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SR520SW-P1183001WW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the SR520SW-P1183001WW
1 - 15 of 109

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Lights inside refrigerator not working
138 of 259 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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Door would not close
79 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russ from Asheville, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After emptying the refrig. door, I unscrewed the plate on the top of the refrigerator that covered the door bolts. Then off with the three bolts. I removed the door by lifting it up a few inches. The two parts of the door cam were easily removed and replaced with the new part. BEFORE REPLACING the door spread vasoline on both cam parts.
(Not after as I did. The second time you do any of these repairs go SO much better :o)
After putting the door back on, adjust the tension of the screws holding the door in place if needed to align the door on the cams so that it shuts completely. Failure to do this will require taking the top off the door again. (see comment above on "... second time...")
If all is properly aligned, the door should swing completely shut.
Even with the mistakes that required removing the door to lubricate the cams, and removing it AGAIN to readjust the screws on the top to properly align the door on the cams, this was a twenty minute job. My wife and I were still speaking to one another at the end of it- a sure sign of an easy repair.
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Light Switch broke
48 of 78 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James Richard from St. Cloud, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.
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Door cam worn out
27 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • william from avon, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
remove top plastic cover / phillips screw driver
remove top door bracket / 5/15" socket
lift off door
remove pieces of old cam / phillips screw driver
replace cam/ phillips screw driver
replace door
replace top bracket / 5/16" socket
check alignment
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The light switch on the refridgerator broke - no light.
36 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Albany, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!
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Bottom freezer door hinge broke
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Blue Springs, MO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the plastic cover from the top hinge and loosened the screws. The magnet seal kept the door in place so I removed the top hinge and tried to lift the door off the bottom hinge but the water line wouldn't let it go. Since I don't use the water feature, I just cut the water line and lifted the door off. That's when I discovered the hinge pin was actually broken off, not just the cam. I went ahead and replaced the cam kit and put it temporarily back together, got right back on line and ordered the bottom hinge. The service was again very fast and in a couple of days I received the bottom hinge, repeated the whole process again and this time replaced the bottom hinge assembly, put some petrolium jelly on the cam kit and now it works smooth and perfect.
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Part of cam broke off bottom of fridg. door & it quit closing automatically
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Elaine from Milton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Took longer to move food from door to inside fridge & take grandkids' artwork off door, & then put it all back than it did to replace cam.
1. Used phillips head to undo 1 screw holding cover over top bracket; lifted off cover.
2. No need to have someone hold door while you remove top bracket; magnets in door gasket will hold it tight to fridge. Used socket to remove 3 screws in top bracket & lifted bracket up off top of door.
3. Door's not heavy. I stood on a sturdy chair to get better leverage. Opened the door enough to break the magnetic seal & llfted it up off bottom bracket. I moved it over just enough to get to the cam, rested the bottom of the door on the floor, & leaned it up against the open front of the fridge to help preserve chilled food.
4. Removed the 1 screw holding in the bad cam to the bottom bracket (uses smaller socket than screws on top bracket).
5. I checked part that goes up inside bottom of door & it was fine, so did not replace it.
6. Trickiest part: putting the door back on. I put a hand mirror on floor by the right corner & facing up so I could see the underpart of the door as I lifted it eased it down on the right place.
7. Closed door, made sure it was straight, replaced top hinge & cover, food, & artwork.
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light inside fridge was flickering and clicking
20 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • bill from escondido, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
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Lower RH door hinge was making a snapping noise because door closure cam screw backed out and damaged cam by egg-shaping hole.
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from Glenview, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed door. Removed old cam closure assembly. Noticed that there was almost nothing inside the door for screw to screw into(only styrofoam insulation), which is why original screw backed out. Bad design. Got longer screw at bigger diameter. Pushed high strength glue into hole, on screw threads, and underneath screw head. Assembled. Cro ssed fingers. About three weeks have passed and so far, so good.
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There was no light on in refrig area
12 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lori from Chuluota, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
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Replaced door cam closer
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Cumming, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Replaced the part--
Door snaps loudly everytime it's opened or closed.
Correct replacement part and lubed with vaseline,
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light not working in fridge
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from East Meadow, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!
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Replaced 1 broken door cam set
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from Garden Grove, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
As the prior stories mentioned, this was a fairly easy fix to a nagging problem. Heck, we almost bought a new refer over this, cuz the door would keep popping open.

Needed a screwdriver, and a 5/16" nut driver (mounted in elec. drill). Have two people for this one! Emptying the door would help out tons too. ('course, I didn't do that!)

With the door closed, remove the plastic cover on top by removing 1 phyllips screw. Then, using drill mounted 5/16" nut driver, remove 3 hinge screws. Remove hing by lifting up. Now, carefully open and remove the door. Here is where the 2nd person comes in. There are 2-3 1/4" screws (Must use a 1/4' NUT DRIVER, SOCKET OR MAGNETIC BIT HOLDER) on the bottom of the door to remove the broken plastic cam. Also, you must remove the bad cam from the bottom hinge using I believe the 1/4" nut driver.

Finally , one person lift the door while the other kneels on the floor to help giude the door back onto the bottom hing pin. Close the door, ensuring that the top of the doors are even, and secure the 3 top hinge screws. UR done!

Greg
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All three lights are not working...lights are off but refrigerator still cooling. Also, the control box not lit up to show the temparture for freezer and refrigerator
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Antonio from San Antonio, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.
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The Switch Broke...Absolutely Fell Apart.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Duncan from Metairie, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid
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All Instructions for the SR520SW-P1183001WW
1 - 15 of 109