W209KVC Magic Chef Washer - Instructions
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Noise from pump
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Donald from Brielle, NJ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
On a scale of 1 to 5 (with 5 being the most difficult), I would rate this a 2 or 3. It is just a matter of knowing how to access the pump. First I unplugged the washer. Then used putty knife to push in clips to lift up top of washer (the clips are located about 1 inch in from each side). Used socket to remove the two screws holding on
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front panel. Disconnected the two hoses from pump using pliers to squeeze clips (be sure to have cup or bowl handy because water will come out of the hoses). Lifted up washer and removed belt from pump. Used socket wrench to remove pump and replace with new one. Reattached hoses and belt. Reattached front panel and closed the top of the washer. Everything was easy to access.
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water filling up inside washer from a steady drip
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from Alexandria, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
First, I unplugged the washer.
then, I used a small prybar to pop open the front top of the waher. It's hinged at the back top edge. I drew a rough sketch of the four color coded connecting wires so I could disconnect the old water inlet valve and replace it the same way with the new one.
( just in case I lost track of wh ... Read more ich wire went where.)
I cut off the water supply for both the hot and cold water, (you can also cut off the water main,) then diconnected the supply hoses--noting where the hot water was connected, and where the cold water connected. Maytag had cut out a "C" and
a "H" our of the back wall of the washer,
to assist with hose installation.
I unscrewed the two hex nuts holding the old inlet valve to the back wall of the washer. ( from the outside back of the machine.) and pulled the old inlet valve up to the top of the machine. I didn't remove the basket that holds the laundry, so it was a kind of tight workspace.
Once you reconnect the wires to the new water inlet valve, attach the inlet valve to the washer wall, and reconnect the hoses, it's done. It's pretty simple.
then, I used a small prybar to pop open the front top of the waher. It's hinged at the back top edge. I drew a rough sketch of the four color coded connecting wires so I could disconnect the old water inlet valve and replace it the same way with the new one.
( just in case I lost track of wh ... Read more ich wire went where.)
I cut off the water supply for both the hot and cold water, (you can also cut off the water main,) then diconnected the supply hoses--noting where the hot water was connected, and where the cold water connected. Maytag had cut out a "C" and
a "H" our of the back wall of the washer,
to assist with hose installation.
I unscrewed the two hex nuts holding the old inlet valve to the back wall of the washer. ( from the outside back of the machine.) and pulled the old inlet valve up to the top of the machine. I didn't remove the basket that holds the laundry, so it was a kind of tight workspace.
Once you reconnect the wires to the new water inlet valve, attach the inlet valve to the washer wall, and reconnect the hoses, it's done. It's pretty simple.
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Unit quit spinning
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leo Joseph from BENSON, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Actually I got on YouTube and looked up the problem and watch the short video of it and went from there and it showed me how to take everything apart what the problems were and as I did take it apart and found out it was exactly what they said I simply reversed it just ordered the parts and put them in and took my time to make sure that e
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verything was to specs as I've measured the clearance of the break and said all the hardware back in place it was quite simple yet it was just time consuming took me about two and a half hours but it runs quiet spins great just like a brand new one I couldn't be more pleased with it and I saved quite a bit of money doing it myself
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The washer was jumping all over the place and leaking water during the spin cycle
4 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Elmer from Fort Campbell, KY
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I took out the agitator first, then I took out the inner tub, next I took out the outer tub, and last I took out the transmission assembly. After replacing the snubber I put the transmission assembly back on, then the new outer tub and next the inner tub. Last I put the agitator back on.
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loud squeal when stopping and leaking
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Carmel, NY
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Removed the inner basket and outer tub to replace the gasket and rubber seal. just had to remove about a dozen screws to get it out.
Tipped the machine up to replace the belt.
The noise didn't go away at first. I decided to spray all the pulleys with some silicone spray, that did the trick.
Tipped the machine up to replace the belt.
The noise didn't go away at first. I decided to spray all the pulleys with some silicone spray, that did the trick.
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No belt and no motor gear
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Matt from Hoboken, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Pop the top of the washer and use the nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the frontpanel on. Use the nutdriver for two more screws holding the plastic motor cover on. Use nutdriver for the two BIG screws holding the motorplate to the washer frame. After this, I literally beat/chiped/sawed the old motor geat off. Once that was d
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one, I put the new one on; had to use a hammer to knock it all the way on (try not to damage the clips). Reassemble everything. Flip washer over and place bet around two smaller gears. Rotate main tub gear to feed belt on. Make sure you use the nutdriver to loosen/tighten the motor positioner screws in the slots if things aren't working here.
The only really hard thing was taking the old motor gear off.
The only really hard thing was taking the old motor gear off.
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tub overflowed
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ellen from Wilcox, AZ
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
Back of this washer did not remove, so we had to go in through the top--more restricting space. As you remove the old electrical metal contacts (two each of white and red), pay close attention to where they connect properly. Best to mark them so as not to confuse how to place new contacts. Also, we disconnected a white plastic hose on
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opposite side of top which determines load size and amount of water, so be sure to look for this.
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water leaking under washer
3 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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paul from akron, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
removed rear acess panel and used pliers to remove leaking hose then reinstalled new hose..
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Pully. Seperation
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles D from New Castle, WA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
I just put the pully on then put the belt on and started washing clothes thank you very much for your help in getting me the pully in a timely matter aloha
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rinse cycle was not expelling the water
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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bert from coudersport, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
remmoved the screws on the back that hold the panel on. removed the two hoses attched to the pump. removed three screws and pulled the pump out. spun the pulley and noticed no movement inside. looked closer at the pulley to notice it was broken. ordered new pulley online. received quickly. new part fit exacttly right. put three sc
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rews back in. hooked two hoses back up. put belt on pulley. plugged in and worked great.
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part received one day after ordering, excellant
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jrrry from Sebree, KY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
took back off washer with nutdriver, pulled wires off by hand, ( was unplugged ). pliars used to remove hose, regular clamp put back on. reinstalled back plugged in, tested water,,,, done
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water pump locked up and burnt motor pully and belt
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gerard from Durham, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
repaced faulty pump,motor pully then installed a new belt
Other Parts Used:
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Pump needed replacing
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Los Alamos, NM
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the front panel to get some light in to the machine. Removed the two hoses connecting the pump to the drain and tub. Removed the three screws holding the old pump in place. Did the reverse to install.
This was a piece of cake.
Thanks for having the parts needed to do this job.
Tom
This was a piece of cake.
Thanks for having the parts needed to do this job.
Tom
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Water leaking when washer was filling with water.
3 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Colleen from Glenflora, WI
- Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers
Took off the back plate. Looked to see where it was leaking. Squeezed the clamps on top and bottom to remove from hose and pull hose out.
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Water inlet valve not closing.
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stan from McAllen, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected the power plug. Turned off the hot & cold hose water supply. Put down old bath towel. Disconneced hoses from machine inlet valve. Opened entire top for access to electrical connections & fill hose. Replaced inlet valve, new wire connectors. Replaced the hot & cold water hoses.
This was my first washing machine ... Read more repair.
This was my first washing machine ... Read more repair.
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