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TAWB600PQ2 Estate Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the TAWB600PQ2
121 - 135 of 1266

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Water Pump was leaking
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rick from Liberty, SC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The water pump had a small leak when washing clothes, and my wife was nagging me about it. I know men, youwere shocked that I said nagging and wife in the same sentence. Me being a man, I would have just left it since it is in the laundry room in the carport.

I turned the washer on its side and felt where the leak was on th e pump, went inside and ordered the new pump. It was here in 2 days and it took 15 mins to put it back on with only a screwdriver to snap off the retainers and pliers to undo two hoses.

I told my woman that it was fixed and we have lived happily ever after and we played Appliance Repair Man and I was paid very well for the "House Call" if you know what I mean!!!!!
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washer would fill but not run
10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • steve from madison, SD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After reading other comments about lid switch replacement , I knew the front of the control panel would move forward and lift off. Although none of the descriptions mention the steel clips that were also use to hold the cover down. It does take quite a bit of presure to pry these up and loose before panel would move forward. Would recom end putting tape on both washer and screwdriver to protect washer.
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Electrical burning smell washer stoped working
11 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Arthur from Statesville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced motor starting capacitor. Noticed water leak at pump and replaced pump
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Ground prong on power cord was broken
10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RONALD from PORT ORCHARD, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.
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Washer not completing rinse cycle. Broken centrifugal switch
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rudolph from LAUDERHILL, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I disconnect power from wall outlets. Turn off pipes and remove water hoses from machine. Clear machine making room to operate.
I removed two Phillip head screws from behind the console, press down lightly on console then flipped it back. Disconnect the lid switch by releasing the plastic clip. Used a screwdriver to release the 2 met al holding clips (one on each side on top of machine. Ease the case up slightly then pull back gaining access to the centrifugal switch which is mounted to the motor with one Phillip head screw. One end of switch was broken and disconnected. Motor was not keeping up. Discharged capacitor by grounding the terminals with an insulated plyers. Lift the clip on the broken switch then pull the connector off. With new switch in hand, remove each of the 5 wires from the old switch by using a needle nose pliers one by one and connect them to the new switch making sure each one is properly secured in please. Connect the new switch to the motor using the single screw. Secure the connector to switch. Replace case by tilting back about 45 degrees, slide under front frame of machine all the way then down inplace. Use the two metal clips to secure frame to rear panel. Reconnect lid switch. Return machine to usual spot, reconnect water hoses, turn pipes on make sure there are no leaks. Plug back into wall outlet. Washer was tried and all cycles were completed.
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washer would not agitate when lid was closed
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Saint Louis, MO
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The only tricky part was figuring out how to get to the part. There were only two screws that seemed likely candidates to pop off the control panel (on the back at the corners). Fortunately for me the obvious answer was the right one...the panel lifted up and the new part went in - very easy.
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Lid trigger went and fried both plug and connector
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • barbara from MILLVILLE, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Purchased lid trigger elsewhere but got the connector on line here after being told I would need to purchase complete wiring harness to correct. Once lid trigger was in i stripped the three wires that went to lid trigger and pushed thru the back side of the connector. Then I plugged into trigger. Now washer works again. Very easy to do.
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drain hose for washer was cracked and leaking
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • richard from orange, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
This was really easy and the part came in like 2 days. All I needed to do was flipthe washer on its side and remove the old hose...a couple screws and install the new one...it was a perfect match so ...no issue.
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My husband did it. He popped the top control section off by sliding the knife under each side to lift it off.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anne from IRA, MI
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
The switch just snapped out of the holding section and the new part was snapped back into its place. He put the top section back on and it worked! Being a woman not knowing anything about repairing machines, I thought it went very well. I just googled my problem with the washer, it sent me to this site saying what they thought was the pro blem, I live chatted with someone and they confirmed the solution. I ordered the part and it came in 2 days and my husband fixed it. And now I have a working washer again. Thank you for your site. Anne
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washer would walk all over when in the spin cycle
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Bonners Ferry, ID
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I tried to remove the outer console to get to the tub wear pads easier. This proved difficult for me for some reason. So I tipped the machine on its back at about a 45 degree angle. You will see the tripod support holding up the tub. The pads lie in between the bottom of the tub and on top of the tripod support . You won't be able to see the pads since the are on the top of the support, but you will see the two insert tabs of each pad sticking out. There are about 120 degrees apart from each other. I pushed up on the tub and slipped the piece of wood in between the tub and tripod support close to the pad. Taking a screwdriver and hammer I punched out the wear pad insert tabs. You can replace the old pad with the new one by using some force with your hands. Some pop right in and some you need to use a little leverage, maybe with the piece of wood you used to hold up the tub. Be careful not to get the pads greasy, keep clean as possible. Worked great.
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washer wouldn't spin with load, then not at all with rapid clicking sound
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lou from ATLANTIC HLDS, NJ
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Clutch was noticibly worn compared to new part. Direct drive flange had broken, this part should be steel. found a you tube video that was simple to follow. no problems
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Washer would not work in agitate or spin cycle
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • yesenia from apopka, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Coupler is design to break when washer is overloaded or out of balance. Saves the motor from being burned out. Very easy repair. Unhook washer hoses and electrical plug...tip washer on side if there is no bottom to washer instead of removing side panels. Unhook clamps to water pump using flathead screwdriver. Water pump comes off wit hout unhooking either of the two hoses. Remove 2 electrical connections and two clamps from motor using socket and screwdriver. Motor pulls out very easy...make sure you are holding motor so it does not drop onto floor. Remove motor mounting plate with socket. Remove old coupling using stubby flat screwdriver from both motor and transmission shafts. Install new coupling on transmission by placing a large socket onto plastic piece of new coupling and tapping lightly with hammer until flush with shaft. Install rubber piece of coupling...tap new plastic piece onto motor shaft using socket and hammer. Reinstall motor mount. Turn motor shaft so coupling pieces are aligned. Reverse order to reinstall motor and pump. I tilted the tub slightly when reinstalling the motor and pump as it is a tight fit...just be patient during this step.

The last step in this process is to go tell your wife that she in fact is NOT getting the new $2000 front loading washer and dryer set she saw at Lowes because you just fixed her washer for $20 including shipping.

It really is an easy fix...takes longer to unhook and move the washer than to replace part. Thank You Partselect for your excellent website and speedy shipping of product.
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The middle tub would not come out
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jayanti from SNELLVILLE, GA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Sprayed wd40 - limescale - boiling water , NOTHING WORKED after half an hour reapeted spraying and pulling the tub and shaking it back and forth - still nothing
Finally I replaced the center nut loosely than putting a piece of wood on top of it and with me holding the tub slightly high - my wife than whacked it hard several times , I also was turning the tub every whack
When it came out it was full of rust and grime - it would have never come out without what we did
Replacing the the rubber washer was easy - machine works and no more leaking- thank you for your video which really helped to start the job
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loud noise during spin cycle, then not spinning at all
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from CHESHIRE, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Watching videos identified what parts to purchase.
Once identified - WATCH EACH PARTS VIDEO (again).
Lessons learned:
1) better to NOT tilt the washer
2) watch (more than once) and learn from the videos
3) must difficult step was loosening the tub retaining nut without having a spanner wrench (used a hammer and a short / wide blade screwdriver)
4) ended up being the tub support was not sitting properly in the suspension plate
5) cleaned and changed parts while apart
6) running as good as new

Thanks!!
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washer wouldn't go into spin cycle
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jesse from Lester Prairie, MN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
After reading other repair stories I did it like they said. I disconnected all the hoses and drained as much water as I could. The top came apart easily with a regular screwdriver, a 1/2 in drive with extension, and a 14 or 15mm deep socket. The spanner nut came off easiest with several short, quick blows (punch and hammer, countercloc kwise). In my case a good wack seemed to be soaked up by the wash tub springs. Be careful not to chip the tub.

I laid the washer, front down, onto a couple a 2x6's. I supported between the tub and body with small 2x4 scraps. The motor/trans/pump came off easily after disconnection the 2 hoses (towels handy) and wiring. After the 3 screws, and some wiggling, the assembly slid out nicely. The coupler came out after snapping the springs off to remove the pump and motor. A 1/4 nut driver and regular screwdriver assisted. Watch how the pump comes off. You might want to mark its orientation with a marker or something. Make sure you get the new coupler on all the way with some taps on the CENTER where the shaft is. Reassemble in the reverse order. You'll know why I suggested marking the water pump.

Watch the order/orientation of the springs, clips, and washer. The clips came off with a screwdriver and pliers. It's always nice to have a rag on them when removing, they like to shoot off and land in the spot that's hardest to find, like under the dryer. My clutch was assembled with the right spring and slid right on. Don't forget about the plastic washer, snap it in good. The plastic piece still on the washer was simple. I opened up a nose pliers and put it on each side of the clip then gave it a hit. It came off with minimal effort and didn't spin on the shaft like pushing on one side with a screwdriver.

During reassembly I put a very light film of grease on the shaft. That washer with the tabs gave me trouble at first. I put a good film of grease on the side with the tabs to hold it in place, with the tabs down, in the clip. Otherwise when sliding the assembly back together it comes loose and you won't get the motor/trans all the way in. Then it all has to come back out and you'll wonder what the heck is keeping the transmission from seating in all the way. You might even get it all together, figuring the motor or tub has to turn to get it to seat right. You may even try running a no clothes load and get stuck with a tub full of water. Ask me how I know.

Reverse everything to reassemble. Make sure you get the springs tight that hold the hoses on. I was worried about over tightening the plastic nut with a 1/2 drive. Run no-clothes load, large, hot with soap. I think tipping it over loosened some stuff that was stuck in between the tub and basket. No, it wasn't grease from the shaft, light film. Anyway, I'll waste a washer full of hot soapy water to avoid the, "Um..what's this on my new shirt".

I didn't mean for this to be so long winded, but I was leary about tackling this job at first. I know my way around the garage/cars, but never tried appliances before. I pictured it'd be apart for weeks and I'd have to call a repair man. Then the "I told you so" look would come. You all know what I mean. I just want to cover as much as possible and encourage others while having them avoid any troubles.
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All Instructions for the TAWB600PQ2
121 - 135 of 1266