TGFS63DQB Tappan Range - Instructions

the igniter is real easy to put in

after reading other replies i was 100 percent sure that my igniter was the problem . just as others said it had a veryh dem glow . once i changed it the oven lit in about 5 seconds .very easy to install and saved at lease $ 400 on not needing a new stove. thanks parts select . com

From the front I cut the wires going to the old igniter and removed it. Then I stripped insulation back 3/8 of an inch. Using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter, I connected the new wires to the existing. Then I installed the new igniter and the job was done. I turned on the thermostat and the oven ignited quicker than it had for some time.

Figured out which part we needed by reading about others problems; Followed instructions & Presto = oven heats!!!! Didn't have any problems removing or replacing part.

cut wires and removed the burner . Removed the ignighter and installed the new with nut driver. slipped the burner back in place and nutted the wires...Wallagh!!! fired right up...

Unplug electicity, Take out all inside pans, unscrew the burner arm, disconnect white power wires to the igniter. remover gas buner, detach the igniter and attach the new igniter to the burner arm. re assemble the burner arm, connenct the white wires to the white wires from the oven just below the igniter. Put all pans and guards back in oven, plug in and test.

Unplug electric , remove old igniter, cut wires, shorten new igniter wires, strip insulation, wire nut together, attach new igniter, plug in electric, fire it up. Worked great.

First, I read all the instrutions that came with my replacement part from Parts Select thoroughly (twice) then follewed them like an experienced surgeon. I removed the lower drawr after turning off the gas and unplugging the stove and then took out the bottom panels inside the oven to expose the screws holding the ignitor coil. Removed it, then cnnected the new one to the existing wires as they were in the stove and the drawing in the instructions, then replaced everything in the reverse of them coming apart. Plugged it back in, turned the gas back on and now it,ll bake things again. YEAH!! Parts Select!!!

First I'll say the instructions and comments from this site were right on, making it easy. I slid the oven out and unplugged the electric. Opened the door, took out the racks, took out the two thumbscrews at the back bottom and lifted the bottom plate up and out, and lifted off the heat guard plate. I could then see and reach the igniter pretty easily (the flashlight helped). The igniter may have been replaced before because there were already wire nuts on the wires. I unscrewed the two screws using the nutdriver and noted which wire (top or bottom) went to which wire inside. Unscrewed the wire nuts and removed the old igniter. Used the old igniter to determine where to cut and strip the new igniter's wires. Connected the wires of the new igniter using the wire nuts and put the two mounting screws in. Then just put all the other stuff back in (heat guard, bottom plate/two thumbscrews, racks). Plugged it in and started the oven. Got a small amount of "crackly" noise initially (maybe because the igniter was new) but that went away and it's been working fine and quiet since. Very easy (well, perhaps other than being on your knees, leaned into the back of an oven for a couple minutes). Well worth the effort.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I made sure I memorized just how the wires would re-connect with the wirenuts. I then re-assembled everything. Be sure to read all the instructions, especially how to properly install wirenuts. I was able to access the wire connections below the oven chamber through the drawer at the bottom of the range. This is an important detail.

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.

Followed service sheet. Measured 2.6 amps draw at igniter wire which should have been 3.2 amps. Replaced igniter and problem resolved.