SF369LEPS3 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed bottom panel. Unscrewed igniter. Replaced igniter. Reinstalled panel. Started oven before replacing panel. Easy install.

On the back of the range was a little plastic bag with the range document. In this document was instructions on how to check out the electronic controls, a drawing of the electrical wiring and a digram of the gas line part of the range. First I did the electronic part and it check fine. Following that the instruction was to check out the ... Read more solenoid coils for the bake and broil valve. I believe the wires were blue, red and orange(it tells on the wiring diagram). It called for 216 ohms on each coil. When I unpluged the plug from the circuit board on the upper right backside of control panel I checked the resistance for the two coils. One side had 198 ohms and the other coil had 0 ohms. The instruction said that if either coil didn't measure 216 ohms or close to that value the valve would not work. So, I wrote down the Model number. Next I checked the gas valve for numbers, wrote down all that was on the valve because I didn't know which one was the part number for the valve. Went on line to the Whirlpool site, once in the Whirlpool site I found out they have a diagram of parts for different appliances, pulled up the model I was looking for, found the valve( under the valve part, the number was different than the one I had, but the information said it would fit the model of appliance I have) order the part. In a few days the part arrived. I turn the gas off, unplugged the electric. I removed the gas lines, had just a bit of a problem with the short gas line going to the burner for the oven, when the line was out I unplugged the control wires. Nake sure you write down how thw wires are on the valve before unplugging. There is an adaptor on the valve to the main gas line. You need to take this off and put on the new valve. This is where you need the pipe cement. Stay back from the end of the adaptor that goes into the valve one or two threads with the pipe cement. you do not want to get any inside of the valve. Put the adaptor on, tighten, plug in the control wires, replace the valve on the stove, connect the gas lines, put all the gas lines on before you tighten them. Turn on the gas. Check lines with soapy water for gas leaks. Plug in the electric, check it out. Don't forget to put the instruction back in their little plastic package and I also put a copy of the order I had for the new valve just in case I need it in the furture.

removed the worn out roller...inserted the new roller....tightened the nut...it was finished...this was without a doubt the most pleasent repair from start to finish..only took 3 days from the time i orderded the part to completing the repair...i would advise anyone to use " partselect.com" without hesitation

since it was the control knob, all I had to do was to push it right onto the stem, and it was finished. Using the web site to find the correct item was very easy.

Removed the two screws holding the remaining pieces of the old handle - screwed in the new handle.

Simply removed three screws that held the door trim in place. Once the screws are removed be carefull because the front door glass is held in place by the bottom door trim. Otherwise an extremely easy repair.

I have removed this piece once before and painted it,
but it is difficult to prepare surface.

I tried to replace the part without removing the door
but had difficulty getting the screws to line up.

So, I took the door off. Forgot that you are supposed to jam
the spring hinges in the open position be ... Read more fore you remove the door. Manual describes how to do this but picture is not very helpful. So I made two wooden dowels about 3/8" in dia by about 3/4" long. Opened the hinge with a screwdriver and jammed the dowels in place.

Door Trim went on easily and the oven door went back on quickly.

Surprised they don't make this trim piece with rust proof material.

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

Remove 2 screws holding oven bottom in place.Lift out the plate and replace with new plate. The hardest part of the replacement was lining up the screw holes. By the way i have never received such great service from any internet company as Part Select. I ordered the part on a Monday and the part was at my home the NEXT DAY and installed t ... Read more hat evening.

Bought new igniter.
Pulled stove from wall and turned off gas and disconnected power cord.
Removed oven racks.
Removed oven floor.
Removed heat shield/dissipater thing.
Removed 2 screws holding igniter to gas burner tube.
Disconnected the wire (this was harder than expected because igniter had only a few inch ... Read more es slack in the wires), took off back to try to find better access to wires, no help there, door was not easily removable so difficult to reach in with 2 hands to pull wires apart, eventually I got it.
Connected new wires.
Replaced igniter to feeder tube with 2 screws.
Plugged back in, turned gas back on and tested.
Reassembled heat shield thing, oven floor, racks.
Done.

Ordered both parts using the excellent breakdown illustrations of the door. Received the parts along with video instructions on how to repair.

Replaced broken knobs. No tools needed.

Remove three screws, slid old trim piece off door. Slid new trim in place. Used ice pick to align screw holes and replaced screws. Total time about 15 minutes. Tip: used a bead of silicone sealer on the new trim strip to prevent moisture from causing new strip to rust.

Remove;
Bottom drawer- pull open and lift up slightly when fully open then pull the drawer the rest of the way out.
Unplug ignitor terminal- there is a small tang inside the terminal end that needed pressed out of the small hole of the ignitor, with a pick.
Oven racks.
Oven bottom- 2 long phillips screws at the b ... Read more ack. lift the back up 1st then the front comes up and out.
Burner diffuser- 2 small phlilips at front (they only prevent the diffuser from sliding, they don't screw into anything). slide diffuser forward out of the notch then lift the front up. pull rear tabs out of the notches to completely remove.
Ignitor- two 8mm (5/16) bolts holding ignitor to burner. pull ignitor out of guide holes.
Reverse to install new ignitor.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model