TM16SPL (P7565807W L) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Light bulb failure
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Grant from Alexandria, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.
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No light in frig
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Irene from Whitehall, MT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.
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Light switch which turns on the lights when the door opens went out
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Dennis from Lawrenceville, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.
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light would come on and off
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Dora from Rock Island, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do
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Freezer wasn't getting cold enough.
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Frederick from Aldan, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I followed one of the handy video's on your site and replaced the timer and now my Uncle's freezer is working again. He's happy so, I'm happy.
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Freezer to Warm
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efrain from fullerton, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver
Follow suggested parts to look for. Video very simple to follow repair instructions. Refrigerator back to normal.
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Switch didn't work
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Don from Laramie, WY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00
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freezing up & ran too long
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ted from old hickory, TN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
followed repair help directions
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Bottom freezer not cold enough
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Jack from Reynoldsburg, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver
Removed bottom air vent and removed/ replaced defrost timer by removing 4 bolts with nutdriver, disconnecting the plug connections and then reversing process. Very simple. Unfortunately, this did not solve the problem. Next step was replacing the thermostat. Again a simple procedure, but required removing freezer shelves and the rear
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panel. You have to exchange one lead from old thermostat to new, but very simple. Again, unfortunately, it did not solve my problem. Temp still down around 24 degrees F but needs to get to about 0 degrees. In both cases, I noticed no frosting up on the evaporator coils, just a little on the tubing that the thermostat attaches to. I'm thying to decide next step. Any help will be appreciated.
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Frost buildup in the freezer resulting in warm freezer and refrigerator
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Kathryn from Oregon City, OR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I unplugged the refrigerator and defrosted the freezer. I removed the plastic grate on the front bottom of the refrigerator and removed the plate covering the defrost timer using a nut driver. I used pliers to unplug the defrost timer. Using the Instant Repairman troubleshooting instructions from partselect.com, I used a multi-tester t
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o determine that the current defrost timer was bad. I ordered a new one from partselect.com and and received it very quickly. I plugged in the new defrost timer and screwed it back in place. I replaced the grate, plugged the refrigerator back in. It's been a week and everything is working perfectly! Easy peasy.
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The refrigerator was working intermittently. The ice cubes in the ice container start to melt and there was no cool air coming to the fridge side.
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Julio from Sun Prairie, WI
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the back cover on the freezer cabinet and discover that the evaporator coil was cover with froze and ice. I then though that one of the three component of the automatic defrost system: timer, thermostat or heater coil has stopped working. I measure the resistance off the heater coil and obtained a 54 ohms reading so that was goo
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d. I did not did a very good job with troubleshooting the timer and thermostat since I conclude that the timer was bad. I ordered and changed the timer but turned out that the faulty component was the thermostat which I replaced and the refrigerator started to work like a charm :)! The harness was not exactly the same so, I has to cut and strip two wires and reconnect; beside that everything was fairly easy to do. Thank you!
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Both light bulbs had been replaced, but lights did not turn on.
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Richard from Arlington, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.
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The freezer does not defrost automatically.
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ming from Seattle, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Replace the original mulfunctioned defrost timer by the new Defrost Timer Kit. The old timer was located in a box at the bottum of the refrigerator. You need to disconnect the refrigerator's power first. Take off the front vent panel at the bottum of the refrigerator. Use the nutdriver to unscrew the 2 screws of front cover of the box, un
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screw the 2 mounting screws mount. Then carefully push the timers turning handle into the box, and pull out the timer assembly, Disconnect the '3 1 2 4' connector, and push connect it to the new timer's '3 1 2 4' terminals. Push the connected new defrost timer into the box, reverse the process to mount it back using the original screws and nutdriver. Turn on power. The freezer and refrigerator can cool down and periodically defrost automatically. The new defrost timer works great, the freezer/refrigerator works like new one again.
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Broke the arm off the food compartment rocker switch
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David from St. Pete Beach, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips
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were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.
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