ST20 - Instructions

Bought a new
capacitor.

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.

First I removed the clamp, pulled out the part, and diconnected the two wires on the side and a small screw. Reconnected the new part with the small screw, connected the wires and plugged the part back to the side of the motor. Whaa La, Done.

I removed the back cover and removed the clip holding the compressor- run capacitor and start relay. I replaced these 2 components and clean the dust from the frig., and from the bottom of the floor. I replaced the back cover ; Loss about $300 worth of meat when when the frig. failed. Then I thought that, during these turbulent times, there are many which don't have a refrigerator or any meat to place in it, The refrigerator is "running" normal again.

Opened mailer and bag and place the drain plug into the drain. fit perfectly. In fact it is better than the one lost since the original needed a screwdriver or tool to remove the plug. This one has a flang or finger turner on it so that it can be removed. Also, does not interfere with items in bottom of freezer.

I ordered the part two weeks ago and it still hasn’t arrived. Earlier delivery was what was stated. Not happy. Don’t understand the issue.

Unplugged the freezer. Located the Run Capacitor (next to the compressor). Removed the wire holding bracket, removed the Run Capacitor from the Start Relay. Installed the NEW Capacitor, re-installed the holding bracket. Plugged the unit in, looking at the display for the proper start-up sequence data. All is good - freezer operating for another 10+ yrs. NOTE: When removing the Run Capacitor, beware the COMPRESSOR could be HOT to the touch.

Defrosted freezer, hose broke due to dry-rot. Used towels to let water drain into pan. Now with the plug minimal frost build-up. No ice at all. Now if I could get a new hose to drain the water that would be great.

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.

Ordered the Capacitor and the Thermostat Control. Parts were received in a matter of a few days, easy to install, but did not fix the problem. Had to call a repairman to fix the problem (compressor relay - this part not available to order for this model number with Parts Select). Will continue to use Parts Select in the future for other parts, but not happy that the actual part I needed was not available - had to use other methods.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

I found this unit by the side of the road. One power input terminal was loose. Inside it was broken. Replacement was to remove the screws, pull out the wire, and cut the wire next to the terminal. I was able to strip the wire and crimp it in the terminal. I then soldered both terminals for a good connection.

I watched the videos (they really help) and followed the steps. Everything went smooth with no surprises