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RU384C2 General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the RU384C2
16 - 30 of 55

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Terminal block wire had burned out
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from FOUNTAIN, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Unplugged the range. Opened the range top, unscrewed the old block and cut the wires back. New mount did not match the range top. Removed the old mount from the old terminal block and removed the new mount from the new terminal block and inserted the new block in the old mount. Spliced the wires with the provided wire nuts, protected the splice with the provided heat shrink tubing and installed the burner in the new terminal block. Reinstalled the power cord and tested the burner.
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Knob/switch would not turn right front burner on at all!
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from West Liberty, KY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enoug h slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!
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Needed new drip pans
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • maxine from Los Angeles, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed the old drip pans and put the new ones in.
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Halogen element staying on
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Arthur from Indian Harbour Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.
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Esisting trim ring and drip pan severly corroded and stained.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from Plantsville, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Order special parts from PartSelect. Electric Burner was rare 3 level 4,6 8 inch selectable. Raise burner unit on hinge. Place drip pan, then trim ring under burner. Lower burner.
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no power going to burner when switch is on, switch bad
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Woolwich Twp., NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My kn ob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.
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Burner only worked on High and very low temperature setting.
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Duvall, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.
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terminals was burned
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • alicia from harrison, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
i removed it and installed the new ones.
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Switch - and the connection wire to the burner
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • andrew from langdon, ND
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch ) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.
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Burner not heating properly
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Kokomo, IN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and re move the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.
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The control knob stem broke off when I moved the stove.
3 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Harvard, MA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters do n't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.
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My heating element will not work
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Guilford, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I turned the power off to the stove (very important). then I unplugged the heating element from the terminal. I then unscrewed the terminal from the range top and pulled the terminal through to expose enough wire to do the job. I then proceeded to cut one wire from the old terminal and twist the new wire onto the wire that goes to the swi tch. Then I capped it off with the electric cap that came with the new terminal. then I covered the exposed wires with the sleeve that came with new terminal. Then I did the same exact thing for the second wire. After that was all done I put everything back together and turned the power back on.
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Range element working intermittently then failing completely
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Richmond, VT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove the element and pan. Unscrew the bracket holding the old terminal. The terminal has adequate wire to pull out. Found area where insulation wasn't brittle. Cut old wires and stripped them to expose 1/2 inch of wire. Attached wires from new terminal with wire nuts. Placed heat-shrink tubing over each assembly and shrank it with a heat gun. Retained the bracket from the old terminal, since it looked like it would hold the terminal assembly a bit more firmly than the new bracket. Reassembled in reverse order. Presto -- once again disappointing my wife in her desire for new appliances!
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replace drip pan
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wendy from Jefferson, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Could not find the right pan locally. This was the right one! Fast shipping also.
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Rusted drip bowls on stove
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Kinston, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced old drip bowls with the new ones. Very simple, no tools required.
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All Instructions for the RU384C2
16 - 30 of 55