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TRT19PNBD1 Tappan Refrigerator - Instructions
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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from Warrington, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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Noisy fan
153 of 180 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jordan from Maumee, OH
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th ... Read more e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th ... Read more e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
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Clicking sound then within a minute clicking again, not cooling.
81 of 97 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Melvin from Semmes, AL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
UNPLUG REFRIGERATOR. Carefully remove relay from the side of the compressor. You shouldn't need a tool to do this, if it is hard you can gently pry the edge with a flat head screw driver just to loosen. Unplug white and red wires from relay, noting that the white wire goes in the hole with a #2 stamped beside it. Shake old relay, if it r
... Read more
attles like a baby rattler then it's most likely the problem. Replace wires into the new relay and plug back into the compressor.
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Side-by-side .. freezer working, fridge not cooling
48 of 52 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tad from Lancaster, OH
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc
... Read more
. After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself
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Refrigerator ran frequently and freezer door was sagging
38 of 46 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dale from Pevely, MO
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I pulled off the old door gasket which came off really easy. I was hoping the new one would go on as easy as just popping it in place but it didnt work. I had to remove the inside door panel. The gasket wouldnt lay entirely flat in the inside groove so I used a bead of RTV around the entire circumference which helped to hold it in place w
... Read more
hile reattaching the panel back onto the door. The screws fit on the under side of the magnetic portion of the gasket. In order to access the screw holes the gasket has to be lifted which sometimes causes the gasket to pull from the lip on the back side of the panel making the RTV get everywhere. After every screw was in place and lightly tightened the panel had to be adjusted to allow for the proper closing of the door. This was the worst part, fortunatly the screws left a slight indentation of where they were before I removed them so it gave me a nice reference.
The hinge part of the new gasket requires a lubricant so it wont bind up when the door is closed. I didnt know about this until my order arrived and a part number was recommended for the type of lube. I just used Vasolene and it works fine.
The pin bearing was really easy. Just unload the contents from the door, mine was the freezer door. I popped off the cap covering the screws and removed the screws while holding the door so it wouldnt drop on the floor. Once off I used a flat head screwdriver to pry out the old one and a light tap of a hammer to replace it with the new. I put it all together the way it came off.
Now my fridge runs much less and the freezer door doesnt sag.
The hinge part of the new gasket requires a lubricant so it wont bind up when the door is closed. I didnt know about this until my order arrived and a part number was recommended for the type of lube. I just used Vasolene and it works fine.
The pin bearing was really easy. Just unload the contents from the door, mine was the freezer door. I popped off the cap covering the screws and removed the screws while holding the door so it wouldnt drop on the floor. Once off I used a flat head screwdriver to pry out the old one and a light tap of a hammer to replace it with the new. I put it all together the way it came off.
Now my fridge runs much less and the freezer door doesnt sag.
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no cooling in fridge or freezer due to bad defrost timer
29 of 37 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Todd from pottstown, PA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
i removed the 4 screws holding cover. removed two screws holding timer. unplugged timer. plugged in new one. reassembled.
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The Evaporator Fan Burnt Up
29 of 39 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ROY from PENSACOLA, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The fan motor all but caught the inside of the freezer on fire . Had to remove then clean, and I mean clean the walls of the freezer . Then had to pry out the old fan without breaking anything . Replacement of new fan was quick and easy because all the parts that I needed were in the bag
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The evaporator coil in the freezer would cake up with ice, choking off the cold air flow into the lower refridgerator compartment. A repair man had previously replaced the defrost heater element, but this did not fix the problem.
24 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Erle from Boise, ID
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.
Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the re ... Read more frigerator during the defrost cycle.
Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.
Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.
Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.
Plug the refrigerator back in and you're done.
Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the re ... Read more frigerator during the defrost cycle.
Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.
Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.
Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.
Plug the refrigerator back in and you're done.
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Fridge warming but freezer still frozen
24 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Todd from Thornton, CO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I ordered a defrost timer and defrost thermostat from partselect.com. Parts arrived in 2 days (earlier than expected). Unplugged appliance, removed bottom cover, unscrewed 2 screws holding timer in place, unplugged timer and replaced with new part. Fastened back into place. Next removed back cover of freezer (5 screws using nut driver
... Read more
). Disconnected old thermostat and removed. Wires already had connectors installed. cut off the connectors with some wire left on and reconnected them to the new thermostat with the included blue wire crimps. Tried to use the shrink tube to insulate but couldn't get it snug enough. Just used electrical tape instead. Reinstalled thermostat. Reassembled cover. Plugged in and fridge and freezer are working fine again. Thanks partselect.com.
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door seals cracking from age on both compartments
23 of 28 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Clark from Wenatchee, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Located the many screws which hold the inside surface of the door on. The screws are located between the seal and the inside surface; you have to hold back the seal to find the screws.
The seals are attached to this inner surface by a snug fit, and clamped in place when the screws are tightened again. Its simpler than it soun ... Read more ds.
Finally, it is wise to get a food safe RTV sealant to glue down the corners of the door seals to make they don't scoot around during the life of the seal.
The seals are attached to this inner surface by a snug fit, and clamped in place when the screws are tightened again. Its simpler than it soun ... Read more ds.
Finally, it is wise to get a food safe RTV sealant to glue down the corners of the door seals to make they don't scoot around during the life of the seal.
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buttom of refrigerator not cold
23 of 29 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Giuseppe from brick, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
unplug it, pulled compressor start relay,which i thing it was the problem, but i replace bolt, very easy.
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Refrigerator freezing
22 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Miles from Longview, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Used exploded parts view to locate part. Removed old part and replaced with new defrost timer. Piece of cake.
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just quit working
19 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Denise from Lowell, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Bought a new
capacitor.
capacitor.
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would not freeze
20 of 32 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Virginia Beach, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
unplugged, removed old parts, replaced with new
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Refrigerator was not cooling
17 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Vicki from Johnson City, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!
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