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the back panel to access the top end of the hose then I removed the lower front panel to access the lower end of the hose that attaches to the pump. The hose is secured with spring clamps and they were removed with pliers, the panels are secured with screws.
I replaced the hose and reinstalled the panels and I was do ... Read more ne.
I replaced the hose and reinstalled the panels and I was do ... Read more ne.
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Hinge broke
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lindsey from STEWART MANOR, NY
- Very Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
We read your you tube instruction and followed the video
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drum baffle broke and had to be replaced
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Alan from GOUVERNEUR, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
place new baffle over slots in drum; move toward back of drum and snap in to place pressing down and moving toward front of drum
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Broken Strike on Washer Door - prevented door from latching, and washer would not start
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David D from Severn, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out -
... Read more
it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.
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