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WF45H6300AG Samsung Washer - Overview

Models starting with WF45H6300AG

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Hex Head Bolt – Part Number: DC60-40137A
$16.45
In Stock
Hex Head Bolt
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #DC60-40137A
This part is used for the shaft on the rear of the tub and is sold individually. The head bolt is part of the spider arm assembly, and they are generally changed at the same time. If you are replacing the entire spider arm assembly, make sure you order as many hex bolts as you will need. The spider arm assembly contains 6 of these hex bolts. The hex bolt or spider arm assembly may need to be replaced if you notice that your inner tub is going out of balance. The hex bolt measures 1.5 by 0.5 inches.
Shock Damper Rear – Part Number: DC66-00470B
$51.24
In Stock
Shock Damper Rear
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #DC66-00470B
A washer that walks across the floor or becomes unusually noisy may have a weak suspension damper. The rear shock absorbs tub movement during washing and spinning, helping the machine run more smoothly. These symptoms do not prove the damper has failed, so first check the floor, leveling feet, load size, and suspension springs. Match the replacement to the complete model because mounting ends and force ratings can differ. Disconnect power and water before opening the cabinet. Keep the tub supported, note each fasteners position, and avoid pinching hoses or wires during reassembly. Run an empty rinse and spin cycle to check for leaks, noise, and steady movement.
Shock Damper Front – Part Number: DC66-00470A
$70.30
In Stock
Shock Damper Front
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #DC66-00470A
This is an individually sold front shock absorber designed for use with Samsung dryers. Shock absorbers are used to distribute the weight of the dryer drum evenly and ensure that the different bumps and bounces that occur during the drying cycle are smoothed and counter acted. A broken shock absorber is noticeable by the amount of noise your dryer will make during operation. Replacing this absorber and its rear counterpart may even be necessary to the lifespan of the other dryer parts, so be sure to inspect both absorbers before ordering. To install this OEM shock absorber in your dryer, you will need to disassemble the dryer, which requires a screwdriver and wrench.
Outer Seal Clamp – Part Number: DC97-04973B
$14.25
On Order
Outer Seal Clamp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #DC97-04973B
This is an outer seal clamp for the washer door boot of your Samsung washing machine. This clamp tightly seals the boot of the drum within the door of the washer to prevent leaks. This clamp is made of metal and features a spring in the middle, but over time can be worn down or break, and result in water leaking out of the washing machine and into your home. Replacing this clamp will require a screwdriver, pliers, and safety gloves. This clamp is an OEM part that comes individually, without any other parts or accessories.
Door Switch Assembly – Part Number: DC64-00519B
$46.91
In Stock
Door Switch Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #DC64-00519B
This is a door switch assembly designed for Samsung washing machines. This door switch assembly is used to latch and lock the door shut before the washing cycle commences and communicates with the control board when that is done. If your washer door is not locking or latching properly, the door switch is likely bad or broken and will need to be replaced. To replace this assembly, you will need a flat-head and Philips-head screwdriver. This part is a genuine OEM switch assembly and is sold individually, without any wire harnesses or securing screws.
Water Valve – Part Number: DC62-30314K
$94.30
In Stock
Water Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #DC62-30314K
One solenoid valve for hot water
Tapping Screw – Part Number: 6002-000213
$6.40
In Stock
Tapping Screw
Part #6002-000213
Fixer Tub Assembly – Part Number: DC97-14489R
$56.14
In Stock
Fixer Tub Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #DC97-14489R
Shipping bolts are installed through the back of the washing machine, and hold the wash tub and basket in place while your washer is being transported. The tub suspension holds the tub correctly in place during the wash, rinse, and spin cycles. If this suspension is damaged during shipping, the tub can shake and move, tilt to one side, or spin incorrectly. This could lead to the suspension or motor failing. When moving your washer, it is suggested that you insert the shipping bolts back into place before moving the machine. This part is also called a washer transit bolt. Remember that this part is sold separately, and to check your model to see how many you require.
Oil Seal – Part Number: DC62-00156A
$47.88
In Stock
Oil Seal
Part #DC62-00156A
Washer Drain Pump – Part Number: DC31-00187A
$155.95
In Stock
Washer Drain Pump
Part #DC31-00187A
The drain pump removes water from the washer during the drain portion of the cycle.
Washer Bolt Assembly – Part Number: DC97-02412A
$23.63
In Stock
Washer Bolt Assembly
Part #DC97-02412A
Assembly BOLT;SWF-P12,MOTOR/
Water Temperature Thermistor – Part Number: DC90-10128N
$48.95
In Stock
Water Temperature Thermistor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #DC90-10128N
The thermistor monitors and helps regulator the water temperature in the washer.

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The washing would stop in mid cycle and the door would be locked.
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Arthur from WILLARD, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
An initial issue was getting the door to unlock. I tired several things but finally was able to pull the door as if to open it and put something between the door handle and the front of the washer while I ran a washer cycle. There is a way to take the washer top off and reach down inside the unit and pull down on a release, but I did no t try that.

The washer has a rubber boot between the washer frame and the wash tub. There is a metal wire ring that secures the outer edge of the boot to the washer frame. Peel back the outer edge of the boot at the bottom to reveal a metal ring that has its ends connected by a small spring. Use a flat tip screw drive to pry this ring off. Peel back the boot from the washer frame.

Next use a Phillips screw drive to remove the two screws that protrude through the wash frame on the right side of the door.

Reach between the washer tub and the frame and the tub and pull the switch through the opening and the washer tub. You will have to wiggle the switch around to remove it. There are three sets of wires attached to the switch by plugs.

The switch is covered with a plastic protective cover. Remove this. You will have to use a screw driver to release various catches to do this.

Remove the three set of wires. There are catches that secure the wire plugs in place. pry them back with a small screw drive.

Attach the new switch to the sets of wires.

Attach the protective cover to the switch. The wires feed through a small slot toward the bottom of the switch.

Slide the switch through the opening where you removed it. and re-attach it using the two screws.

Put the rubber boot in the channel in the washer frame. Replace the metal ring. This was the most challenging part of the repair for me. I had to play around with this to get it into position. You have to work it around the gasket and stretch out the spring.

By the way, The service was great and exceeded by expectations.
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Front loader door would not lock.
3 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nadira from JACKSONVILLE, FL
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the rear top two Phillips screws, pull off top cover. Unscrew two phillips screws that hold the outside front lock trim, unclip (one left of housing) plastic housing. Remove one phillips screw 11 o'clock from housing, about 6" away, with door button above it, which releases the door lock housing from inside the machine. From right side (facing machine) look down into left front of machine, you will see a black cover, which does a goid job hiding the white part, but it protects the part from water, I guess. Unclip 3-4 plugs, push spinning loader away to pull out the complete part easily. Swap back covers (a bit annoying to place wiring harness back in such a tight place, and cover on. You can try another method if you have a simpler way, like place the harness onto part first, before plugging in and placing cover. But, I kept dropping the part into the machine, which equals a little pita). Then screw the 11pm screw to hold part and the two other screws (small housing and cover), place remaining 2 screws, and lid. Pretty much undo the above procedure. Done.
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The drain hose disappeared.
2 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Leesburg, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The new hose arrived without a plug, so I found a golf tee that fit securely.
I put a few drops of dish soap on the machine end and it slid on with a little resistance.
I ran a few light cycles, and the leak has stopped.
Thank you
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