UFE20CW2 General Electric Freezer - Instructions

At first I tried to use pliers to unscrew the base,very uncomfortable working position,upside down and backwards(the microwave is installed over the range top)very limited space for your body and arms to manuver and you really cant see the base,all of this took place after the breaker was turned off ofcourse,finally figured out that you can drop the entire bottom housing of the microwave by unscrewing 6 screws and the light sockets are easily accessable once you lower it,take out 1 retaining screw ,remove the entire socket and unscrewed the broken base and replaced the bulbs,I said bulbs,there is no sense in having to replace another bulb in who knows how long since only one had burned out but they were both the same age

UNPLUG REFRIGERATOR. Carefully remove relay from the side of the compressor. You shouldn't need a tool to do this, if it is hard you can gently pry the edge with a flat head screw driver just to loosen. Unplug white and red wires from relay, noting that the white wire goes in the hole with a #2 stamped beside it. Shake old relay, if it rattles like a baby rattler then it's most likely the problem. Replace wires into the new relay and plug back into the compressor.

Put the end caps on the ends of the shelf bracket and returned the bracket to the proper place in the freezer.

Just wanted to add that the service and helpfulness to get this part for a freezer that is close to 30 years old was super. After almost 30 years, this was the first thing to go wrong with this freezer. We did not expect to be able to find this little part for repair but thanks to fantastic help, our freezer is in good shape again. Thank you !

Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.

I used a small screwdriver to disconnect wires from old starter. I connected the overload and starter, two wires. I put the unit back in the keeper, plugged the unit in, turned up the thermostat and it's working beautifully.

Removed two screws and wire harness from old motor. Put in new motor and connected wire harness.

First, I unplugged the appliance. Safety, first.
Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer.
The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the defrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!

Like another post, the start relay rattled like a baby rattle. Replaced the start relay and freezer works great.

i looked byhind the freezer , the mottor has the relay connected to it.i took out the relay, and i descovery something was loose inside, i decided to take to check out at sears to see if they have in stock that especific relay. they did not have, they could order, that's when i dicided to go ahead and looking for in the internet, good i found PARTSELECT,they had the part and i was very nice attended,they sent in 2 days i had fix my freezer. thanks PARTSELECT. gilmar couto.

The replacement of the light no problem, the reason the light broke; problem. The original was glued in (for transport i think) and simply trying to unscrew it out (in a very tight slot) it broke; be careful or you’ll be buying a new $20 bulb (with shipping and handling).

Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers.
My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring.
Success! My coils no longer freeze up.
Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.

Removed old thermostat and replaced. really easy.

First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.

Un screwed the cover but when i tried to remove the bulb it was broken at the base. I disconnected the power and used neddle nosed pliers to remove the base

tested defrost timer and heater. And then tested defrost timer with ohm test($6 at hard ware store) Closed and would not open replace and tested freezer take 30mins to get switch cold and retest.