TGF366CFSA Tappan Range - Instructions

remove bottom pan, remove gas second cover, loosen nuts on ignitor, cut wires near the ignitor end for extra slack, connect new wire of ignitor, screw on wire caps, reattach ignitor, replace covers and finished. Very easy repair.

Removed broiler pan drawer,removed two screws on element unplugged wires,installed new one. ,Tried oven, works like it did when new. It couldn't have been easier,plus I saved a bunch of money thank you partselect mike m.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires....install new element and woalla.........save thangsguivingday thanks to part select .com..........

Simple repair ,unplug unit,cut the 2 wires close to heating element,remove elements 2 screws w/1/4 inch nut driver. Cut and strip 2 wires back about 1/2 inch,be sure to cut wires close to element,wirenut both wires together. Reinstalled element,plug unit back in. Done . . . 12 Minutes,ready to bake a cake. .

First turn the thermostat off-cut the wires leading to the ignitor, close to the ignitor side-Remove the two 1/4" monting bracket screws and remove the ignitor install the new ignitor using the same 1/4" screws and reconnect the wires leading into the ignitor, note the polarity is not imp[ortant--use the heat temp-wire nuts provided--close the door and call for heat the gas valve is working fine now....

CUT THE WIRES ON OLD IGNITER AND WIRE NUT THE WIRES OF THE NEW IGNITER TO WHERE I CUT THE OLD ONE OFF.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires nuts, (from last repair) installed new igniter. Not rocket science here.

Read the instructions provided and simply installed the guides. Total time was less than 5 min.

Turned the gas and the electricity off to the gas range. Took the two large screws out in the back of the range holding on the first pan. Have to look for them. Took off the single nut holding on the second pan. Used nut drive #10 to take off nuts. Be careful you do not lose them. Took off inoperative unit. Cut wires to unit. Stripped wires which connect to range. Put new unit on and tightened nuts with nutdriver. Spliced wires together and put on wire nuts securely. Taped them to the wires. Put the second pan back, then the first pan. Turned on gas and electricity to test.
Worked fine. Found that the old unit was cracked and had a piece missing. Must use flashlight. Be safe.

Followed your video and it was not hard at all

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.

first I emptied the contents of the drawer,then pulled drawer open to it's fullest, then lifted drawer so as to tilt slightly, then removed drawer by continuing to pull straight out. then I removed the glide from its protective packaging and inserted it in the same spot as the broken glide was at one time

It was extremely easy, I took the two screws out by the hinges and then slid the door up off the hinges. After that I removed all the outer screws, a total of 8, and took the panel off. I then had to remove maybe 6 to 8 more screws in order to get to where the inside glass panel was. I then replaced the glass and put the door back together. It was such an easy job, that if anything else breaks rather than assuming I need to replace it Im gonna look on here to see if it can be repaired.

I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.

I unplugged the stove then pulled the disconnected the wires that controled the igniter. I took the two screws off that held the igniter to the pilot port. I hand to cut the wires on the new igniter to some-what match the lenght of the broken igniter. Then I cut the connectors from the old part and used the fire resistant wire nutes that where included with the new igniter and connected it all. Put all the screws in tight, double checked every thing. Finally I plugged it in and it was working.