TGFS26CSB Tappan Range - Instructions

Removed the metal cover on the back of the range by unscrewing the square-drive screws around the perimeter, left the center screw until the end to make it easier to hold for removal.

The control unit was held in with 4 Philips head screws, and connected by a single wire-to-board connector. Unplugged the connector and removed the screws and the control unit came right out.

The replacement unit doesn't come with a face plate, so I used a razor blade to carefully remove it from my old unit. The adhesive that held it on was still sticky so I was able to easily attach it to the new unit.

Then I just put everything back together in reverse order. One of the easiest appliance prepares I've done.

moved the stove forward and removed old cord by uncruing two small screw and on ploged the all and replaced with the new one.

first i removed the bottom of the oven [inside the oven] ,the part was right there,i removed 2 screws and unpluged the wires,then i cut the wire ends off the old part and used the wirenuts that came with the new one to hook them to the new part,then put it back in place,put the screws back in put the bottom back in and was done

Removed oven door. (two screws)
Removed racks.
Removed oven floor. (two finger screws)
Removed diverter (V) tray. (one nut)
Removed small panel @ left lower back of oven
(1 screw) to access elect. power disconnect.
Disconnected power.
Removed element (two square drive screws)
Snipped and stripped old wires, connected new
with ceramic wire nuts supplied.
Installed new element, reversed proceedure.
Oven lights in 10 seconds. Wife happy!
Probably 40 minutes, could do it again in15-20
once you know what tools to lay out.

had to remove burner bolts holding igniter were stripped cut two wires replaced igniter using two self tapping screws put wires together using wirenuts Honey making cookies right now thanks already told friends about you

remove bottom pan, remove gas second cover, loosen nuts on ignitor, cut wires near the ignitor end for extra slack, connect new wire of ignitor, screw on wire caps, reattach ignitor, replace covers and finished. Very easy repair.

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.

Thank you, Thank you and thank you!!! I couldn't be happier and I save over $200 in repair. My repair was very easy after watching the video. I cut off the wire and ensure that the new one are attached into place. Placed all parts back and boom, the oven starts working a new.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires nuts, (from last repair) installed new igniter. Not rocket science here.

CUT THE WIRES ON OLD IGNITER AND WIRE NUT THE WIRES OF THE NEW IGNITER TO WHERE I CUT THE OLD ONE OFF.

1. Removed top over the oven burner.
2. cut the two wires conneted to the igniter about
an inch and a half.Noted which wire goes to the top of the igniter and which one went to the bottom.
3. unscrewed the igniter from the mount and
carefully pulled it from the oven.
4. put the new igniter wires through the hole.
5. mounted the igniter to the burner.
6. attached the new wires to the top and bottom old wires with the connectors that came with the igniter.
7. pluged the range back in and turned on the oven. Igniter works great.

I unplugged the stove then pulled the disconnected the wires that controled the igniter. I took the two screws off that held the igniter to the pilot port. I hand to cut the wires on the new igniter to some-what match the lenght of the broken igniter. Then I cut the connectors from the old part and used the fire resistant wire nutes that where included with the new igniter and connected it all. Put all the screws in tight, double checked every thing. Finally I plugged it in and it was working.

I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place.I then pulled the element out and cut the wires.I used wire nuts to put the new wirers on and put it back in place with the two screws.I tried it and it worked perfect.

It was extremely easy, I took the two screws out by the hinges and then slid the door up off the hinges. After that I removed all the outer screws, a total of 8, and took the panel off. I then had to remove maybe 6 to 8 more screws in order to get to where the inside glass panel was. I then replaced the glass and put the door back together. It was such an easy job, that if anything else breaks rather than assuming I need to replace it Im gonna look on here to see if it can be repaired.