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TPJ24PRBABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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lights blown out
6 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
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Water valve cracked
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Terry from Grand Forks, ND
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Pulled out the fridge - unpluged. Water supply was already closed.
Then took off the cardboard cover in the back. Used a nut driver to remove 1 screw. Disconnected water lines and elec. connects.
Water lines slid into quick connects - connected electrical and mounted. Opened water suply needle valve.
Pluged in fridge ... Read more did a quick test for leaks. Done in 5min.
Then took off the cardboard cover in the back. Used a nut driver to remove 1 screw. Disconnected water lines and elec. connects.
Water lines slid into quick connects - connected electrical and mounted. Opened water suply needle valve.
Pluged in fridge ... Read more did a quick test for leaks. Done in 5min.
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Water won't stop running in Ice Maker
4 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tony from Charlotte, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Basically I looked online for some research thru google and found this great site.. A few other folks had the same problem as I had with mine and I figured that I would start with replacing the double outlet water valve.. So I ordered it from this site and in two days wow that's fast shipping.. This repair took less than 15 minutes to co
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mplete and talk about a big savings $ 45.00 for this repair job.... I'm really happy now.... It's pretty easy though.. simply unplug frig first... then remove screw holding the valve.. remove clips and have a bowl near by when remoing the two hoses... replace valve.. its all colored coded just match the colors and then the two hoses they are different sizes one for each hole... reclip the clips and then replace the screw and finally plug the frig back in.. and then turn on the water to check for leaks.. if no leaks you are done...
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heavy frost buildup in ice dispenser chute and door
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Rockford, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers
After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wi
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ggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.
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Ice maker leaks water freezing ice cubes into one block
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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andy from clearwater, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Googled the problem, find parts select.com, called service rep and the female rep recommended this part.
Ordered part, got it, replaced it and it works fine.
Note: the water hoses are just installed by pushing in, no tools required.
Ordered part, got it, replaced it and it works fine.
Note: the water hoses are just installed by pushing in, no tools required.
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The dispenser water reservoir had a pin hole leak.
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Genoa City, WI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1. Turned off the water supply to the refrigerator.
2. Removed the front panel and disconnected the water line to the front left.
3. Removed the left rear (freezer side) panel and disconnected the reservoir from the main water supply input. This was a little tricky to figure out. You must push in the water line at the same ti ... Read more me pushing in the coupling. Then pull the line out while keeping the coupling pressed in.
4. Removed the screw that holds the reservoir to the back of the refrigerator.
5. Pulled the old reservoir out and replaced it with the new one.
6. Basically the rest is the reverse of the above. It took a little bit to fish the lines through the original path they came.
Overall this was an easy repair. If I had known how the coupling in step 3 worked this would have been a 15-minute project.
2. Removed the front panel and disconnected the water line to the front left.
3. Removed the left rear (freezer side) panel and disconnected the reservoir from the main water supply input. This was a little tricky to figure out. You must push in the water line at the same ti ... Read more me pushing in the coupling. Then pull the line out while keeping the coupling pressed in.
4. Removed the screw that holds the reservoir to the back of the refrigerator.
5. Pulled the old reservoir out and replaced it with the new one.
6. Basically the rest is the reverse of the above. It took a little bit to fish the lines through the original path they came.
Overall this was an easy repair. If I had known how the coupling in step 3 worked this would have been a 15-minute project.
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water dispenser/ice maker wouldn't work
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Grapevine, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unplugged refrigerator and turned off water valve at wall. Removed the entire back, lower cardboard panel (turns out I didn't have to do this...could have just removed the screws from the right side and folded the cardboard along a perforated line designed for that purpose). Removed screw holding water control valve to back of refrigerat
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or. Took new control valve, and slipped on adaptors for electrical connectors (in bag) to the two smaller of the four electrical prongs). Removed electrical sockets from old connector and placed them over appropriate prongs on new connector. Unscrewed the two old water out lines, cut the old fittings off and slipped the lines snugly into the new outlet valve (new valve had slip on connectors not requiring lines to be screwed in). Keep straight which line goes to which outlet port! Then removed water line going into old fitting and screwed it on to new valve inlet fitting (after removing black plastic protective cap). Turned wall water valve on, checked for leaks (none), and plugged refrigerator back in. Water restored to both icemaker and water dispenser!
By the way, the first valve came damaged, but one phone call and the people at Part Select promptly sent out a replacement which I had the very next day (and this was two days before Christmas!). Great job!
By the way, the first valve came damaged, but one phone call and the people at Part Select promptly sent out a replacement which I had the very next day (and this was two days before Christmas!). Great job!
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Water leak from the Water Valve.
4 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tony from Conover, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Wrench set
I received my parts in 2 days, that is fast. It took me less than 15 minutes to install the unit. Now I've got ice and water from my refrigerator. Instead of taking expensive warranties, I would rather order parts from your company and do it myself on all my appliances.
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No water through door dispenser
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roger from Colleyville, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Ama
... Read more
zing.
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frost/ice buildup in icemaker chute in the freezer door
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kyoko from Bellevue, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. O
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nce we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.
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Crushed Ice Only
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Allen from Hills, IA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screw
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s that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.
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Body case seal gone bad on water valve
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Columbia, MO
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Easy. First, unplug the fridge.
1)Shut off then disconnect water line.
2)Remove water valve mount screw.
3)Disconnect electrical plugs and snip water lines (square cut lines for new valve).
4)Simply insert and seat water lines into their respective places on the new valve. Using adapters as nee ... Read more ded, reconnect electrical plugs.
5)Mount valve and reconnect water line.
6)Turn on water supply and check for leaks. Possible leaks: water line or not fully seated lines to the new valve.
7)Restore power and enjoy :o)
1)Shut off then disconnect water line.
2)Remove water valve mount screw.
3)Disconnect electrical plugs and snip water lines (square cut lines for new valve).
4)Simply insert and seat water lines into their respective places on the new valve. Using adapters as nee ... Read more ded, reconnect electrical plugs.
5)Mount valve and reconnect water line.
6)Turn on water supply and check for leaks. Possible leaks: water line or not fully seated lines to the new valve.
7)Restore power and enjoy :o)
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Warm air enters ice dispenser on door
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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J Stephen from BETHESDA, MD
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replaced flapper. Followed the video. The lamp caused the removable plastic bracket (which supports the control panel and the ice chute) to fuse with the plastic frame in the door. Eventually broke the fused plastic, removed the bracket, and filed the rough broken plastic before reassembly.
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Original part cracked allowing crushing fingers to grab plastic guide jamming it.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Barry from SUN VALLEY, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Part attaches to metal plate near crushing fingers which attaches to ice holding bin. Remove about 6 screws total on each side of plate. You must disassemble the auger & other parts so you can reassemble it in the proper order. Not many parts but i always take pics to cut down on time. New part is at the other end of the auger and acts a
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s the holde of the auger shaft. Picture a crankshaft with a bearing on each end so the auger rotates between new part and the other end of auger shaft. That's it.
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The screws at the bottom of the main door handle were loose which created pressure on the Tail Handle breaking the inserts that kept the molded part secure.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Anthony from MESQUITE, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Take a thin flathead screwdriver (or metal spatula) to separate the lower molded strip from the handle. Once removed, I discovered two small screws that secure the bottom of the main handle were loose. The head of the screws had five points which required a special drill bit that I had in my tool box. The screws were tightened allowing
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me to align the replacement Tail strip and snap it in place. Some pressure is needed to secure it to the door. Once you hear the inserts "snap", then check for any open spaces between the strip sides and the door. If none, you're done!
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