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WFW3090GW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Michelle from Richardson, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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Leaking water inlet hoses.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Helen from NASHUA, NH
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.
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Replace the timer board in the Washer
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kevin from SIMPSONVILLE, KY
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
The washer had to be put on its side to gain access to the timer board. The board is located on the right side below the main tank. There are two screws holding the board into the washer.
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Door does not lock, Replacement ACU partly compatible with original Wiring Harness, Service Manual errors & omissions
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
Thomas from MESA, AZ
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Downloaded & studied the Whirlpool Service Manual. NOTE: manual has a mistake: bottom view showing the ACU (AKA Timer) mounting is reversed as it is actually a mobile phone selfie, causing ACU re-installation to be somewhat puzzling. Solved it by editing the photo, reversing it. The test procedure obliquely identified the issue as either
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a failed Door Lock or ACU or both. Please follow relevant manual instructions (omitted here) in their proper sequence. NOTE: Manual omits Door Lock removal instructions: 1) Detach the emergency unlock strap at the bottom screw and replace screw. 2) Remove the front panel. TIP: Replace screws at their _original locations_. Whirlpool uses multiple head types, threads, and length fasteners! 3) Disconnect the Door Lock wiring connector. NOTE: ALL connectors have a retention tab. 4) Remove the lock assy: a) push in each of two ?5mm (0.200") black posts beside the the square door latch receiver ~1mm (0.040"). b) Viewed from above, horizontally pivot the lock assy CCW. TIP: Take a photo of the Door Lock's Unlock Strap mounting before removing. TIP: Re-attach to Door Lock _before_ re-installing Door Lock on front panel.
I purchased the replacement (repl.) Door Lock and ACU from PartSelect. NOTE: The repl. ACU is a newer model and _MOST ALL_ connections are relocated. The Wiring Harness may require a simple modification or replacement. Recommend taking photos of the original cable routing _before_ relocating the ACU to enable connector access. NOTE: All original and repl. ACU connector locations are labeled. Recommend labeling each mating wiring connector.
My washer's original ACU Door Lock DSS connector has a PCB 3-terminal connection. The repl. ACU is labeled "DSS" at _TWO_ locations, but the ACU's DSS _PCB tab_ location has _NO_ terminals on either side of the PCB - useless, but nonetheless labeled. The other DSS location has a female connector with 3 male spade terminals. My original Wiring Harness has only a female 3-terminal PCB connector. The connector is labeled 1-2-3. I labeled the three black wires with corresponding 1, 2, and 3 painted dots. I then cutoff the now useless PCB connector and installed three non-insulated* female spade connectors, crimped, and labeled them "1"-"2"-"3" to match the wire dots. *(The insulation prevents insertion into the repl. ASU's connector. Insulated crimping ends physically separate the three terminals.) Having built 3 PC workstations, I had temporarily and carefully removed the repl. ACU motherboard from its housing. The repl. ACU's motherboard DSS jack is labelled "3" at one end, confirming the labeling of the three female spade connectors. TIP: Connect the Door Lock to the Wiring Harness and measure door closed 60-90 O between ACU J43-1 & J43-2 to confirm valid connection.
Finally, i) Re-attach all wiring connectors to the locations as labeled on the repl. ACU. ii) Perform the CS Test to confirm system function. iii) Manage the Wiring Harness - either original or PartSelect Special Order Wiring Harness after =15 day + shipping delay and expense. NOTE: PartSelect was unable to verify that _EXCEPT_ for the DSS wiring connector, _ALL_ of the Special Order Wiring Harness wiring connectors are _IDENTICAL_ to those of my original Wiring Harness! I was unwilling to further delay the repair =3 weeks by ordering the Special Order Wiring Harness to visually inspect it. Use of standard, inexpensive female spade connectors is fully functional, safe, and economical. It's simply unsuitable for mass production processes.There was _NO_ assurance that Whirlpool would have provided to PartSelect either the identical, original Wiring Harness or one that specifically mates with the repl. ACU. I chose not to expend the time and expense necessary to risk discovery of an unwanted duplicate original Wiring Harness. iv) Complete washer re-assembly. v) Repeat CS Test to confirm system functionality. vi) Celebrate!
I purchased the replacement (repl.) Door Lock and ACU from PartSelect. NOTE: The repl. ACU is a newer model and _MOST ALL_ connections are relocated. The Wiring Harness may require a simple modification or replacement. Recommend taking photos of the original cable routing _before_ relocating the ACU to enable connector access. NOTE: All original and repl. ACU connector locations are labeled. Recommend labeling each mating wiring connector.
My washer's original ACU Door Lock DSS connector has a PCB 3-terminal connection. The repl. ACU is labeled "DSS" at _TWO_ locations, but the ACU's DSS _PCB tab_ location has _NO_ terminals on either side of the PCB - useless, but nonetheless labeled. The other DSS location has a female connector with 3 male spade terminals. My original Wiring Harness has only a female 3-terminal PCB connector. The connector is labeled 1-2-3. I labeled the three black wires with corresponding 1, 2, and 3 painted dots. I then cutoff the now useless PCB connector and installed three non-insulated* female spade connectors, crimped, and labeled them "1"-"2"-"3" to match the wire dots. *(The insulation prevents insertion into the repl. ASU's connector. Insulated crimping ends physically separate the three terminals.) Having built 3 PC workstations, I had temporarily and carefully removed the repl. ACU motherboard from its housing. The repl. ACU's motherboard DSS jack is labelled "3" at one end, confirming the labeling of the three female spade connectors. TIP: Connect the Door Lock to the Wiring Harness and measure door closed 60-90 O between ACU J43-1 & J43-2 to confirm valid connection.
Finally, i) Re-attach all wiring connectors to the locations as labeled on the repl. ACU. ii) Perform the CS Test to confirm system function. iii) Manage the Wiring Harness - either original or PartSelect Special Order Wiring Harness after =15 day + shipping delay and expense. NOTE: PartSelect was unable to verify that _EXCEPT_ for the DSS wiring connector, _ALL_ of the Special Order Wiring Harness wiring connectors are _IDENTICAL_ to those of my original Wiring Harness! I was unwilling to further delay the repair =3 weeks by ordering the Special Order Wiring Harness to visually inspect it. Use of standard, inexpensive female spade connectors is fully functional, safe, and economical. It's simply unsuitable for mass production processes.There was _NO_ assurance that Whirlpool would have provided to PartSelect either the identical, original Wiring Harness or one that specifically mates with the repl. ACU. I chose not to expend the time and expense necessary to risk discovery of an unwanted duplicate original Wiring Harness. iv) Complete washer re-assembly. v) Repeat CS Test to confirm system functionality. vi) Celebrate!
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Old hot water inlet hose had budge at both ends.
2 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jimmy from MEMPHIS, TN
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.
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no problem just the wait for the part oct to dec.
1 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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brian from FUQUAY VARINA, NC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
putting the kit-stack was easy to put together
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Both outside door handles turned very beige
23 of 76 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Howard from Boynton Beach, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discol
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oring refer handles. Thank you
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